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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

parts list for 5-lug conversion please!

  • Thread starter Thread starter BRADY5.0
  • Start date Start date Feb 13, 2004

BRADY5.0

New Member
Dec 24, 2002
54
0
0
NEW JERSEY
Feb 13, 2004
#1
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #1
can you guys give me a detailed parts list for a conversion on a 92 -5.0
the rims i will be looking to put on are going to be the bullit style

shanks
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
3,514
1
0
Massachusetts
Feb 13, 2004
#2
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #2
SN95 spindles, with brakes
ranger drums, and axles...

go here
http://svo73mm.cjb.net/
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Feb 13, 2004
#3
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #3
There are a few ways you can do it. Which method is up to you. Read the above website. Don't just skim through it but really sit down one night and red every last word on that page. Most everything you need to know is on it.

btw...nice avatar Blackfox
 
P

PRO50SC

New Member
Dec 28, 2003
1,012
1
0
Olney, Maryland
Feb 13, 2004
#4
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #4
Check this site.
5 lug conversion
 
S

SmockDoiley

New Member
Jun 14, 2003
1,591
2
0
San Diego, CA
Feb 13, 2004
#5
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #5
just buy 5-lug rotors from any place like themustangdepot.com. I bought the slotted rotors for $65, and then go to a yard and get the ranger axles for a few bucks. It has to be 2 of the same side, forgot which one but check the above site. Then get drums from a parts store since you dont want some used junkyard crapfor brakes. You could easily do the swap for under $130 if you dont mind running drums in the back. SN95 gear is good but it can be a pain changing the spindles since you need to get some spacers, and you need tools like a pickle fork and a jack and stuff, plus everybody charges an arm for SN95 brake stuff.
 
P

PRO50SC

New Member
Dec 28, 2003
1,012
1
0
Olney, Maryland
Feb 13, 2004
#6
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #6
SmockDoiley said:
just buy 5-lug rotors from any place like themustangdepot.com. I bought the slotted rotors for $65, and then go to a yard and get the ranger axles for a few bucks. It has to be 2 of the same side, forgot which one but check the above site. Then get drums from a parts store since you dont want some used junkyard crapfor brakes. You could easily do the swap for under $130 if you dont mind running drums in the back. SN95 gear is good but it can be a pain changing the spindles since you need to get some spacers, and you need tools like a pickle fork and a jack and stuff, plus everybody charges an arm for SN95 brake stuff.
Click to expand...
Those 5 lug rotors will not work with the bullit wheels he plans on using. There is not enough depth in the wheel to accommidate the bearing dust cap. I found out the hard way!!! The sn95 is the way to go. I bought spindles, calipers and slides, and rotors for $150.00. As for the spacers I usedthe washers recommended in the artichle I posted. The rear I bought the rear axle conversion kit from Mustangs Unlimited for $220.00 including shipping. It came w/ axles and studs, drums and grease seals. It was made by FRP.
 

Adam Dugger

Founding Member
Nov 15, 2000
584
1
18
Long Island, NY
Feb 13, 2004
#7
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #7
check my site for a full tech article both on the initial conversion and the upgrade to cobra fronts. I think its funny that the guys with upgraded brakes all have their wheels in their sigs.. lol
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
3,514
1
0
Massachusetts
Feb 13, 2004
#8
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #8
Hey c'mon When I put my front wheels on, with the cobra brakes I'll be updating my avatar again

edit: I see you just changed your avatar Adam, you hypocrite j/k
 

Adam Dugger

Founding Member
Nov 15, 2000
584
1
18
Long Island, NY
Feb 13, 2004
#9
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #9
ROFL! Ive had it on the corral as my avatar for a while.. but Stangnet requires a different image size... so I forgot to upload the updated one here..

I'll tell ya.. going from GT to Cobra fronts was about as pronounced a difference as going from fox to SN95.

Not that I can even remember what my car drives like.. go away winter!

Adam

BlackFox5.0 said:
Hey c'mon When I put my front wheels on, with the cobra brakes I'll be updating my avatar again

edit: I see you just changed your avatar Adam, you hypocrite j/k
Click to expand...
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
3,514
1
0
Massachusetts
Feb 13, 2004
#10
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #10
That much of a difference, huh? I am going to be putting this all in when it gets warmer up here. I still need ball joint spacers, and brake lines. Got everything else though

Already my brakes are nothing compared to what I had before, I just touch the pedal and the car starts stopping.
 
P

PRO50SC

New Member
Dec 28, 2003
1,012
1
0
Olney, Maryland
Feb 13, 2004
#11
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #11
Adam Dugger said:
check my site for a full tech article both on the initial conversion and the upgrade to cobra fronts. I think its funny that the guys with upgraded brakes all have their wheels in their sigs.. lol
Click to expand...
Not me dude. Pretty observant though.
 

flymikemc

New Member
Sep 11, 2002
34
0
0
nashville
Feb 14, 2004
#12
  • Feb 14, 2004
  • #12
Hey if ya gottem flaunt um, right.

I have a question about the 96 proportioning valve (PV) vs. my fox 89. Can I plug the third line (closest to the firewall) I think its the left front, that on the fox goes into the MC, into the back port of the sn95 PV?

I have seen the kit that the guy in the link above sells (3 into 2 kit) but the sn95 has a port there that looks like a match. Does anyone know if it is? Will I have to cut and flar a fitting or is it a direct match?

thanks
 

BlackFox5.0

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
3,514
1
0
Massachusetts
Feb 14, 2004
#13
  • Feb 14, 2004
  • #13
You can't use an SN95 prop valve, because it is set up for the weight distribution of an SN95 car, the fox is much different....

You will need to gut the stock Prop valve, and add an adjustable one. If you can get the 3rd line into a GUTTED SN95 valve, then that should be fine, but you still need an adjustable prop valve.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Feb 14, 2004
#14
  • Feb 14, 2004
  • #14
BlackFox5.0 said:
You can't use an SN95 prop valve, because it is set up for the weight distribution of an SN95 car, the fox is much different....

You will need to gut the stock Prop valve, and add an adjustable one. If you can get the 3rd line into a GUTTED SN95 valve, then that should be fine, but you still need an adjustable prop valve.
Click to expand...


Yup, just keep it simple and gut the stock prop valve and run an adjustable unit. Things will just get too complex if you look towards retrofitting the SN95 unit in....if it will even fit.

The weight balance is not the same so it's pretty useless anyway
 
S

SmockDoiley

New Member
Jun 14, 2003
1,591
2
0
San Diego, CA
Feb 14, 2004
#15
  • Feb 14, 2004
  • #15
Actually you can use the Lincoln rotors with any rim, but you need to use spacers. I spent a whole night(with hardcore booze), and crunched the numbers. As soon as I get off work Ill look at all the parts again so I can give you real numbers. I purchased the spacers from Summit, and longer studs, and the wheels look and drive fine. If anything I get a slightly wider track for better cornering, lol.<-----Just kidding, I dont know if that is true or not but theoritically a wider wheelbase is better. In anycase it was like an extra $40 for those parts so it could still be done for $170 all together. I wouldnt recommend the spacer job with 9 inch rims and big tires, but your standard 8 inch rim with 235's and 245's works just fine. I actually like it better because when i originally did the swap I did it with my wife's tri-spoke 95 GT rims. They have 235's on them, and it just looked too recessed into the fenderwells, so I added the spacers and it pushed them out a little and made it look a lot better. Its actually cured the rubbing issue because I was able to move the tire out and away from the inner fenderwell and sway bar where it usually rubs.
 
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