PA-Performance 3G Install...

[66 Restomod]

I'm installing the 95amp 3G in my 66 this weekend... I bought the wiring kit to integrate with the stock stuff. Anyone have a blog or writeup that covers this particular alternator from PA-Performance? I'm not too electrical if you know what I mean, don't want to burn the car to the ground... My main questions are: where do I crimp the green/red wire that comes in the kit? Where do I install the stock ground wires from the stock alternator harness? Do I install the stock hot wires at the B+ terminal under the big fat positive cable they supply? Is the stock field wire used? Maybe I leave some of the stock alternator harness out. Sorry for the lame questions....

 

[Tim65GT]

Here's the info I used:

I got my first 3G from a '94 Mustang GT (130A) which had the same 7" between the mount holes. The Taurus Alt has 8 1/2", which requires the mod to the lower mounting bracket.

I have my battery in the trunk, so I put the 150A fuse back there.
I also ran the yellow/white sense wire back there to get the voltage at the battery to make up for any voltage drop through the 4 gauge charge wire.

Q: Where do I crimp the green/red wire that comes in the kit?
A: The green/black wire goes to ignition power with a slight resistance to simulate the alt lamp. You can use your existing lamp or just go to Radio Shack and get around a 560 ohm resistor.

You can remove your existing external voltage regulator box, as the 3G is internaly regulated. You can tie the white feild wire and the green/red wires together there and use the white wire in your alternator harness to crimp to the green/red wire from the kit. you can put the resistor in any where along the path.

Q: Where do I install the stock ground wires from the stock alternator harness?
A: My alternator is grounded from the case to the engine block by the mounting bolt only. You can remove them or tape them up. Just make sure you have a good ground from the battery to the engine.

Q: Do I install the stock hot wires at the B+ terminal under the big fat positive cable they supply?
A: Yes

Q: Is the stock field wire used?
A: No, see above

The diagram below should help:

 

[66 Restomod]

Wow, thanks!

Thanks for all the info, this helps!

I have to deviate a bit since the kit I bought includes a modified external regulator that supposedly "completes the circuit", allowing it to be plugged into the stock harness on the radiator core support. (I guess this is the same as your guidance to tie the white field and green/red wires together at that harness after unplugging.) I didn't need the mounting space for anything so I thought it would still look stock this way.

After looking at the new alternator a little more, there is an open threaded bolt hole on the back that coresponds to the ground symbol in your image. I think i will try to use my ground wire from the original harness, I think it's a double wire that's black/red, and put a larger eyelet on it and attach it to the back of the alternator with a new bolt. I guess it shouldn't cause a problem? Not sure of any benefit but I figure why not since the wires have to stay back there anyway. (I do have aluminum heads so the bracket might not be grounded as well as it could be anyway.)

You said "use the white wire in your alternator harness to crimp to the green/red wire from the kit. you can put the resistor in any where along the path." I think the white wire in the harness previously went to the field post if I'm thinking of the right one. So I simply cut it, and crimp it to the new green/red wire in my kit? But I'm stumped on the resistor in between, I have a 66 with the stock ammeter and I believe no warning light. Maybe I don't need a resistor? (PA told me that the stock gauge won't function as intended but the needle will move so I will know when the system is charging, not sure this is related?)

But here are links to what I bought, probably should have included them from the start, sorry:

alternator:
PA-Performance is dedicated to offering high quality products to every consumer utilizing the Internet. - PA Performance - You Only Buy Quality Once ! 1.877.471.8010

regulator wiring:
PA-Performance is dedicated to offering high quality products to every consumer utilizing the Internet. - PA Performance - You Only Buy Quality Once ! 1.877.471.8010

power wire:
PA-Performance is dedicated to offering high quality products to every consumer utilizing the Internet. - PA Performance - You Only Buy Quality Once ! 1.877.471.8010

So I guess the resistor is my only remaining source of confusion, but I'm most of the way there... Thanks!

 

[raleighstang65]

Not sure if this problem would occur (or if anyone else has run into this) with a 3G alt. but I tried to install a 2G alt. on my 65' 289 and the belt alignment was way off . You may want to mock it up before you get too far into it and realize you need a different bracket or something. I have a billet alt. bracket in the garage that I bought for the 2G that I'm not using if you're interested in checking it out. Just let me know.

