Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Sounds like it could be either radiator or fan - perhaps both. If you suspect it anyway (deposits) I'd try rad first - and then see what happens. Looks like you know what you'll be getting for the holiday...
Overheating problems
- Thread starter Ppower
- Start date
Michael Yount said:
Fan clutch was just replaced with new one and it's heavy duty style. Only difference is my old one was non-thermal activated it used silicone fluid vs the new one that is thermal activated. Paid freaking $103 for it, dang mechanic bought it...pissed me off when I found out how much it cost my old one was only $30 flex-a-lite...
After doing some research I have come to the conclusion that a 3 row core copper/brass radiator is way underrated for what I now have (don't think ford even sells a FRP copper/brass anymore they are all aluminum on the website now). Heck most 2 row core 1" row size aluminum radiators I have seen are only rated to 400hp range (like the Be Cool BCI-60087, Fluidyne FLD-FHP20-93MU, and the summit one). I was pushing around 440hp with my old engine! Plus, I have no heater core in my car, which is less surface area of heat transfer. And if I ran the car hard or in the summer sitting with the a/c on for long times with that one the temp would get to top of the M or bottom of the R in NORMAL which is about 205-210 degrees. Had it in my car for about 3 years and bought it used 1 1/2 years old, it has some deposits in it. I am going to replace the radiator with a Griffen 7-579BC-FXX it's rated for 600hp max is a 2 row core aluminum with 1.25" size rows. Run distilled water in it and anti-freeze 50/50 mix.
Does anyone know or have they used a high-pressure cap that is rated for 19psi vs the stock 16psi? I may get a new one of those instead of a 16psi one for the car. This article talks about them being used in open track racing vs using a 16psi one.
Edited to help clear up any confusion I might have caused.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/10978/
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
A little terminology tutorial.....
The cooling part of the radiator is called the core (or coil). It's usually constructed of aluminum or copper. So, if made of aluminum and if it has one ROW of fin tubes it's called a 1-row aluminum core. If it's made of copper and has 3 rows of fin tubes, it's called a 3-row copper core. Most oem aluminum core radiators have plastic tanks. Outfits like Fluidyne or Griffin usually have tanks made of aluminum also. Most copper core radiators have brass tanks.
Most folks do underestimate the copper core's capacity for heat rejection. If the dimensions of the core are the same (say 31"X19"), and the same number/type of fin tube rows are used (say 2 rows of 18 fin/inch tubes) the copper core will reject more heat than the aluminum core will. The chief advantages of the aluminum cores with plastic tanks are that 1) they weigh less than same-size copper core with brass tanks, and 2) the oem's can buy them from the manufacturers at lower cost than a similar copper unit.
I'd love to go aluminum to save the weight on mine -- but given the application, it means going with a custom aluminum rad - which gets really pricey. I had the local radiator shop take my Volvo diesel radiator and shell/frame - it's a standard copper core/brass side tanks construction - and refit it with a contemporary 18 fin/inch 2-row copper core. We offset the core towards the front of the tanks to gain 1/2" of fan clearance. We also found the newer 18 fin/inch 2-row core was 7/16" THINNER than the old 10 fin/inch 3-row core that the previous owner had put in. So altogether I gained almost an inch of fan clearance, and we gained about 25% more heat rejection capacity. Seems to be working fine dealing with more than stock HP, southern summers and a/c load.
The cooling part of the radiator is called the core (or coil). It's usually constructed of aluminum or copper. So, if made of aluminum and if it has one ROW of fin tubes it's called a 1-row aluminum core. If it's made of copper and has 3 rows of fin tubes, it's called a 3-row copper core. Most oem aluminum core radiators have plastic tanks. Outfits like Fluidyne or Griffin usually have tanks made of aluminum also. Most copper core radiators have brass tanks.
Most folks do underestimate the copper core's capacity for heat rejection. If the dimensions of the core are the same (say 31"X19"), and the same number/type of fin tube rows are used (say 2 rows of 18 fin/inch tubes) the copper core will reject more heat than the aluminum core will. The chief advantages of the aluminum cores with plastic tanks are that 1) they weigh less than same-size copper core with brass tanks, and 2) the oem's can buy them from the manufacturers at lower cost than a similar copper unit.
I'd love to go aluminum to save the weight on mine -- but given the application, it means going with a custom aluminum rad - which gets really pricey. I had the local radiator shop take my Volvo diesel radiator and shell/frame - it's a standard copper core/brass side tanks construction - and refit it with a contemporary 18 fin/inch 2-row copper core. We offset the core towards the front of the tanks to gain 1/2" of fan clearance. We also found the newer 18 fin/inch 2-row core was 7/16" THINNER than the old 10 fin/inch 3-row core that the previous owner had put in. So altogether I gained almost an inch of fan clearance, and we gained about 25% more heat rejection capacity. Seems to be working fine dealing with more than stock HP, southern summers and a/c load.
Michael Yount said:
Yep, totally understand that I think the reason why you see them listed as 3-core radiator is because it's short hand for 3 row core radiator, they just leave out the word "row" to shorten the description. I have seen it referenced this way in many catalogs and part listings.
The Griffen direct fit radiator I listed above for my car is going to set me back $475+shipping, so they are not cheap by any means.
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