PA Performance alternator wiring kit

The PA kit is good. I have it in my 92 LX and have had no issues. I will check into that ground as jrichkter recommends.

Anyway...one word of advice...when buying wire, make sure you get automotive grade insulation like XLP (crosslinked polyethelene) that meets SAE J1128. It meets the temperature and fluid resistance requirements of automotive applications.

soylentgreen said:

The PA kit is good. I have it in my 92 LX and have had no issues. I will check into that ground as jrichkter recommends.

Anyway...one word of advice...when buying wire, make sure you get automotive grade insulation like XLP (crosslinked polyethelene) that meets SAE J1128. It meets the temperature and fluid resistance requirements of automotive applications.

Click to expand...

Which PA kit did you get? The long one?

Was it pretty easy to wire it all up?

Thanks

I don't recall exactly which kit I got. But, yeah, it was pretty easy to install. No problems.

I personally have had great success with the FFI kit.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67

Just to add.
When I made my own wiring harness,I also bought 1/2" black plastic wire loom to cover the 4ga wire.
(I put 1/4" wire loom on the stator wire also).

Just an update: I spent $75.00 on everything listed in my "parts list" post. That should be enough wire to do the 3G, grounds for the block, and update my battery lead (to the solenoid)

I wish there was a place around here that sold wire for cheap...

all the audio places want like $5-8 per foot of the thick stuff.

jrichker- do you have a diagram of the alternator wiring?

Also, does anyone know if the PA upgrade includes everything I need? Or would I still need to make a few wires.

onefstsnake said:

I wish there was a place around here that sold wire for cheap...

all the audio places want like $5-8 per foot of the thick stuff.

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Why would you go to an audio place?
Go to your local auto parts store and buy bulk 4ga battery cable.It`s much cheaper than buying the ripoff audio store crap.

You`ll need roughly 9ft for a fox body.

9' for which wire? Or is this all of them.

Thanks

One thing to consider is that the stereo cables have very very fine strand wire in them, whereas the parts store cables have horse-wire in them.

onefstsnake said:

9' for which wire? Or is this all of them.

Thanks

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9ft roughly for the whole thing including where you splice in the Mega Fuse holder.
I put the Mega Fuse holder on the frame rail right about under the solenoid then ran the wire up to the solenoid.

I took a long piece of string and measured out the distance for the wiring.

The long Pa-Performance kit for fox bodies is I think 109 inches including the fuse which is pretty much 9ft.

here is a pic of the wiring setup. just ignore the 2 10 awg wires and add the fused 4 awg instead.

First of all I believe you are all paying too much for an alternator. This guy sells the 36 on ebay for like $100. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Must...33573QQitemZ8051051917QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I bought a 6g from him. It elminates hooking up a stator wire and runs it all internally. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...33573QQitemZ8050867465QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

very stand up guy. Shipped when he said it would. Sent me directions on the install via email before I got the package so I could read up on it as well as included the instructions with the alternator. He thought that the 2 orange and black wires went into the dash and that they should be used. But if you guys are saying they just run back to the solenoid then I will just chop them completely out. I plan on ordering my stuff from parts express. I bought from them before (door actuators, thanks jrichter) and had the best experience.

where did everyone mount their fuse at??where in the line and where on the car.

I'll be mounting my fuse like 8950HO. Either on the rear side of the battery tray or in that area on the sheet metal. I'll have to mock up the routing before I make a final decision

I choose the audio cable because it's price is comperable to that of the PA premium kit. Plus I don't have to wait for shipping. I can litteraly walk to this stereo shop and get any supplies that I might have forgotten. Both audio wire and the PA kit use a smaller strand (more thin wires vs. fewer thick wires) than the standard battery cable stuff. This makes the wire more flexable and easier to route around all of the exisiting components in the engine bay. Everyone does it differnet and this was the method I selected.

i recently lost all my bookmarks and was wondering if anyone had a link to a site that explains how to do the 3G upgrade? i had a good site..i just remember the guy had a nice all maroon 88/89 GT

DemonGT said:

i recently lost all my bookmarks and was wondering if anyone had a link to a site that explains how to do the 3G upgrade? i had a good site..i just remember the guy had a nice all maroon 88/89 GT

Click to expand...

As requested...

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.