Opinions Please on an 85 CFI

[carhopper]

Hello again, I posted a few days ago about an 85 GT AOD/CFI I'm considering buying for my son. Thank you for the comments about the water pump. We replaced the pump yesterday and we're good there now. I have a few more issues that I discovered now that we can drive it a bit. After reviewing the issues, is it worth $1,900? This appears to be a pretty good deal, even if I have to fix the issues below.

1. There is water dripping under the car just under the driver. Can't locate the drip and the water is cold. It might go away as it might have pooled when we filled the radiator.

2. Heat doesn't work, blower fan and controls seem to work.

3. AC needs to be charged I presume, but it is engaging the clutch.

4. The Check Oil light came on today, but I discovered that it was 1 quart low. Filled it up and the light went out.

5. Oil pressure appears low when warm, but I'm using the factory gauge right now. It rides at about 1/3-1/2 depending on RPM, and almost drops to the low line at idle.

6. Fuel gauge doesn't work. Shows full when full, but quickly drops to empty for the duration.

7. Headlight switch is broken and hangs out of the hole.

8. Brakes are very soft and the pedal almost goes to the floor.

 

[twistedwankel]

Hello again, I posted a few days ago about an 85 GT AOD/CFI I'm considering buying for my son. Thank you for the comments about the water pump. We replaced the pump yesterday and we're good there now. I have a few more issues that I discovered now that we can drive it a bit. After reviewing the issues, is it worth $1,900? This appears to be a pretty good deal, even if I have to fix the issues below.

I just sold a 'near original upgraded stock' 84LX vert in great shape w/spares but needing a paint job on hood and trunk for $5100 to a collector with 187,000 miles (50k on driveline) but clean carfax and complete history.

1. There is water dripping under the car just under the driver. Can't locate the drip and the water is cold. It might go away as it might have pooled when we filled the radiator.

Check the EGR for leaks? Shouldn't be any water over there under the driver? And you said the AC is dead.

2. Heat doesn't work, blower fan and controls seem to work.

You can hear the flapper move open and shut so might be just the vacuum tube?
3. AC needs to be charged I presume, but it is engaging the clutch.

My brother just paid to have his '90 converted to 134R for $250 and it's ice cold.

4. The Check Oil light came on today, but I discovered that it was 1 quart low. Filled it up and the light went out.

5. Oil pressure appears low when warm, but I'm using the factory gauge right now. It rides at about 1/3-1/2 depending on RPM, and almost drops to the low line at idle.Just behind the gas gage is a clipon (uses 9v battery snaps to plastic circuit board) resister for all the gages. I replaced mine for about $36 and it solved all my gage issues.

6. Fuel gauge doesn't work. Shows full when full, but quickly drops to empty for the duration.If you have the status pack under the dash when the yellow low gas light comes on you have 4.5 gallons left. That normally works separately from the gage.

7. Headlight switch is broken and hangs out of the hole.
these are available new.

8. Brakes are very soft and the pedal almost goes to the floor.
I would be all over that first before driving anywhere!! Probably low on fluid = pop lid. Brakes are cheap.

Now a days I assume I'll have to put about $1500 into a used car to make it up to my standards of reliability. If it doesn't need any body work and rust free it's a real bargain.

 

[2000xp8]

I'm going to disagree with twisted, i think no matter the condition, it's no steal.
The CFI setup is pretty undesireable.
Sounds like it needs a new heater core, which is a PITA.
Broken odds and ends add up.
Low oil probably means it's burning oil up, how fast who knows.
Before you know it, you could have purchased an 87 or newer EFI car. Which will be easier to work on, and probably something your son would want to convert to after a period of time anyway.

Unless the body and interior were in excellent condition, i probably wouldn't want the car, period, that includes, for free.

 

[carhopper]

Thanks guys, great info. I've been at it all morning since I'm on vacation. The water dripping was residual from a sloppy first fill up, there's nothing this morning. Temperature hits 190 (aftermarket gauge) and stays solid with no leaks. Fixed the headlight switch with a screw for now into the plate to hold it in place. It's hidden from sight. Replaced the oil sending unit and pressure rides at 1/2 most of the time so that makes me feel much better. Fixed a couple of other small things, but overall I'm ready to make the purchase.

When I get it home from Florida (580 miles), I'll address the heater and AC.

By the way, the low fuel light is on all the time, so it's probably the sending unit. I'm sure this is a PITA to replace.

 

[rd]

None of the car probs are hard to fix. The heater cores are infamous for failing. If the heater hoses are hooked up to the heater, and there is no leak in the car, count your blessings. Look for vacuum door control probs. Most GT's in the lower end of the price range will have some of these issues.

I am not familiar with the CFI unit, and overall, as others have noted, they are not common, at least in this group. From my perspective, it would be fixable or changeable, but that may be more than you want to do. It will be somewhat down on performance compared to a carbed car or later EFI setup. If it works, and you like the car probably not a bad vehicle.

If you are a diy'er, it should be no prob, if you have a shop do stuff like change the heater core, if needed, that could eat up $4-800 or so. Essentially, the dash has to come out. I have done several, but it is a pita. For comparison, I got a $500 four banger coupe for my daughter several years ago, replaced the dead A4LD for $100, fixed the fan module, put in a new heater core for $35, and had a driveable car with air. Crappy body though.

 

[carhopper]

Well, first of all he let it go for $1,500 so I'm very happy. I got it home, but it was interesting. We left in the morning about 9am and everything was fine, but as the day heated up to the high 90s and even 100 degrees, I began to experience an overheat condition. The temp climbed to 200-205. I stopped, let it cool down and opened the radiator, level was fine. I continued on and when I hit the mountains it climbed to 220 before I stopped to let it cool. Remember, I had just replaced the water pump and t-stat as well so that only left the fan clutch in my mind. Then it occurred to me, the car doesn't have a fan shroud. I guess the last person felt it wasn't important, but I'm sure that put it over the top as far as efficiency.

I waited until about 6pm and hit the road again. It was cooler outside and never got over 195 degrees. I ordered the shroud today.

The car is also using about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. The previous owner put on a Ford Motorsport air intake. While it's connected to the right valve cover, it doesn't have any kind of filter. Quite a bit of oil is entering the CFI. I ordered a valve cover vent today with an internal filter so I hope that helps. If not, I'll do a catch can.

My son and I blead the brakes today so that problem is fixed. The front right was never blead apparently and had some air. We also replaced all of the interior lights.

While bleeding the front right, I discovered that the inner tie rod end had a lot of slack so I ordered one of those along with the boot. This would explain the vibrating wheel at high speed or when cornering.

All that's really left is the heat problem and fuel sending unit.

 

[twistedwankel]

All of my foxbodies have had "issues" when I bought them and drove usually 1200-2000 home.....but they all got us home!! The last one quit pulling into the driveway

Continued Good luck with the new ride. Sounds like you've figured out most of the issues all ready. Profit is not a dirty word.