Over 2 Years!

5.0Pilot

New Member
Feb 14, 2009
11
0
2
Oxnard, CA
I've searched on the topic, and I know this has been brought up before but...

I daily drive my 5 speed, and after driving about six miles, she starts stalling whenever its under 2k. At the light at idle she'll die completely, and I have to keep restarting her the last leg of the drive. Same scenario on the way home.

The check engine light will go on and off sporadically, but when I used the scanner tool, nothing was stored. I also went down the list of items to check (TPS, IAC, vacuum lines, replaced coolant temp. sensor and air charge temp. sensor, swapped MAF) but nothing has worked. This is still happening even after I had the engine rebuilt last 5,000 miles.

I know that this has happened to you before, so I would like to hear your story of what your specific issue was and what you did to fix it.

Thanks
 
I had an old 1975 Mustang II with a 3.8 in it that did the same thing, turned out to be the ECU, don't know if that will help you or not, but it some like it's something electrical... I can remember driving home from work and it would just die and I'd have to put it in neutral and then hit the key to start it again... After a few cranks it would lite up, sometimes it took longer... It was a major PITA!
 
That's what I'm fearing since I have basicaly replaced or swapped every elecrical component under the hood, including O2 sensors... How difficult is it to swap the ECU? What would be an Ideal upgrade that would be compatible for future performance installs?
 
You may have overlooked this...

See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems.

The quick and easy way to dump the codes is in there too, and all you need to do it is a paper clip! The first two posts contain all the fixes & updates. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
 
you did not mention or list the TFI - one failure mode of it is the engine dying and then restarting after a short cool down period. Heat kills the TFI. I just moved my TFI over to the inner fender and have used a heat sensor gun on it - runs at about 130 degrees. Much cooler than the 180-200 degree engine. Ford moved it off the dist in 94 after a class action law suit.
 
jrichker, thanks for the link. I will attempt to pull codes from the ECU, as the dash does flash when the car is doing its unwanted cycle.

tmoss, I should have added that I just did just that and replaced it, along with new O2 sensors, since I swapped to an off road H-pipe. But I guess relocating the module wouldnt hurt.