OK ELECTRICAL WIZARDS

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman
Dec 26, 2006
0
10
49
Thomasville, ga
Let me start off by explaining the situation. i purchased this car a few weeks back. it is a 1990 ssp coupe and the alternator is wired funny and there is a wells box on it. and what appears to be the (not sure if this is correct) a map sensor off of a speed density car. I had some issues getting it running. once runing it was a miss or hit kind of thing so i decided to do a little fixing. and here is what i came up with.


First question. Why is this on my car and how do i get it off. im includinh pictures of where the wires coming to it are from and where the wires are going.

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These are the only wires that are feeding into the box. The plug on the other end attaches to the back of the alternator.

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This is the recieving end of the plug that attaches to the alternator.

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And here is a picture of the only wires that leave the wells box. they connect to wires that are spliced into my head lights.

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and here is a picture of the back of the alternator. why isnt is wired and setup up for the plug in connectors like my 1989 gt?

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This next picture is of what appears to be a power supply wire (yes its getting replaced) that connects to the solenoid.

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Here is where the power supply wire connects to the starter solenoid.

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and last but not least. isnt this the sensor for speed density cars? should i get one for a mass air car or can i run this one? any other mass air car i look at has a little button where the vacum line is.

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Well guys that about sums it up. if you can tell me what to do about these minor issues it would be much appreciated. I plan on replacing all of those corode and damaged wires also. Im just baffled here. my 89gt alternator has a plug in style harness for it. and has a bunch of wires going in ti and this car only has 3 wires and a ground. Well you have my problems, my picturs and my thoughts on this. if you need anything else let me know.
 
I do not profess to be an electrical wizard, but dude, what a mess.
I would get a new (newer) 1 wire alternator and get rid of all that crap that is associated with your current alternator. The last picture is of your BAP/MAP sensor as you stated. If it is a mass air car, there shouldn't be a vacuum hose connected to the sensor at all (not too familiar with speed density, though) as it will throw off the calibration of the computer. That sensor is why you can drive your car from the bottom to the top of the Rocky Mtns and not have to adjust anything. Add manifold vacuum to the sensor.....well you get the point. Were it me, I would start shopping for harnesses to get you back up and running the right way. Obviously the person that had that car before you was somewhat of a hacker.........
 
That is an alternator from a 1985 (carbed mustang). I just picked a new one up identical to it yesterday. Isn't your rig fuel injected? Wrong alternator from what I can tell. The 1987 alternator I turned in was wired totally different. (Did EFI to Carb swap). An EFI one will have two plugs on it instead with the voltage regulator mounted on the housing itself. That wells box is an external voltage regulator and it's not even wired up right.
 
that is a mess. the alternator is an older model - at least upgrade to the 3G Ford alternator. Solder all your splices and use shrink wrap over the solder splices. That main charging cable is so bad I'm surprised the battery wull charge. Put a new connector on and solder it too - insulate with shrink wrap.

If the car is mass air, just pull the vacuum hose off and run it. If it's still SD, make sure that hose goes to the intake on a DEDICATED vacuum line (it could share the line to the fuel pressure regulator if needed).
 
If I remember correctly, the SSP equipped Mustangs had a 100 amp externally regulated alternator.

For a 3G conversion, here's the diagram.

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Can i just get a mass air map sensor? or is unplugging that one pretty nuch the same thing? and as for the wells box.. how is it supposed to be wired up? and how and why is it on my car? and why is it connected to the headlights? can i remove it? if not can someone tell mt how to wire it up right? i really want to clean this mess up. and does the 3g have the same wiring priciples or does it require a harness and connector like my 89gt
 
so i should leave it and re run all the wires and clean up the mess and not worry about removing it? and where does the wire circled in red in the above pic go to on my car? my current alternator as seen in above pics only has one big wire and the two that run into the wells box.
 
I learn something everyday - wonder why Ford did that? Is that a better setup for some reason? Maybe at the time that was the only way to get 100A unit in the car...........

The cop cars suck up the electricity with the radio, extra lights, computer and other stuff and needed a bigger alternator. It probably puts out lots of power at idle speeds, since the cop cars spend a considerable amount of time idling.

The alternator probably came from a truck or other heavy duty vehicle in Ford's inventory at that time. Use the parts from your current manufacturing inventory and save some $$ by not needing to make a limited number of special units.
 
The cop cars suck up the electricity with the radio, extra lights, computer and other stuff and needed a bigger alternator. It probably puts out lots of power at idle speeds, since the cop cars spend a considerable amount of time idling.

The alternator probably came from a truck or other heavy duty vehicle in Ford's inventory at that time. Use the parts from your current manufacturing inventory and save some $$ by not needing to make a limited number of special units.

The alternator is fine. its the wells box and its wiring that is concerning me? should i just leave it on and clean up the wires or should i try and remove it?
 
That is an alternator from a 1985 (carbed mustang). I just picked a new one up identical to it yesterday. Isn't your rig fuel injected? Wrong alternator from what I can tell. The 1987 alternator I turned in was wired totally different. (Did EFI to Carb swap). An EFI one will have two plugs on it instead with the voltage regulator mounted on the housing itself. That wells box is an external voltage regulator and it's not even wired up right.
 
the yllow/white wire on the Stang goes to the battery through a fusible link to supply 12v to the regultor and the Green/Red wire turns the regulator on in the stock Stang alternator and gets its power from the dash "charge indicator" light. Sounds like they are picking up 12v from the headlight system?