Part of the hole where my upper intake bolt goes through broke off...

90_Red_LX

Member
Sep 29, 2003
668
5
19
Asheboro, NC
So part of the upper intake where the bolt runs through broke off. The majority of the hole is still there and there isn't any threads in it. I believe it will still hold a bolt as long as it doesn't have to be torqued down or anything. As long is it will keep the upper and lower together, I'm happy. I can try to get pics if my camera will cooperate. If it won't work, I doubt I could get it welded or anything could I?
 
If you are speaking of one of the ears that take the bolts, they break fairly often, you can have it welded.

But if you still have a stock intake, get another one.
 
2000xp8 said:
If you are speaking of one of the ears that take the bolts, they break fairly often, you can have it welded.

But if you still have a stock intake, get another one.

I guess it's the ear, it's just a hole at the bottom of the upper intake where the bolt runs through so the head of the bolt can tighten it together I guess. Dunno how to really explain it.

The intake is a Performer RPM that I picked up today.

Approximately how much would it cost to have it welded? It may not actually need it, but I'd feel better knowing that little piece is on there.

Also, does anyone have the torque ratings for the intake? I have the sequence but nothing on what to torque the bolts to. I assume you only torque the lower, as it appears theres no way in hell you can get a torque wrench on the upper bolts. Thanks!
 
Should cost you much to have it welded. When you said it broke i figured it was an edelbrock.

I can't remember the torque specs off hand.
 
I had that happen to my 302 Cobra manifold years ago.
My theory is that it was due to me not loosening the bolts (when removing the manifold) in the proper sequence. If there is just a slight warp to the upper and the outside bolts are removed last, it can put some stress on that weak point. Also if the manifold is still warm when the bolts are removed the shape of the manifold will be preloaded due to thermal expansion (thicker parts will cool slower). Another possible factor is the phenolic spacer I was using, which may have increased stress on the ear due to differing thermal expansion characteristics.
Do any of these explanations make sense to your application?

When mine broke, I did have it welded by a small time local welder, then took it to my favorite machine shop for some surfacing. I don't remember the expense, but it was worth it to preserve the manifold.

Good Luck
jason
 
90_Red_LX said:
Well I mean it's in good shape other than that one little piece. I was just curious if it would've been better in the long run if I just picked up a new upper.

That depends almost entirely on the quality of the welding done. I would think a good repair would still provide many years of enjoyment for you. I sold mine after getting it repaired, and went with a box upper.
 
It can be repaired in a way that it's still serviceable. Any good machine shop can do it for you. And it does need to be repaired - with only 6 bolts holding the upper on, the lack of one can lead to a vacuum leak, not to mention the unbalanced stress it puts on the other 5.

Did you break it installing it or did you buy it broken? Did the seller advertise it as being broken? Be sure you got what you paid for. It was probably over-torqued during installation. Happens all the times with uppers and lowers. These castings are actually quite weak. People over-tighten them and break them frequently. Happened to my Explorer intake, but it was professionally repaired and you can't tell anything ever happened.

DO NOT exceed 18-20 ft-lbs. on the lower intake, and no more than 10-12 ft-lbs. on the upper intake.

And JB weld won't get the job done here.