I've replaced the thermostat 3 times already. The one in the car now is a fail safe. I would think it should be fine.
The radiator is an EBay 3 row aluminum radiator with two electric fans. Could it be possible that this radiator isn't sufficient?
Overheating Issues - Water Pump?
- Thread starter Dan Benavides
- Start date
I've replaced the thermostat 3 times already. The one in the car now is a fail safe. I would think it should be fine.
The radiator is an EBay 3 row aluminum radiator with two electric fans. Could it be possible that this radiator isn't sufficient?
Ebay anything does not impress me, does the radiator have a name? What are the cfm on the fans? 200 and even 215 degrees in hot weather in traffic with the air on is not unusual,
I test all my t-stats before install, I have 4 or 5 brand new that don't open at the right temp (stant brand included).
Start the car cold with the cap off, watch the for coolant flow as the system heats up, as you know it should increase with temp
When it reaches 180-190 squeeze the upper hose to push some coolant out so you have some room below the top of the radiator, raise the rpms being careful not to blow hot coolant on yourself, does the flow increase significantly?
I test all my t-stats before install, I have 4 or 5 brand new that don't open at the right temp (stant brand included).
Start the car cold with the cap off, watch the for coolant flow as the system heats up, as you know it should increase with temp
When it reaches 180-190 squeeze the upper hose to push some coolant out so you have some room below the top of the radiator, raise the rpms being careful not to blow hot coolant on yourself, does the flow increase significantly?
I didn't see if you answered the question about when it runs hot at idle and in traffic? On the highway?
I also didn't see where you said how you are getting the reading of 230 degrees, stock gauge?
Upgraded alternator?
I wouldn't have replaced the water pump if it wasn't seized or leaking and if I did it would have been with the ford racing stock replacement, not a high flow one.
While i'm not really a fan (no pun intended) of electric fan swaps on foxes, I really dislike it when it's done with cheap aftermarket junk. What are the cfms on the fans?
The stock fan setup never lets anyone down or has any adverse cooling or charging issues.
I also didn't see where you said how you are getting the reading of 230 degrees, stock gauge?
Upgraded alternator?
I wouldn't have replaced the water pump if it wasn't seized or leaking and if I did it would have been with the ford racing stock replacement, not a high flow one.
While i'm not really a fan (no pun intended) of electric fan swaps on foxes, I really dislike it when it's done with cheap aftermarket junk. What are the cfms on the fans?
The stock fan setup never lets anyone down or has any adverse cooling or charging issues.
@karthiefThen why do all the cars, trucks, buses, trains and airplanes use them now?
Do they? My Explorer has a fan clutch. Why do they use them? I dunno, but I can describe technical reasons, solid Engineering reasons, to explain my position as I stated it. Blindly accepting some particular trend makes little sense, wouldn't you agree? imp
Guys,
Here's the back ground in my overheating issue. As the weather got warmer so did the car with the stock radiator and fan clutch. This is why I decided to upgrade it.
I am using the stock instrument gauge to read the temp. It did work perfectly before the issues started. At the moment temps are reaching 250-260 degrees and do not change much when I am driving the car.
I don't know what brand the radiator or fans are. They are made in China.
Someone mentioned weather or not I see water flowing at the top of the radiator with the cap off, yes I do when the thermostat opens up but Its very slighty. When I rev the motor I can't really really tell if the flow increases, i don't think it does.
Any ideas? Could this still be the thermostat ? I'm very stumped at this point and becoming an expert at pulling the thermostat. The water passages looked clean when I replaced the water pump and timing cover so I don't think there's a clog in the system.
What should I do next ?
Here's the back ground in my overheating issue. As the weather got warmer so did the car with the stock radiator and fan clutch. This is why I decided to upgrade it.
I am using the stock instrument gauge to read the temp. It did work perfectly before the issues started. At the moment temps are reaching 250-260 degrees and do not change much when I am driving the car.
I don't know what brand the radiator or fans are. They are made in China.
Someone mentioned weather or not I see water flowing at the top of the radiator with the cap off, yes I do when the thermostat opens up but Its very slighty. When I rev the motor I can't really really tell if the flow increases, i don't think it does.
Any ideas? Could this still be the thermostat ? I'm very stumped at this point and becoming an expert at pulling the thermostat. The water passages looked clean when I replaced the water pump and timing cover so I don't think there's a clog in the system.
What should I do next ?
@Dan Benavides
Look closely at the lower radiator hose. I have seen them collapsed enough occasionally to seriously restrict the flow. If opening the radiator cap cautiously allows looking in with a light, water flow should be readily visible, even at idle, of course, thermostat must be open (or left out, to do the flow test, best way). Good radiator hoses have a spiral wire spring within them to prevent collapsing, which usually is due to the suction produced by the water pump at it's inlet. imp
Real time recon
Mustang Master
Looks like you have covered all the bases . But , perhaps there is STILL air in the system.It took me several tries / attempts to finally get it ALL out on my 302.
Yeah I took the car to a local mustang shop and they told me that they ran a radiator test and the fluid turned pink. They seam to think that the block may be cracked. They are going to open up the motor and check everything out. I hope it's just the head gaskets but if it's the block I'm going to have to find a new block. At that point I don't know if I should keep the 302 or just swap in a 351? I'm not trying to spend too much money.
Grab another 5.0, I wouldn't consider a 351 a 'budget swap' although it could be with some sharp searching, and not all 5.0's are the same, some have lower compression than others.
I stopped my the shop yesterday and the mechanic had the heads off the car. He told me that he found water in the two rear cyclinders but that the head gasket was good. He's still leaning towards the block being cracked. He said he will have the block out by Tuesday.
He also showed me that the valves where hitting the pistons. So the previous owner that rebuilt the engine didn't do a good job with the valve clearance.
This sounds like it's going to be an expensive repair. I'll keep you guys posted.
He also showed me that the valves where hitting the pistons. So the previous owner that rebuilt the engine didn't do a good job with the valve clearance.
This sounds like it's going to be an expensive repair. I'll keep you guys posted.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Just getting to this thread and see you are beyond my recommendation but thought I would put this idea out there as the title will probably draw others in for overheating research. If the car is/was equipped with A/C and has the condenser still in place you need to check and make sure it is flowing enough air. If it is too damaged it sits in front of the radiator and can restrict airflow significantly. In the winter the ambient air temp can allow a good radiator to overcome minimum airflow. But as temps in the summer rise, that air flow is very very important.
Good luck on your repairs. And don't be like me and normally try to save a dollar as it never works.
Good luck on your repairs. And don't be like me and normally try to save a dollar as it never works.
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