 

[Tim65GT]

I have to deviate a bit since the kit I bought includes a modified external regulator that supposedly "completes the circuit", allowing it to be plugged into the stock harness on the radiator core support. (I guess this is the same as your guidance to tie the white field and green/red wires together at that harness after unplugging.) I didn't need the mounting space for anything so I thought it would still look stock this way.

After looking at the new alternator a little more, there is an open threaded bolt hole on the back that coresponds to the ground symbol in your image. I think i will try to use my ground wire from the original harness, I think it's a double wire that's black/red, and put a larger eyelet on it and attach it to the back of the alternator with a new bolt. I guess it shouldn't cause a problem? Not sure of any benefit but I figure why not since the wires have to stay back there anyway. (I do have aluminum heads so the bracket might not be grounded as well as it could be anyway.)

You said "use the white wire in your alternator harness to crimp to the green/red wire from the kit. you can put the resistor in any where along the path." I think the white wire in the harness previously went to the field post if I'm thinking of the right one. So I simply cut it, and crimp it to the new green/red wire in my kit? But I'm stumped on the resistor in between, I have a 66 with the stock ammeter and I believe no warning light. Maybe I don't need a resistor? (PA told me that the stock gauge won't function as intended but the needle will move so I will know when the system is charging, not sure this is related?)

The upgrade kit may have the resistor built in. There should be some kind of installation instructions with the kit. If not, I would call PA performance and ask.

Make sure you inspect the original wiring for loose terminals, corrosion, cracked or melted insulation before using. You can use the original Blk/Red wire for a ground if it's in good shape.

I wouldn't expect the original amp gauge to be very accurate, if it doesn't smoke or works at all. I would do as the kit description states:

" direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternators"

Once it's running, put a voltmeter at the battery and check to make sure the system is charging between 13.5 and 14.5 Volts. Turn on lights and accessories and the voltage should remain constant.

 

[66 Restomod]

I wouldn't expect the original amp gauge to be very accurate, if it doesn't smoke or works at all. I would do as the kit description states:

" direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternators"

I talked to PA and they told me I should have had a ground bolt in the kit for the back of the alternator but it was probably just forgotten. So I grabbed one at lunch to use. They also had told me the ammeter should be ok but inaccurate (for the 95amp alternator I bought), but now I think i should just unplug it. Can I unplug it from the engine bay somewhere so that the current doesn't travel to the gauge behind the dash?

 

[Tim65GT]

I talked to PA and they told me I should have had a ground bolt in the kit for the back of the alternator but it was probably just forgotten. So I grabbed one at lunch to use. They also had told me the ammeter should be ok but inaccurate (for the 95amp alternator I bought), but now I think i should just unplug it. Can I unplug it from the engine bay somewhere so that the current doesn't travel to the gauge behind the dash?

Yes

The main power feed under the dash (Fuse box, Ignition switch, and Light Switch) is via the Yellow wire from the back of the alternator (which changes to a Black/Yellow wire). Make sure this wire is good.

There are two Black/yellow wires going out the + output terminal of the alternator:

1. One goes to one side of the amp gage. This can be disconnected.
2. The other to the B+ side of the Solenoid. You won't need this either, because you will be using the 4 gauge wire and fuse in the kit.

The other side of the amp gage (should be a Red wire) loops around and makes its way back to the B+ side of the Solenoid.

All these wires should be the larger 10 or 12 gauge wires.

All this info is from schematic diagrams that someone scanned from a shop manual and posted on the web, So there is always the possiblity of wrong info.
If you don't feel comfortable, maybe you could get someone who is a little more electrically inclined to check some of the wiring with a multimeter.

 

[66 Restomod]

Yes
If you don't feel comfortable, maybe you could get someone who is a little more electrically inclined to check some of the wiring with a multimeter.

Yeah I agree, I think I will reinstall the stock alternator tonight and take the car and the kit to the local alternator and starter place next week. I suspect they will still need to know some misc wire colors so this info has really helped me. I thought the PA-Performance kit's directions would be a little less generic out of the box, but like I said I'm not big into the electrical stuff.