been battle this for a week now. before it would peg the temp gauge ( no good ) bleed the system and then it shows half on the temp gauge when cruising around. though ok I'm good pulling onto my street it just keeps climbing anf climbing. radiator fluid boiling over in the over flow tank. im at a lose. thermostat is not stuck closed or open. checked it and put a new on in.
thermostat isnt in backwards is it?Hey Ive done it before lol
run it with no t-stat see if it gets better/worsens. thermostats never are full proof new or not. its a shame cause they are such a simple piece of equipment..
its in right. that was my first thing ive checked becasue ive done it before too lol.
it only starts to do it now after you get on it. like from like 20-highway speedsthen you curise at say 55ish and then come to a stop and it will start to climb in temp its almost like its sticking but idk what to check. im about to throw my mark 8 fan on it. but to do that ill need a 3g.
fan clutch?
yes, it sounds like your fan clutch went bad, your fan clutch responds to temperature change and changes the angle of the fan blades as they spin to either draw in more air as coolant temperatures rise, or take in less air as coolant temperatures drop... chances are that's the original fan clutch that came on the car, change it out and i bet it will solve your headaches
the principle behind the fan clutch changing the angle of the blades makes it easy to understand why mechanical fans cause so much parasitic drag and why electric fans are so much more efficient, when your car heats up the angle of the blades changes and therefore the drag on the fan due to friction and air resistance increases, that translates to drag on the crankshaft of the motor...
yeah, the stock mustang alt is barely powerful enough to keep a stock car alive, an e-fan would draw way too much power on the stock setup
when you factor in the cost of a new 3g alt and wiring, plus a thermostatic controller to control when it kicks on and off... you may just be better off saving some coin and replacing that worn mechanical fan clutch for now if you're on a budget
yes, it sounds like your fan clutch went bad, your fan clutch responds to temperature change and changes the angle of the fan blades as they spin to either draw in more air as coolant temperatures rise, or take in less air as coolant temperatures drop... chances are that's the original fan clutch that came on the car, change it out and i bet it will solve your headaches
the principle behind the fan clutch changing the angle of the blades makes it easy to understand why mechanical fans cause so much parasitic drag and why electric fans are so much more efficient, when your car heats up the angle of the blades changes and therefore the drag on the fan due to friction and air resistance increases, that translates to drag on the crankshaft of the motor...
The fan clutch is an automatic device that is often used in a vehicle’s cooling system. So, when the engine is cool or even when it is at a normal operating temperature, the fan clutch will partially disengage the engine’s radiator cooling fan (which is mechanically driven).
This is normally found at the front of the water pump and it is driven by a belt and pulley that is connected to the engine’s crankshaft. This process will then save power because the engine won’t have to fully drive the fan.
But, if the engine’s temperature gets hotter than what the settings for the clutch are, the fan will then become fully engaged, this will then maintain or even lower the temperature of the engine.
You will find that most fan clutches are viscous or “fluid” (the internal friction of a fluid that is produced by movement of its molecules against each other. It is what causes the fluid to resist flowing) couplings that are combined with a bi-metallic (it’s a strip that is used to convert a temperature change into mechanical displacement and it usually consists of two layers of iron and copper) sensory system that is similar to that in a thermostat.
Sometimes fan clutches will fail on you but they are normally quite reliable so this doesn’t often happen. You will find though that a common symptom of the clutch fan failure is the car overheating when idling.
If you have a bad fan clutch, it can also cause very poor performance in the vehicle’s air conditioning system. The reason for this is because the fan also cools the air conditioner’s condenser and that is found directly in front of the radiator.
The other potential symptom if the fan clutch fails is that it will draw the air at a very high rate, so in the cold weather the heating system will blow out lukewarm air and it won’t ever deliver enough sufficient hot air.
It is best to leave the replacing of the fan clutch up to a professional mechanic, unless of course you know what you are doing. But if you are finding that the vehicle is fine on the highway, yet when you are in traffic or you are stuck at a red light and the heat gauge immediately goes up and gets too hot, then it may be time for you to get it replaced.
It is quite a simply process as the fan clutch is simply sandwiched between the can and the connecting shaft. All that would have to be done is to unbolt the fan and remove the clutch. The new one is then installed and the fan re-attached and you will then be on your way. It is advisable to may be do a coolant flush and put in a new thermostat at the same time.
well, i suppose i was misinformed... i've changed out fan clutches (mostly on 67-72 GM A Bodies) for years and that's what I was taught... sorry for the bad information
Sorry to come across like a jerk. Was in the middle of an arguement on the phone. What you described is a flex fan.You can feel a fan clutch work when you spin a fan with the engine off.
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