painting car need help orange peel

I'm not a paint & body guy, but orange peel happens when the paint starts to dry before it hits the surface. Usually it is the result of holding the spray gun too far away or using too much air. I have seen new Mercedes Benz sedans with orange peel paint, so don't feel bad. You may have to sand and completely re-paint the bad areas.
 
You really only want to do it with 1200-1500 grit with a handblock. I would definitely not go any coarser than 1000. Back it up with 3M Perfect-It products.

I'm just an amatuer, but you can see the peel that I had to get out of my vert in the sig pics and how it came out afterwards. That was 1200.
 
Don't get frustrated - I have painted several cars - single stage acrylic enamel is my paint of choice - it is easy to work with and fix later on but some people swear by base/clear. I assume you painted it single stage - don't be afraid to try different things - you can always fix it if you mess up - try different stuff in areas that are easy to mask out and re-shoot. I like to start on heavy orange peel with FRESH 800 grit wet sand paper with LOTS OF WATER with soap in it and block it down just a bit and then step up to FRESH 1000 grit for a little more blocking then FRESH 1500 grit for a little more blocking then FRESH 2000 grit for a little more blocking - I may end there or if I am trying to burn an edge in I will even go 3000 grit. After all that sanding I like to go over it with medium cut high quality liquid rubbing compound and then to a high quality high gloss finishing compound - I like to leave a little light orange peel in my finished product to give it that "factory" look but that is up to the owner - I am nuts I guess - I really enjoy rubbing a car out by hand and watching the results start to pop - I take my time on a car I don't have to drive daily and do a little every night after work in the garage - maybe just the side of a fender for one night and another part the next night so I don't get burned out and sloppy.
 
Im assuming your shooting with base/ clear. If you shot alot of clear you can get away with starting with 800 grit, then 1000, 1500 and finally 2000. An average base/ clear paint job starts with 1000 grit. Always start with coarse and work your way to fine. same goes with buffing compound. If your lazy on a step then you have to start all over. When you wet sand, do small circles and be sure to use a backing-pad. wet sand with a little dish soap added to the water in a squirt bottle. Use a squeege to see your progress. If you take your time it will come out looking like glass. I hope this helps.
 
I made a new thread that has ALL of the steps that we follow over at my body shop. It is very detailed, and you will most likely be SUCCESSFUL if you follow them, using your brain and being gentle with the paint. I hope that the step by step helps you and Anyone else that needs it. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PAINT -

If I only knew engines as good as I knew paint. My experience is about 6 years of doing this every day, not always to an entire car, some times just a few panels, or a side, etc.. but I follow this procedure to the TEE every single day except sundays of my life. And i've developed my own methods of speed and working the buffer, as will you. GOOD LUCK AGAIN !!!
 
no you can buff it out tommorow - just be careful. I rarely deal with this situation, so be aware taht the clear used for paint may have been cheap, and be aware that the clear used may just be worn, but your best bet is to gently wet sand a small area, and buff it out to see the outcome. GOOD LUCK!