One header tube glowing?

I honeslty dont think this has to do with power/signal wiring to the injector. Maybe the plug wire is shorting out/getting interference, leaving unburnt fuel, and then the plug ends up igniting twice as much or maybe even more fuel once it finally does fire. (something with the firing)

Unless your injector is stuck open which is also ruled out since you swapped them around.

like 2000 said. this happens and lasts for a while, with really no other issues. I really think it is rich. I think if it was lean you would also be dealing with outher issues.
 
Ok the injectors are new.i checked my plug gap at it is at.55. I do have a crane hi-6 ignition and coil. Also i've tried three different plug wires,because the header gets so hot it kind of melts the boots. I have double checked my rockers and they should be ok. If my valves were staying open would'nt my compression be down on that cylinder? I did get a bad dist. cap from the parts store,and i returned it for this one. Could the #3 terminal be bad on this one? Might try to switch that out,just to rule it out. Ahh the sweetness of dropping $4500 in you car and not being able to drive it:shrug: Thanks guys.
 
emagdnim said:
Lean = engine gets hotter , rich = headers get extremely hot and red because the gas burns in the header tube causing the heat.. if your really lean it can also turn the headers hot as well due to the extra heat in the cylinder but most glowing red headers/midpipes are from a rich condition. If you dont believe me retard your timing so the spark goes off when the piston is on the downstroke it causes the gas to burn in the header making them extremely hot!

Yea I wasn't making a diagnosis on his condition, just pointing out that most of the time, lean creates more heat (I was referring to the engine, which is kind of irrelevant in this situation, lol).
 
Well still haven't figured this out yet. I did find out that if i turn the timming up to about 17* it quits glowing completly and you can actually put your hand close to it, like the other tubes. Bad part is the car will barely start like this. I had a guy at the parts house tell me tonight to turn my fuel pressure down to around 30 or 33lbs. It's at about 38 to 40lbs when it's capped off now. Might try this in the morning to see if this helps.
 
the more my timing is turned down, the more my cats glow. is the tubing on the #3 header go up and then down and back? maybe fuel is getting stuck in their... i have my timing at 14 degrees right now, i just fixed my idle problems so im turning it back up to 18 degrees. try more timing, but be carefull not to try to much.
 
more timing requires more fuel. if your talking about cold start ups, dont worry... i have that same problem to. car runs like crap when first fired up. it will even out when she gets warm. dont turn that fuel pressure down. good luck
 
Check your damper to be sure the timing mark is not spun around.

The black and white 10 pin connectors have been the subject of several TSB's--check for corrosion at those connections.

Advancing timing is burning more fuel in the cylinder instead of in the pipe--but if the timing mark isn't true to TDC what you THINK is 18 may really be less if the damper is bad or spun. Verify your TDC mark.

Good Luck!