p/s relocate vs. pulley

[iLkYsPoNy]

I'm contemplating putting an underdrive pulley set on my 1992 Mustang Gt 5.0. The only debate would be with that setup would it be more worthwhile to use the a/c eliminator kit that relocates the power steering pump or the kit that puts just a pulley in it's spot while leaving everything in it's stock location.

Also on another note, whats the best way to go about putting a cold air kit on with my MAF? Do I need to step up the MAF sensor in any way for the increased flow?

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Well if you wanna be technical....a shorter belt is actually what frees up any hp from ditching the AC since the AC pully is free spinning when it's not engaged, so by keeping that pully there you're not doing much by dropping AC except for the weight. Run a shorter belt and you'll see more improvement.

As for the CAI, i'm a carb guy sorry

 

[Foxfan88]

usually a cold air kit is more for looks. you will not gain enough flow to warrant a MAF upgrade. the stock air intake is fine and lots of people still run with my modded engines.

the only small gain u may get is from going to a smoother tube, rather than the ribbed rubber one. but u shouldnt feel much of a difference.

on the pullies, once again the A/C delete is mostly a looks deal. but u do lose some weight. there is a gain but small and its from the weight mostly. not the freed up power. bc hte AC freewheels at WOT anyways.


i would just get the P/S relocator kit, gives you a cleaner look and just is better.

buying the idler pulley is just dumb to me, all your doing is replacing the ugly A/C with an even uglier pulley. nothing looks dumber than a pulley just sitting there.

 

[iLkYsPoNy]

okay so basically the best power adder and the easiest on the eyes would be to relocate the power steering pump? sounds like a plan.
so a cold air intake doesn't add power ( 10-14 hp ) like the ad says? how could they lie about such a thing!

basically at this point im looking for anything to add some hp here and there so when i do the intake,cam,heads and such im a little ahead of the game ya know. on a side note, is it best to upgrade fuel rails, pump, regulator, injectors when going to a setup like that that edelbrock or trick flow ( track/street heat ) offers?

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Like said above, the CAI on a stock engine isn't going to do much good, but i would at least get an K+N for the stock filter housing. If you can get a CAI for cheap, i'd say go for it if you have the cash because down the road they can make a difference compared to stock, but it's not going to be a seat of the pants kind of feeling.

 

[$uperstang]

usually a cold air kit is more for looks. you will not gain enough flow to warrant a MAF upgrade. the stock air intake is fine and lots of people still run with my modded engines.

i would just get the P/S relocator kit, gives you a cleaner look and just is better.

buying the idler pulley is just dumb to me, all your doing is replacing the ugly A/C with an even uglier pulley. nothing looks dumber than a pulley just sitting there.

Disagree check my sig for how cool the idle pulley looks in place of the A/C system. Who wants a big ole power steering pump up in their face when you open the hood, hey but to each his own. Also as far as the CAI you should get one with the combo you are planing on but the only one worth paying for is the ANDERSON POWERPIPE like the one you see in my engine bay Or just get a K&N filter for your panel box and be done with it, works just as good. Also if you are just doing a hci swap you can still use your 19lb injectors and stock rails but I would get a 190lph fuel pump, you will need that. Also get 24lb injectors if you want to add more power down the road.

 

[Sicarius428]

Typically underdrive pullies are not worth the hastle. You can run into charging and cooling problems or both. The A/C really doesn't eat up much if any power because unless you turn it on, it just free wheels there. Like the others say you are going to replace one ugly object with another and the gains are minimal if any other than weight... if it were a race car is ideal though. There also isn't a noticeable gain in a CAI especially considering the cost of most setups. The factory setup is a CAI so just put a K&N replacement filter and you pretty much accomplished the same thing unless you want to change the looks which is understandable. The stock fuel rails are good up to about 400 HP but you might want to upgrade the fuel pump to a 190 or 255 depending on what future mods you are planning. I recommend Walbro fuel pumps. Most aftermarket(holley for example) rebox walbro pumps so check around for a good price. Another thing which isn't bad is to have an adjustable fuel regulator when you do the H/I/C. I recommend a kirban unit which is really good. Your 19 lbs injectors will befine for a H/I/C. The stock 19s are good till the 320ish HP level. With that said I have UD pullies(came with the car but have a high volume water pump and 3g alt. to compensate), CAI(clean up the engine compartment to relocate the MSD box) and 24 lbs injectors and calibrated pro-m maf(got a hell of a deal on them). hehe
Kevin

 

[iLkYsPoNy]

well my next upgrades are going to be the Trick Flow Street Heat kit which is supposed to put out 360hp/370ft lb . but thats all configured with 24lb injectors and a bigger MAC and a few other things. So would i be better off going with 30lb injectors just for the pure sake of doing it? or would that be a wasted investment? im planning on upgrading the pump and regulator when i go with the TF top end kit, so i got that covered, but the fuel rails should be ok? you said they're good up to about 400 hp, by the way the car has 91k, so if im within 30-40 hp of 400 i should just do the upgrade, right? I was thinking of going to a 75mm throttle body with a space as well, don't know if the spacer is worth it because i've heard it go both ways.

 

[Sicarius428]

Go for the track heat heads. I wish I did because they have better valve springs which prevent valve float at high rpm. 24's and a calibrated 75mm maf wouldn't be a bad idea if you are going that route. I used my stock 19s for a while and put my fuel pressure at 45psi to comensate which worked fine. I did my H/I/C at 130k because the head gasket blew and figured if i was going to go that far might as well upgrade. Not sure if the spacer hurts or helps. Either way its going to be minimal and living in CA I needed it to be CARB legal. Looks like you should be good though.
Kevin

 

[iLkYsPoNy]

now that you mention it, the track heat heads are only like another 200 dollars. where can i get a calibrated mass air sensor?

 

[Sicarius428]

I got mine off ebay with the injectors. I suggest sticking with a pro-m as far as a company even though they have been bought out by pro flow. Don't get the plastic tubing one either. The one I had for my 19s cracked along the seam.
Kevin

 

[Maryland Stang]

Back to the P/S mounting, I used the March P/S pulley mount and it's easy to do and under $100. It moves the pump in a little closer to the engine and removes all of the massive A/C P/S bracket mess. It's very clean looking and keeps the pump low on the engine. I also used the March alternator mount that removes the tensioner pulley, alternator mount and moves the alternator closer to the engine. Since I must retain my air pump I did have to modify (removed a large portion) the original bracket. You can hardly see the bracket now. I can provide pics if you like.