• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Opinions on polyurethane bushings?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SadbutTrue
  • Start date Start date Mar 11, 2008

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Mar 11, 2008
#1
  • Mar 11, 2008
  • #1
Jon @ Opentracker recommended I only get poly for the coil spring insulators, sway bar bushings, and rear leaf spring shackles. Obviously he knows his stuff but I figured I'd ask around to see what the consensus was.

Should I go pretty much full poly on the front (outside the strut rod bushing) or just limit it to those that Jon mentioned? Or some combo thereof? Thanks
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Mar 11, 2008
#2
  • Mar 11, 2008
  • #2
john knows his stuff so i would go with his recommendations. the problem with most poly bushings is that they are too stiff. i would stay away from using poly on the strut rods, and the lower control arm. sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, leaf springs, use the poly there.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Mar 11, 2008
#3
  • Mar 11, 2008
  • #3
What about the dust boots for the ball joints/tie rods ?
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Mar 11, 2008
#4
  • Mar 11, 2008
  • #4
Rusty67 said:
What about the dust boots for the ball joints/tie rods ?
Click to expand...

they would be good for that also.
 

Fast63

New Member
Sep 20, 2007
717
0
0
Mar 12, 2008
#5
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #5
I have only used poly bushings in my 5.0, but if I had to do it again I would not use them on the front control arms only, and that's because there is too much vibration. But it really helps handling. If you don't mind chattering your teeth out, go poly all the way.
 

valley82

Member
May 16, 2005
204
2
19
San Diega, Ca.
Mar 12, 2008
#6
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #6
John know's these cars, if he says not to use poly in certain places I wouldn't.
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Mar 12, 2008
#7
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #7
poly on the LCA will cause binding as well as on the strut rods. for the LCA use either regular rubber bushings or sperical bearings, john sells complete LCA's with sperical bearings already installed and he also a DIY kit for them as well. same thing for the strut rods, either regular rubber or a heim jointed adjustable unit. i prefer the TCP strut rods myself because of the design and it keeps the pivot point exactly in line with the LCA where it should be most of the other kits relocate the pivot point slightly askew of where it should be, but not bad, so running those won't cause any major problems, i just prefer to keep the pivots where they should be.

you could also run Delrin in the leaf springs but that's mucho dinero
 
O

Opentracker

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 4, 2004
516
0
16
Mar 12, 2008
#8
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #8
Rusty67 said:
What about the dust boots for the ball joints/tie rods ?
Click to expand...


Good point - Dust boots are a good place to use poly.
 
M

mikethebike

Member
Jun 12, 2007
358
0
17
Greenville, SC
Mar 12, 2008
#9
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #9
SadbutTrue said:
Jon @ Opentracker recommended I only get poly for the coil spring insulators, sway bar bushings, and rear leaf spring shackles. Obviously he knows his stuff but I figured I'd ask around to see what the consensus was.

Should I go pretty much full poly on the front (outside the strut rod bushing) or just limit it to those that Jon mentioned? Or some combo thereof? Thanks
Click to expand...

Don't forget to wrap the sway bar with teflon tape under the bushings..absolutely NO squeeks!!
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Mar 12, 2008
#10
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #10
mikethebike said:
Don't forget to wrap the sway bar with teflon tape under the bushings..absolutely NO squeeks!!
Click to expand...

either that or get energy suspensions poly bushings with grease fittings and lube them at every oil change.
 

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
1,945
13
69
Minneapolis
Mar 13, 2008
#11
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #11
I'm not a fan of poly. I would not get it in any place that Opentracker doesn't recommend. Now roller bearings - I'm a big fan.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Mar 13, 2008
#12
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #12
Hack said:
I'm not a fan of poly. I would not get it in any place that Opentracker doesn't recommend. Now roller bearings - I'm a big fan.
Click to expand...

Poly is GREAT stuff when you put it in the right places. The front control arms on the SN95 Mustangs really need poly on the smaller bushing. The rubber just can't handle the abuse. The larger rubber bushing is just fine, I don't know why Ford didn't just put 2 of the larger bushings, everything would have been fine.

Anyways, my point is that poly is great stuff when used in the right places.
 
M

mikethebike

Member
Jun 12, 2007
358
0
17
Greenville, SC
Mar 13, 2008
#13
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #13
rbohm said:
either that or get energy suspensions poly bushings with grease fittings and lube them at every oil change.
Click to expand...

Those work but I wrapped mine 22 years ago and have not had to touch them since. Plus you don't get the dirt and grime that the grease attracts that sooner or later gets between the bushing and bar.

Plus #3....it only adds the cost of 1-2 feet of teflon tape instead of having to buy al that extra stuff.

Curse me but I hate to spend more than I have to. (It's that SBC gene I inherited from my mothers side of the family)
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Mar 13, 2008
#14
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #14
I ran full polly on the street for many years without any issues. But that was with 205/65R14 tires. Went to 235/45R17s and lost a lot of the give, either that or I am just getting too old for the jarring ride

On my car now I have them on all springs and shocks (front and rear), plus the sway-bar...the rest is stock.

On the track it might all be different, I never ran lap-times with different bushings to see.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Fox Alignment Suggestions
  • PonyGTrider
  • Jul 12, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
455
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jul 13, 2025
PonyGTrider
B
Where to go from here on my build…
  • B0udreaux
  • Tuesday at 3:59 PM
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
8
Views
146
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Saturday at 8:05 PM
AeroCoupe
A
Fox Planning on building my foxbody and was wondering if I can get any tips or anything to watch out for!
  • Angelq1028
  • Oct 31, 2024
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2 3 4
Replies
76
Views
5K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jun 29, 2025
Robman8028
R
For Sale 94 Cobra 408w AOD Project For Sale
  • Labora
  • Oct 11, 2024
  • SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04)
Replies
1
Views
1K
SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) Apr 7, 2025
Labora
B
For Sale 1986 Capstang (Part Capri & part Mustang) $12,000 Galena, Ohio
  • BubbaG
  • Aug 7, 2022
  • Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93)
Replies
1
Views
2K
Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) Aug 7, 2022
General karthief
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?