Opinions wanted: Solid Steering Shaft

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
137
104
Dallas, TX
Just wanted to get your guys opinion on solid steering shafts. Has anyone installed one and only that to feel the difference? I've searched and seen a couple guys doing whole suspension/steering upgrades. I am wondering how much of a difference does just a solid steering shaft make?

I am looking to stiffen up my steering. Right now my steering is so incredibly loose it feels like something is wrong. I can't remember the exact date but the tie rods don't have that many miles on them. The steering is very responsive, like if I turn there isn't any play in the steering wheel, when I turn the wheel a tiny bit, the wheels move. It's just the looseness of the steering wheel that really bothers me. I don't want manual steering, but something in between would be nice.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I have one. installed it with my 03/04 Cobra rack.

As with any mods, there are pros and cons. The pros are that it does stiffen up the steering. Any little twitch gives you instant response down at the wheels. The cons, that increased feel works both ways, so you feel more of the road imperfections and such as feedback is instantly transmitted back up to you.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
if it aint broke don't fix it. Unless the stock rag joint is torn I would leave as is.

I made my own using an old stock shaft cut off the end where the rubber rag joint isolator was and welded on a universal joint i bought on Ebay for $25,, but only because i replaced the rack and pinion. The steering is more responsive but you do feel more road through the steering wheel.
 
I put a Borgeson sold steering shaft (with the vibration reducer) in my SN about 15 years ago. I regret not doing it much sooner. It was pricey, but made a huge improvement in steering feel.

However, if your steering has a lot of play in the wheel or a bad on-center feel like mine did, you'll have to look at the whole setup - A-arm bushings, ball joints, rack bushings, the steering rack itself, and the alignment settings.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
if it aint broke don't fix it. Unless the stock rag joint is torn I would leave as is.

I made my own using an old stock shaft cut off the end where the rubber rag joint isolator was and welded on a universal joint i bought on Ebay for $25,, but only because i replaced the rack and pinion. The steering is more responsive but you do feel more road through the steering wheel.
I did the same,works great and cheap.
 
I installed a MM solid steering shaft and aluminum rack bushings at the same time as my Cobra rack and really didn't notice much in the way of harshness or vibration, but the steering is much better. Worth it in my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I’m changing out my entire steering system this spring for the same reason. Steering is still responsive, but is way too light. And rack will bind just a bit at times at a sharp turn at low speed. Everything is original except for the pump so it doesn’t owe me anything. Went with the complete Flaming River set up from Summit Racing. Wasn’t cheap, $1400, but includes everything you need. Steering is important, and I want to do it once and be done with it.
 
I have a Hybrid MM column and a ZX rack from an 03, that was rebuilt by Turn one, going into my 83.... Not sure what rack install bushings to use??
 
I’m changing out my entire steering system this spring for the same reason. Steering is still responsive, but is way too light. And rack will bind just a bit at times at a sharp turn at low speed. Everything is original except for the pump so it doesn’t owe me anything. Went with the complete Flaming River set up from Summit Racing. Wasn’t cheap, $1400, but includes everything you need. Steering is important, and I want to do it once and be done with it.

I'm with you on this one.

I was looking on Rock Auto for some rack and pinions and I saw one that says Hi performance suspension and another that says non hi performance suspension. Anyone know the difference?
 
Usually non-high performance references the 2.3L parts. It’s common to find many parts stores listing 2.3 parts even when you ask for a 5.0 GT.

Difference is the 2.3 racks are 20:1 ratio and the 5.0 is 15:1. ALL SN95 racks are 15:1. Difference there is valving and torsion spring.


Not to tell anyone what to do but if you are spending the coin (or not depending on which shaft you buy) on a MM solid steering shaft, get the SN95 hybrid shaft and swap to a SN95 rack. The brunt of the cost is the shaft, so now is the time.

I know there are cheaper shafts, but just a thoight.


I did the MM shaft, poly rack bushings and SN95 rack at the same time. Yes you do get a little more feedback, but it was not anything that I would ever discourage anyone over, especially on a modified fox where everything feels raw anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Usually non-high performance references the 2.3L parts. It’s common to find many parts stores listing 2.3 parts even when you ask for a 5.0 GT.

Difference is the 2.3 racks are 20:1 ratio and the 5.0 is 15:1. ALL SN95 racks are 15:1. Difference there is valving and torsion spring.


Not to tell anyone what to do but if you are spending the coin (or not depending on which shaft you buy) on a MM solid steering shaft, get the SN95 hybrid shaft and swap to a SN95 rack. The brunt of the cost is the shaft, so now is the time.

I know there are cheaper shafts, but just a thoight.


I did the MM shaft, poly rack bushings and SN95 rack at the same time. Yes you do get a little more feedback, but it was not anything that I would ever discourage anyone over, especially on a modified fox where everything feels raw anyway.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. And yea I have solid motor mounts on my car so I doubt it would be much worse than that