shouldnt.TRE said:just a thought if the haeter core was bad could that cause enough flow disrup to cause the problem?
i agree, maybe it does not get as hot here...its more humid here than anything, but even if that is the case were talking what MAX 20*'s???(if its 110 there and 90 here) idk if that should make a difference between my car running solidly cool and your car over heating...maybe im wrong...mytight95 said:i would also like to add an opinion to this.....
...jason
HISSIN50 said:for me, the difference between [ambient temps of] 95* and up vs 95* and below is pretty big. seems to be some sort of threshold. i run 200* pretty easy in traffic with it around 110* outside. 170-180* below 95* outside. just my experience.
remember that the less temp difference there is across the coil, the less cooling can occur. the rad will cool more degrees if it is receiving 70* air (ambient) while running at, say 180*, than it will if the ambient air is 110*. less delta means less absolute cooling. not much one can do.
anything over 178 at the ECT should get you into closed loop. in the old days, guys ran cool - they wanted hot oil and cold coolant. with EFI, you cant run so cold. it is said that you want the oil between 200 - 230. the exact temp is often debated. over 250 with dino oil is not good - it breaks down pretty fast. EFI 5.0's tend to keep the oil on the hot side - not uncommon to be over 250*. oil coolers are nice.
it is also kinda surprising how little coolant helps with the boiling point/freeze point. every little bit is crucial, but coolant does not help as much as one migh think. of course, if we all ran at perfect temps, there would be no worries. but if you run straight water and then have a glitch, there is no safety margin. although some do run straight water, with perhaps a WW type product and some corrosion/lubricant type product. i would not on a street car.
Hazmat, what i might recommend for mixture recommendations for others: try to run 50/50. if a little too hot, try 65/35 or 70/30. i try to recommend that people run as much coolant as possible (for glitches, as above). keep thinning it down till it runs where the person wants it. everyone's systems are a little different and some can get away with less heat transfer (more coolant, less water) and still run the same temps as someone else with less coolant. good info though - your theory sounds nice to me. i would just not necesarily jump right into such a low amount of coolant unless necessary. i bet changing the coolant twice a year kinda sucks though.
a lot of this was just general info i thought might kinda help - comments were not directed at anyone's posts or comments.
i agree with ya, bud. sorry if that was not clear in my post. all i was saying is that one should try something like a 50/50 mix. if still too hot, try more water/less coolant. just as you said in your last post. we be cool.HazMat404 said:i say start at the least "drastic" methods then move on until your car starts to cool. thats the only way to make sure you car gets cooled and not overcooled
you are right. i had not thought about it too much. i cant remember if it was this thread or another that i posted it, but water does transfer heat about 2.5 times better than coolant. a 50/50 mix of E/G coolant/water does not raise the boiling point that much over 100% water, either. so i can really see your point, now that i actually get the gerbil upstairs spinning the wheel. my main worry with cooling systems is corrosion, so i tend to run no less than about 40% coolant. but that has not much to do with heat transfer, and now that i recall how little antifreeze raises the boiling point..... ive allowed my bias toward that end to cloud the facts about heat transfer....... Hmmm, ive been humbled.HazMat404 said:...i knew you agreed but the lil comment about "boil over protection" just doesnt fit me too well. ur right that coolant protects the metals and hoses that it comes in contact with along with the lubricant for the water pump but it is pointless as boil over protection.
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