Overheating on Autometer & normal on stock gage

Psychdaddy

Founding Member

Jun 14, 2002

304

0

0

Derby, KS

Sep 22, 2006

#1

• Sep 22, 2006

• #1

Just got my 331 stroker running. It has approx. 120 miles on it and has an S-Trim installed. During the installation, I put a new aluminum radiator in and went back to the stock fan and clutch with stock fan shroud. Had to do this because the Mark VIII electric fan would not clear the 8-rib s/c belt.

Anyway, even if I drive it in the evening when the weather is cool, within 10 -15 min the Autometer gage will rise up to 230* while the stock temp gage remains in the "normal" zone, meaning it hardly rises above halfway. I have no coolant overflow coming from the canister nor is there overheating signs from the radiator pressure cap.

Any suggestions on which gage I should trust? Anyone else experienced this?

Chris

 

S

Sicarius428

Active Member

Jan 6, 2004

2,085

5

49

Sep 22, 2006

#2

• Sep 22, 2006

• #2

My money would be on the autometer. Stock gauges are not to be trusted.
Kevin

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,247

17,927

224

Massachusetts

Sep 22, 2006

#3

• Sep 22, 2006

• #3

Where is the sender located on the intake?

I'd trust Autometer over stock

 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(

10 Year Member

Dec 18, 2005

1,634

695

204

Cheesehead

Sep 22, 2006

#4

• Sep 22, 2006

• #4

Are you sure there is no air in the system?

 

B

baskin

Member

Nov 1, 2003

152

0

17

Sep 22, 2006

#5

• Sep 22, 2006

• #5

I wouldn't trust either one, I've seen both off by quite a bit, and if it's as hot in the evening as it is during the day, then the thermostat is limiting the drop in temperature at night, given the fan clutch is good.

Check the ECT voltage to verify the temperature, you'll find the numbers here:

http://www.dccontrol.com/troubleshooting.htm

 

S

superhuaman

New Member

Nov 8, 2004

907

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0

Harrisburg, PA

Sep 22, 2006

#6

• Sep 22, 2006

• #6

are you using the same sender for both gauges? and if not, where are both of them?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Sep 22, 2006

#7

• Sep 22, 2006

• #7

I'm with Brian - you need more info.

In general (though not an excuse to let this go without troubleshooting) at op. temp, my stocker read ~35*F cooler than aftermarket mechanical gauge.

OT: Brian, I'll email you, but thank you very much for the schematic.

 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

5 Year Member

Jul 1, 2005

314

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134

Apache Junction, AZ

Sep 23, 2006

#8

• Sep 23, 2006

• #8

Try replacing the stock temp sending unit, if you haven't done so, already. Verify there are no kinks or weird bends in the line from the sending unit to the gauge of the Autometer unit. Are you running them both off of a T-connection at the intake? If so, it could be that the Autometer is running a true reading while the stock sending unit is far enough removed from the flow of coolant that it's not reading accurately - need to investigate things further for the cause of overheating, if that's the case.

FWIW, my Autometer temp gauge works about 90% of the time. For whatever reason, it occasionally gets a bug up its butt and will not give any reading at all from a cold start until I hit a bump or something just right that wakes it up, and then it's right up to 190* where it's supposed to be. I smoothed out a couple of somewhat sharp bends in the line to the gauge and haven't had any problems with it for quite awhile, now.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Sep 23, 2006

#9

• Sep 23, 2006

• #9

A typical tee connection should never be used for a temp gauge(s) IMHO. The probe needs to be suscepted to the actual flow of coolant in real time. A tee can tend to allow coolant to pool in the alcove.

 

S

superhuaman

New Member

Nov 8, 2004

907

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0

Harrisburg, PA

Sep 23, 2006

#10

• Sep 23, 2006

• #10

hmmm...i have a tee for my ect sensor (not the gauge sender).