Overheat and pony lackin power

[jmhkas]

Over the pass week my stang has been overheating, not to the redline, but almost just hanging out there. Once the car warms up, all power is gone. When I sit at a red light or something sometimes the car just shuts off and then when I smash down on the gas pedal, it just bogs down like it is going to quit. On the interstate after about 2 minutes of running the temperature goes back to normal, but the power still seems to be gone. When I get off the interstate the overheat problem comes back. When trying to redline after it warms up, it wont even redline. I will get to about 5100 RPM and it will just start making this sound like its dying for air or something. Tell me what's wrong!! Whenever just starting the car up from a cold engine, it will burn the damn tires off with ease. Like I mentioned I have no problem with it until it warms up.

95 Mustang GT, Mostly stock with cold air intake, flowmaster exhaust, auto

 

[HISSIN50]

The first thing to do is pull codes.

And you had asked about timing on the other thread.

You need to use a real gauge or some other means to ascertain what temps you are really running at. If the issue is mostly occuring at low speed or stopped, and temps go down once at speed, check your fan over very carefully. Make sure low and high speed come on when they should.

Once you know how hot you're really running, the falling off at 5K RPM can be addressed (that can be due to running too hot, plat plugs, failing TFI, failing coil, and many other issues).

Welcome to the boards - you'll like it here.

Good luck.

 

[jmhkas]

Thanks Hissin! I'm going to O'reily tomorrow to buy a code reader. I have been coming home sometimes and lifting the hood and the fan is running. How can I make it switch back and forth between low and high so I know they are working? I do know it is kicking on though. I do believe the falling out after 5k has something to do with the heat because when it's cold I can knock it down to 6k before it shifts. How do you recommend I check those speeds though? I'm pretty new at this.

 

[jmhkas]

Just got back from a quick test drive before I headed to bed I went out and warmed up the engine and then the good ol' engine started to cut out right at 5k. I did notice though it only did it when I held the accelerator to the floor. When I barely let up on it, it went on to 5400 then shifted. Also I put it in neutral at a stop light and tapped on it and it went up and tapped 6k. When I pulled into the driveway I went ahead and popped the hood and the fan seemed like it was giving all it had. It was pushin some air. So I do know that is working. I will get those codes tomorrow and hopefully we can go from there. Thx for the help!! This is frustrating

 

[HISSIN50]

When you go to pull codes (all you need is a paperclip to get them), each fan speed will cycle on right at the beginning of the KOEO test. On the code reader, if you do buy one, look for one with a digital display - much better than counting beeps or flashes. You can get a lot of code info from your repair manual (often in the emissions chapter).

Ok, when the car is at ~208*F, the low speed fan comes on naturally. You can check Pin 14 on the CCRM (the black box on the radiator overflow bottle bracket. Look close at the connector and you can see the numbers for the pins). Look for 12 volts at Pin 14 when at or above 208*F.

If the car continues to heat up (or you turn AC on), Pin 14 goes dead and Pin 17 will show contintuity to ground. This is for high speed. Check that Pin 17 shows ground with AC on, or by 228*F (dont let the car get that hot on purpose - but if it does, you can check it).

Something you might want to do is install manual switches for the fan. If interested, search or post and we'll walk ya through it. Simply stated, you connect fused 12 volts to pin 14 (of the CCRM) and with a separate switch, switch ground to pin 17 of the CCRM (just like what you tested for above - but now you're making it happen rather than the computer).
That said, a much better way to do it is with a Dc Controller. I have one in my '94 and it rocks.

Ok, with the rev issue, it sounds like it revs fine but your automatic is shifting early sometimes. The programming for the AODE is very involved and I really dont know how the car should shift. Don, Paul, Shawn, RC and others with AODE's can help you with that.
If you know what gears you have, along with any trans mods (shift kit, J-mod, etc), post them up because that changes how things happen.

Good luck.

 

[Jeffrostang]

My car is doing the exact same thing... when the temp gets between half and 3/4 it starts bogging down. I thought maybe it was because it is 105 deg outside but I'm not sure. Car runs really hot but never overheats. I just replaced the water pump and that didn't help. My fan seems to be working fine. When it get hot my A/C starts getting pretty warm. Not sure what to change next. Fan seems to be working fine.

 

[HISSIN50]

My car is doing the exact same thing... when the temp gets between half and 3/4 it starts bogging down. I thought maybe it was because it is 105 deg outside but I'm not sure. Car runs really hot but never overheats. I just replaced the water pump and that didn't help. My fan seems to be working fine. When it get hot my A/C starts getting pretty warm. Not sure what to change next. Fan seems to be working fine.

If it runs hot (and this is confirmed with a real gauge or ECT converting) at all times, and the fan works, and the little air dam is under the car, that can suggest that the system simply cant reject enough heat. That usually points to a radiator.

