Ok Time To Upgrade Brakes on the 91 gt -Any suggestions?

Ok. so heres what i was thinking.
MM brake upgrade kit front and rear.( SS brake lines etc)

Now for the rotors.... NOT to spendy.. but looks better then stock.. whats your experience with slotted and/or cross drilled? I was thinking Power Slots or Pacifica( since we distribute them of course...) staying with 4-lug. Need to do so soon car shakes... like a poloroid picture... :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

Misha..


HEY CAR SHOW FATHERS DAY HERE IN VANCOUVER- PIPED PIE PIZZA ( i think thats what its called)
 
I put cross-drilled slotted rotors on my 93 about 40,000 miles ago and love them. No cracking at all and they got rid of the horrible fade that Fox bodies have under heavy braking. Highly recommended.
 
The problems that people were having with cross drilled rotors were when they first came out. Companies just drilled the rotors to dissipate heat, they did not calculate the procedure. Cross drilled/ slotted rotors currently are the way to go because it maintains an extremely strong rotor and cools extremely well. If ytou are seriously concerned with wear thn you can have them cryogenically treated it rearranges the moleculs in the metal by lining up the atoms and forming a "super strong" metal.

Good luck.

Oh by the way why four lug? Just curious.
 
Nothing beats the look of a sets of Cross Drill Rotors on the front and back of your Mustang,I won't going into if its is worth it or no,since most of us don't road race our car or even know how to set it up for roadracing anyway.
A rear disc setup will be night and day on our pre 94' Mustang,you could almost say goodbye to brake fades in most driving conditions.

Check out the EradiSpeed Front Rotor from Baer Racing. It does looks good even standing still.

K.
 
Hey misha, just do the five lug, I will help u. I did mine and it is hella cheap and looks cool. And for the rotors I got the slotted rotors and had no problems with them. But I heard cross drilled ones can crack after time. Besides why do u wnat to do a bigger brake conv. the car isn't even fast enough to need brakes. LOL
 
Hey Misha,

If you want to stay 4 lug, imho I would go with slotted but not cross drilled.
You can get the ones that are titanium-nitride coated (its kinda gold) for the extra bling effect if you like....

If you do go drilled make sure (imho) to get the ones that have a radius to break the edge on the hole. Not a countersink, not a chamfer, not a..... a radius is whats desired. The gradual progression from one plane to the other will disipate the heat evenly, where the countersink, etc.. typically has a hot spot along the edge that can become superheated durring hard breaking, which can lead to thermal fracture and stress cracking, etc... This is a worst case kinda thing, most normal drivers would NEVER push their car hard enough to worry about it, but if you do track days, or lotts of hard drag strip braking, it might be a problem.

If you are willing to go 5 lug, get everything from the spindles out on any 94-98 cobra and bolt it up. No fus, no mus.... you can go to a cobra brake booster too for more improved performance (reccomended).
You can eye-ball mine if you like....

Dave-
 
FMS has a kit that has everything to change over to a 5 lug disc kit and it is the same brakes that was put on the 93 Cobra R/94 cobra part # M-2300-k has 13" front and 11.65" rear that would put some stop to the mustang
 
First question I have is what is the budget? Lots of great ideas here but most can be very expensive. I have many laps around Pacific Raceways and have upgraded my brakes to handle the high speed for cheap. As fot the 5 lugs, there are many of us racing out there with 4 lugs without problems, if you are going to buy wheels anyway then go for the 5 lug. My setup uses the SVO/ Lincoln 73mm caliper on slotted rotors and on the rear I bought the aftermarket brackets to use the Cadillac rear calipers with built in parking brake and Thunderbird Turbo Coupe rotors, nice and cheap-works great.

Dan
 
Bottlefed83 said:
Hey misha, just do the five lug, I will help u. I did mine and it is hella cheap and looks cool. And for the rotors I got the slotted rotors and had no problems with them. But I heard cross drilled ones can crack after time. Besides why do u wnat to do a bigger brake conv. the car isn't even fast enough to need brakes. LOL

Yeah, slotted rotors dont crack either:

crackedpowerslot.jpg


Do it for looks on your stock rotors. On the FMS M2300K kit with the 13" front brakes, you can lose 1 pound over the stock solid rotors with the FMS S&D units. Less unsprung mass!

Looks like everyone is using my page, use the correct redirection URL incase I move it:

http://svo73mm.cjb.net
 
Matt90GT said:
Yeah, slotted rotors dont crack either:

crackedpowerslot.jpg


Do it for looks on your stock rotors. On the FMS M2300K kit with the 13" front brakes, you can lose 1 pound over the stock solid rotors with the FMS S&D units. Less unsprung mass!

Looks like everyone is using my page, use the correct redirection URL incase I move it:

http://svo73mm.cjb.net
dude that sucks, u ar the first person I saw that it happened to, mine haven't done it yet and I've had them for a while. u ar probably right they are mostly for looks, but I will still get them because stock ones look like crap and they will crack also, especially when ur hard on the brakes.

later, steve
 
Any good rotor wont have the slots all the way to the edge, as for S&D rotors having less weight, well that means that they wont dissapate heat as better and have less surface area. Any rotor can crack, just depends on how hard are you on the brakes!!!
CrevicedBrembo.jpg


There's some good reading about brakes on corner-carvers.com