PA Performance alternator wiring kit

[mustangdaren]

Is anyone using the PA Performance standard 4 gauge wiring upgrade kit with the 200 amp fuse for your 3g upgrade? I was wondering if it would be ok to use the upgrade by itself and completely remove the two 10 gauge factory wires? My 3g took a crap today and took out my fusable link in the process. I had planned to upgrade the wiring but never got around to it, now I have to.

 

[Grn92LX]

Yes, thats how you properly do it. You do not use the 10G wires. Just do what I did and heat shrink the 2 10G wires so they don't short anything out and discard them.

 

[HISSIN50]

I am with Mike. I will note that people are debating me on the Corral about this very issue on a current thread. I still stand by my previous statements, which concur with Mike's thoughts (dont connect the stock charge wires on your new alt).

Chances are that if something takes out the 4 AWG cable's fuse, the stock cable's fusible link will be consumed as well (it sounds like that is what Happened Daren, no?). So I see no reason to leave those stock wires connected to the alt.

Good luck.

 

[mustangdaren]

The reason I asked is that on PA Performances website is says the kit is not intended to replace the factory wiring but that it could be used by itself on a off road or race application where no previous wiring existed. I figure that is just to cover their butts in case of a problem. My alternator died after only 3000 miles thanks to a leaking water pump gasket. The alternator is moved to the bottom of the motor due to the s/c bracket which I say Vortech should have put a little more thought into because you have to remove the supercharger and bracket to be able to remove the top alternator bolt. Something I thought I could easily do in the parking lot cost me a tow bill back to the house due to that b/s.

 

[8950HO]

This is the correct way to do it.

Do not cut the factory spade connector wires period and connect those two 10 guage wires to the 3g.

Leave the factory spade connector intact and push a 18-22 guage spade connector into the stator terminal on the factory spade connector for the stator wire hook up for the 3g.(a quick splice connector could also be used).

Run a 4ga cable from the 3g output terminal to a 175amp Mega Fuse then to the starter solenoid.

I made my own 4ga power wire.Just measure it out and buy the correct cable eyelets...1/4" for the 3g alternator output post and 5/16" for the other eyelets.And crimp the eyelets to the cable using a heavy duty crimping tool available at most electrical supply stores,for rent or in store use.

Edit;PA Performance should revise their instructions.

 

[timewarped1972]

yes.......for some un known reason, PA performance wiring instructions tell you to wire up the 10 ga black and orange wires.

it shouldn't be done this way i think thats all but been proven, and would be if we had a (3G STICKY, LOL).......

 

[mustangdaren]

4 guage is rated at 135 amps. A single 10 gauge wire is 55 amps. 2 10 gauge would be 110 amps. Wish I would have bought the summit kit. It is 1/0 gauge at 1/2 the price of the PA Performance kit. The four gauge should be fine but is on the hairy edge, guess that is why they say leave the two 10 gauge wires also. Either way, the car ran for 3 years with just the two 10 gauge wires so the 4 gauge will do for now.

 

[8950HO]

4 guage is rated at 135 amps. A single 10 gauge wire is 55 amps. 2 10 gauge would be 110 amps. Wish I would have bought the summit kit. It is 1/0 gauge at 1/2 the price of the PA Performance kit. The four gauge should be fine but is on the hairy edge, guess that is why they say leave the two 10 gauge wires also. Either way, the car ran for 3 years with just the two 10 gauge wires so the 4 gauge will do for now.

The thing is those two 10ga factory wires on the factory spade connector connect together and get spliced into one 10ga wire further down in the wiring harness.
Those two 10ga wires end up going into one 10ga wire to the solenoid.

4ga wire should be adequate for a 3g.

 

[HISSIN50]

Daren, I kicked around ideas on wiring too (I also would have used the Summit kit had I known about it. A bud used it and now I recommend it).

Here is another angle. I considered 2 AWG but then two things dawned on me (I am obviously not an EE). The battery cable on my fox appears to be 4 AWG. I saw no need to run a greater gauge alt cable than my battery cable. Furthermore, the stock alt cable on my 94 GT appears to be 6 AWG. The battery cable is 4 AWG on that (factory cable for a factory 3G car). I dont think we run with the alt's at full tilt too often. And if we did have a huge draw, we have a fuse to protect things.

That's just my humble take on why 4 AWG is fine for the application, though I agree that the Summit kit is cool.

 

[onefstsnake]

anyone have a link for the Summit kit?

I searched forever even using the PN's out of their cataloge and found nothing...

But for now Im running my 130A 3G on the stock wires.

Havent had any problems yet.

 

[HISSIN50]

anyone have a link for the Summit kit?

I searched forever even using the PN's out of their cataloge and found nothing...

But for now Im running my 130A 3G on the stock wires.

Havent had any problems yet.

I think it's
SUM-890026-1

Someone had trouble finding it online last week or so, but it's still in the new paper catalog I got.

 

[onefstsnake]

I think it's
SUM-890026-1

Someone had trouble finding it online last week or so, but it's still in the new paper catalog I got.

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...890026-1&N=-42153+-128236+310414&autoview=sku

its N/A!!! WTH

 

[srothfuss]

I'm bringing this back up to report the bad news. Summit no longer carries this wiring kit. I just called this morning to order it and was told it's not stocked any longer.

The PA kit or the local audio store seems to be our only choices now.

 

[mustangdaren]

anyone have a link for the Summit kit?

I searched forever even using the PN's out of their cataloge and found nothing...

But for now Im running my 130A 3G on the stock wires.

Havent had any problems yet.

I'd get you an upgrade kit pretty soon. Most likely the cause of my alternator failure was the wiring from it to the solenoid shorted to ground due to insulation breakdown. A $45 wiring kit is a lot better than a $260 alternator and even worse, your car due to a fire.

 

[HISSIN50]

Steve, thanks for posting that. Now we can pass the word since that kit was well-liked.

That figures.

 

[srothfuss]

Yeah, As soon as I learned about the summit kit I was really excited. There is no way I want to pay the $50.+ dollars for 6 feet of 4 gauge wire and a fuse holder from PA. Tonight, I am going to my local audio shop that sells 4 gauge wire at $2.00 a foot. I'll post up my total to compare the results when I get the receipt.

 

[jrichker]

Build your own wiring kit...


See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064

And don't forget the extra ground...

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

 

[srothfuss]

Thanks for reminding me about the extra ground.

Here is my shopping list for the audio store:
1 Fuse
1 In line Fuse block (holder)
4' of 4 gauge black ground wire
8' of 4 gauge red power wire
6 ring terminals (I'll probably get 8 to have some spare)
I have plenty of heat shrink

I know that we have talked about the block to chasis ground, but I just want to make sure I get it right when I do this. This ground is the one inbetween the battery and the solienoid. Is that correct?

 

[8950HO]

The 4ga ground wire goes from the engine block to the frame.
I used the empty 7/16" hole on the front driver side E7 head to the sway bar mounting bolts.You could also run it from where the negative battery cable connects to the block,then to the sway bar bolts.

 

[srothfuss]

Thanks!