 

[jmhkas]

everything to do with the tranny is stock with stock gears in the rear end. I don't know what they are though. I have some 3.73's waiting to go in. Am I going to have to mess around with the tranny a lot after installing them? I'm interested in how to wire a switch to the high setting for the fan. Or maybe getting like a 3 way switch and wire it for low and high. But that might be too complicated.

That sounds like it could be the problem. It just can't get rid of the heat. I was looking at maybe a different hood to allow more air flow to the engine, then reality kicked in and said well, I do a lot more around town driving than actual highway driving. What's a kid to do??

I was hoping this would be a simple fix. Oh and I learned a Haynes manual can be your best friend.

It's late and I couldn't sleep because I was lazy today. So I'm gonna go give it another shot.

 

[HISSIN50]

You cant really use a 3 way switch for the fan speed control, unless you add external relays (because the triggering in OEM form uses different polarities for high and low).

Separate switches for each speed works - that's what I did before going with the new controller. Mustangworld.com has a tech article about installing a switch if you want to check it out.

Jeffrostang, these temps in Tucson are great, huh? It's still 105* out in the garage right now (after midnight). More heat rejection (radiator) might be something to look into.

 

[95conv.5.0]

my 95 GT did the did the same thing, I met a man who works at the parts store, he had the code reader and ran a diagonostic on my car and I had a bad pickup coil ( on the distributor) and TPS sensor which I replaced and it ran fine .after that.

 

[jmhkas]

well I just got finished getting the codes. No faults found. The fan cycled correctly, low then high. I don't think the high speed ever comes on though. Reason being because everyone says you must have your A/C on. I never run mine simply because it doesn't work. It's a pain sometimes, but I survive. I tried recharging the system, but that didn't solve it. I'm not really too worried about it though. I've even thought about deleting it. Any suggestions with where to go next would be great!!

 

[1TallMF]

Do you still have the stock temp. thermostat in there? I think its a 192* or 195*. If thats the case you might want to go with a 180* version, and prefferably a "High-Flow" model if they're available. If that doesn't help it out, try to hook up a couple toggle switches to your low and high speeds for the fan. And if that still doesn't do the trick, its time for a bigger aluminum radiator. At least that would be in the proper order of quick and cheap to difficult and expensive.

Oh, and if your A/C isn't working and you don't plan of fixing it, get rid of the condenser and cap the lines for now. That might allow for a bit more airflow directly to the rad. But yeah, that seems like alot of work. Good luck

 

[jmhkas]

OK I'm a dummy. I didn't do the KOER tests. All it said was 536 which is Brake On/Off circuit failure and code 632 which is TCS circuit didn't change states during KOER. I'm going to go to autozone and pick up a thermostate. I've never put one in before so I hope it isn't too big of a hassle. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[Rjovi]

well I just got finished getting the codes. No faults found. The fan cycled correctly, low then high. I don't think the high speed ever comes on though. Reason being because everyone says you must have your A/C on. I never run mine simply because it doesn't work. It's a pain sometimes, but I survive. I tried recharging the system, but that didn't solve it. I'm not really too worried about it though. I've even thought about deleting it. Any suggestions with where to go next would be great!!

There are a couple things that could be wrong with your ac that are easy fixes. First being the switch on the firewall, easy to check.

I just put in an aluminum radiator and it fixed my overheating problems. It's amazing how small the stock one is.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Question on your tranny.... how many miles are on it? When you pull the tranny dipstick out, what does the fluid, look & smell like? Remember the tranny cooling is built into the stock radiator. If your coolant IS getting as hot as your guage says, then so is your tranny fluid. Many of us have a tranny cooler on our cars.

 

[jmhkas]

the tranny is stock everything so it has approx 120,000 miles on it (odometer doesnt work, but fixing it this week) It is red and smells like tranny fluid lol. How much does a decent tranny cooler run and how much of a pain in the ass is it to put on....


*installing new 180*f thermostat now*

 

[gcomfx.com]

$40ish. It's not that bad to put on, but it's not exactly fun. Just depends on your skillz and attitude.

Couple of different ways to mount it, I bought their little attachement kit with fittings and things to hook it inline with a new stock radiator. Cost me $8 or so for that.

 

[Houston5.0Jay]

oh... man I forgot all about tranny coolers... this car is the first AOD I've ever had... very lackluster performance coming from 5 speed 5.0s.. and Bikes...

id love to hear how much a cooler costs... becasue with this AOD im looking at gears/Shift Kit/Stall Converter combo to get a little more OOOMPH outa the slug bug of a tranny in there..

 

[gcomfx.com]

Beat you to it.... look up.

 

[HISSIN50]

Paul is right - adding a cooler is simple (B&M Supercooler would be my choice - something over 20K GVWR). IIRC, the top line at the radiator's heat exchanger is the outlet line from the exchanger.

One thought about your codes: if they came up during KOER: Did you press the brake pedal and turn the OD switch Off once you began the test? You have a small window of time to do this - otherwise the puter can spit codes.

Good luck.