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Okay turbo people, chime in on this!

  • Thread starter Thread starter DNA DOA
  • Start date Start date Jul 20, 2007
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fiveohwblow

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Jul 21, 2005
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Jul 27, 2007
#21
  • Jul 27, 2007
  • #21
VR4 said:
taper in a small block ford?
Click to expand...

I also had the same question. I have read time and time again these things were machines hence why they last hundreds of thousands... In fact a Chevy dominated well read mag ran an article on them being the most venerable engine to ever come down a mass production line, noting that there was virtually no signs of wear and absolutely no taper after 100k...
 

VR4

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Mar 1, 2007
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Jul 27, 2007
#22
  • Jul 27, 2007
  • #22
fiveohwblow said:
I also had the same question. I have read time and time again these things were machines hence why they last hundreds of thousands... In fact a Chevy dominated well read mag ran an article on them being the most venerable engine to ever come down a mass production line, noting that there was virtually no signs of wear and absolutely no taper after 100k...
Click to expand...



ford blocks have a higher nickel content so they are much less prone to taper/ridge forming. ever see the crosshatch still on the walls of a 150k mile 302? wont see that in a chevy.


SBCs are reletavely soft.
 
M

MyFordsFly

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Oct 29, 2001
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Jul 27, 2007
#23
  • Jul 27, 2007
  • #23
VR4 said:
ford blocks have a higher nickel content so they are much less prone to taper/ridge forming. ever see the crosshatch still on the walls of a 150k mile 302? wont see that in a chevy.


SBCs are reletavely soft.
Click to expand...

Well although I must admit the late model small block ford isnt as prone to cylinder wall wear as alot of engines especially the older ones. But this has little to do with the actual block material. Its the thin low tension metric piston rings thats primarily responsible. If the 5.0 had so much nickel in it, it wouldnt want to split in half the way it does above 500 hp.

I have seen plenty of over 100k mile 5.0 blocks with awesome looking bores and very little ridge. I have also seen my fair share of them with a decent ridge and enough taper to necessitate an overbore and new pistons for proper clearances.

At 234k miles its a fair bet joey's block is gonna need to be bored.
 
S

Stangler

A.K.A. Mr. Hankey
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Dec 20, 2001
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Jul 30, 2007
#24
  • Jul 30, 2007
  • #24
11.04 @ 124 with a 1.73 60ft and 7.13 @ 100 in the 1/8. That is all....


Nate

p.s. Drove it there, 6 passes in the 11's, drove it home(10miles both ways)
 
M

MyFordsFly

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Oct 29, 2001
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Jul 30, 2007
#25
  • Jul 30, 2007
  • #25
Stangler said:
11.04 @ 124 with a 1.73 60ft and 7.13 @ 100 in the 1/8. That is all....


Nate

p.s. Drove it there, 6 passes in the 11's, drove it home(10miles both ways)
Click to expand...

Very nice!!!
 

WaterPog

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Mar 12, 2001
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Jul 30, 2007
#26
  • Jul 30, 2007
  • #26
so that's what, 8 passes total on the car? 3200lbs, 235/60-15 M/T drag radials, and <$4000 total cash car included?

 

Joey5.0

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Jul 30, 2007
#27
  • Jul 30, 2007
  • #27
Stangler said:
11.04 @ 124 with a 1.73 60ft and 7.13 @ 100 in the 1/8. That is all....


Nate

p.s. Drove it there, 6 passes in the 11's, drove it home(10miles both ways)
Click to expand...

What car and Mods?
 
S

Stangler

A.K.A. Mr. Hankey
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Jul 31, 2007
#28
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #28
Stock block 88 5.0, stock heads(cleaned up) stock valves, comp beehive springs, comp rockers, TrickFlow stage 1 cam, Truck EFI lower intake/custom upper, 42lbs inj, stock TB, PT67DBB turbo, 3 1/2 downpipe, 3 1/2 Borla XR-1, bbk shorties flipped to face forward, 2 1/2 crossover pipe, twin 38mm Tial sport wastegates, 3" alum cold side pipe, 4"x12"x30" air to air, junkyard C-4 with rev man valve body-pro shift servo-deep pan, 3.08 gears, Mega Squirt DFI, strange 10way adj shocks and struts, upr rear kit, 3200lbs w/me on MT 235/60's,...etc...

Nate
 
S

Stangler

A.K.A. Mr. Hankey
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Jul 31, 2007
#29
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #29
WaterPog said:
so that's what, 8 passes total on the car? 3200lbs, 235/60-15 M/T drag radials, and <$4000 total cash car included?

Click to expand...

About 6-8K sounds right
 

Joey5.0

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Jul 31, 2007
#30
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #30
Very Nice. Stock rods, Pistons,Crank, Bore, Stroke Bolts etc?
 
S

Stangler

A.K.A. Mr. Hankey
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Dec 20, 2001
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#31
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #31
Joey5.0 said:
Very Nice. Stock rods, Pistons,Crank, Bore, Stroke Bolts etc?
Click to expand...

yep, I did pull it apart and put in new bearings, and oil pump, but junkyard style. No machining. It has 35-40psi oil at idle, and over 65 reving. Comp test shows cyl 1-4 in the 170's, and 5-8 between 165-175.

Nate
 

Joey5.0

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#32
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #32
So i suppose that is a 9:5:1 Compression Motor?

What kind of power and boost are you running Sorry for all the questions. If you would like to move to Pm's i am cool with that.

Joey
 
S

Stangler

A.K.A. Mr. Hankey
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#33
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #33
Never had it on a dyno, don't know how much power it's making. I've got a 8lbs spring in the wastegate.

Nate
 

Joey5.0

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#34
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #34
9:5:1?

Crazy Track times man.
 
S

Stangler

A.K.A. Mr. Hankey
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#35
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #35
The books I've read say 9.1 but who knows....
 
M

MyFordsFly

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Oct 29, 2001
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Jul 31, 2007
#36
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #36
Joey5.0 said:
9:5:1?

Crazy Track times man.
Click to expand...

Joey go over to the Corrals drag section and check out the "how fast on a stock block" thread. People have gone pretty damn fast with a stock block. Hell my best trap with a completely stock long block (heads had never been off) was 126, thats with an over 3400 lbs race weight.

And Nate is correct, its closer to 9:1 with the 64cc nominal chambers.

BTW Nate, Im even more impressed now that I know you were on 235s.
 

Joey5.0

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#37
  • Jul 31, 2007
  • #37
So if i went with 9:1 Probe pistons, and stock ported e7's would the CR still remain at 9:1?
 
M

MyFordsFly

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Oct 29, 2001
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Aug 1, 2007
#38
  • Aug 1, 2007
  • #38
Joey5.0 said:
So if i went with 9:1 Probe pistons, and stock ported e7's would the CR still remain at 9:1?
Click to expand...

What you can do is just figure out how big your chambers are, pick out what head gaskets your gonna use and give the piston company a call and they will get you in the right direction.
 

Joey5.0

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#39
  • Aug 1, 2007
  • #39
So with a powermaster T-70 i should run a .68 ar on the stock block? I would rather the turbo spool faster, then have more top end. I plan on running 13psi MAX.
 

WaterPog

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Aug 1, 2007
#40
  • Aug 1, 2007
  • #40
I'd do the small housing with a stick and probably the big one with an auto, it's much easier to get an auto to spool.

don't get hung up on the boost number, just set yourself a WHP limit and stick to it. It doesn't really matter if it takes you 5psi or 15psi of boost to get there the damage will be the same.
 
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