oxy acetylene + control arm (need advice)

[Therian]

The problem is not so much that the bolt won't spin, rather that it won't come out. It's pretty common that the front bolts seize into the control arm sleeve if they haven't been moved in 13 years.

With the back nut removed, ideally the bolt should simply slide out. Reality is somewhat different, and even with a BFH it refuses to budge. My only option was to cut the suckers out.

It's all behind me now though. My method was probably somewhat similar to that of what I imagined Chris did.

1. Remove rear front control arm bolt (this one should come out smoothly - at least both of them did for me )

2. Waste 2-5 hours breaking sockets, bruising hands, getting PB blaster in your eye, etc trying to get the front bolt out.

3. Take an angle grinder or reciprocating saw to the arm, cutting it so that only the small part of the arm extending from the problem bolt remains.

4. By this point, you should be able to get the bolt to atleast spin, because you will have better access to hit it with a BFH.

5. Remove the nut on the back of the bolt

6. Spin the bolt (it will move what remains of the control arm with it) so that you have an optimal angle to get the grinder in there.

7. Grind away on the rightmost bushing, spinning the bolt as necessary for clearance. Try not to breathe in the burning bushing...and take it off as soon as you can so you don't breathe in more than necessary.

8. Once you get through the bolt, pry the sleeve towards the gap you have created with the grinder. This should give you sufficient clearance to cut the other side of the control arm bushing.

9. Install new control arm

 

[Therian]

This is for the FRONT control arm right? I hope so.... this sounds like a PITA. If I ever change mine, it'll be with a new K-member.

yes, front control arm.

Having gone through this, I would definitely be purchasing a new k-member next time and dropping it all at once. Unfortunately, at the time I was planning this, I didn't have the cash for an MM k-member. Being that I'm into open track more than drag, I'm not willing to settle for HAL, QA1, UPR, etc.

 

[HISSIN50]

Duncan, if it fits you, I might suggest pasting the last narrative of your tutorial into the How-To thread. Now that these cars are coming up on 15 years old, folks are going to start running into this, and having a nice reference of what works and doesnt would be helpful I bet.

I'm glad to hear you got it.

 

[94-302-vert]

WOW this sounds too similar... So did you also spend the $50 on new nuts/bolts at a dealer???

As for breaking the nuts loose what I have found to work EXTREMELY well is to heat the nut just a bit (15 seconds with Mapp gas) then cool it with penetrating oil.. the heat pulls the oil right in jsut like you are brazing...

The problem is not so much that the bolt won't spin, rather that it won't come out. It's pretty common that the front bolts seize into the control arm sleeve if they haven't been moved in 13 years.

With the back nut removed, ideally the bolt should simply slide out. Reality is somewhat different, and even with a BFH it refuses to budge. My only option was to cut the suckers out.

It's all behind me now though. My method was probably somewhat similar to that of what I imagined Chris did.

1. Remove rear front control arm bolt (this one should come out smoothly - at least both of them did for me )

2. Waste 2-5 hours breaking sockets, bruising hands, getting PB blaster in your eye, etc trying to get the front bolt out.

3. Take an angle grinder or reciprocating saw to the arm, cutting it so that only the small part of the arm extending from the problem bolt remains.

4. By this point, you should be able to get the bolt to atleast spin, because you will have better access to hit it with a BFH.

5. Remove the nut on the back of the bolt

6. Spin the bolt (it will move what remains of the control arm with it) so that you have an optimal angle to get the grinder in there.

7. Grind away on the rightmost bushing, spinning the bolt as necessary for clearance. Try not to breathe in the burning bushing...and take it off as soon as you can so you don't breathe in more than necessary.

8. Once you get through the bolt, pry the sleeve towards the gap you have created with the grinder. This should give you sufficient clearance to cut the other side of the control arm bushing.

9. Install new control arm

 

[Therian]

Duncan, if it fits you, I might suggest pasting the last narrative of your tutorial into the How-To thread. Now that these cars are coming up on 15 years old, folks are going to start running into this, and having a nice reference of what works and doesnt would be helpful I bet.

I'm glad to hear you got it.

Good Idea JT. I'll add in some of tips that other guys shared also. I wouldn't want anyone to go into this blind. It can be frustrating when you're not sure what works and what doesn't.

WOW this sounds too similar... So did you also spend the $50 on new nuts/bolts at a dealer???

Luckily, I only had to destroy two bolts (the fronts on each side), and I was able to save all of the nuts also. I plan to take a bolt and nut into fastenal/spanaeur (they've got a massive warehouse near me full of nuts and bolts ). If they can't match it up for me, I'll have no choice but to shell out $10 (CAD$) a pop for new bolts.

 

[mackey]

Ahh.. thats actually not a bad idea, I never tried it but maybe if I'm ever in this sort of scenario I'd give it a try. If you heat at least part of the bolt till its glowing bright red for a couple of minutes, then remove the flame and IMMEDIATELY douce the hot metal in lots of cold water, you cause a localized martensitic transformation, which should make the metal brittle enough to just snap the bolt in half with a breaker bar. Good call.

Or it will cause quenching which will make the bolt MUCH harder. I believe he meant heat the bolt up enough and then try and turn it while it is still really hot.

 

[The Green GT]

Best advice.


Dont **** it up.