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Passenger Side Header Leak.. Worth It? Or Let A Shop Do It.

  • Thread starter Thread starter billison
  • Start date Start date Jun 2, 2013

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
Feb 27, 2006
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Jun 2, 2013
#1
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #1
Ok, after a span of not being able to do jack on my mustang, I'm ready to finish and go. I'm getting tires on Saturday, and the only thing left is I have a leak on the passenger side exhaust by the motor.

Almost positive it's from the header.

My question is this. This this a job that's better to just let a shop do it?

I got a quote for 200$ that also includes installing my ss tail pipes.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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a van down by the river
Jun 2, 2013
#2
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #2
is this is turbo install leak or whats th dealio?
 

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
Feb 27, 2006
2,607
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Jun 2, 2013
#3
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #3
Nope. Stock 5.0, aftermarket shorty headers and off road h pipe. 9.2 5.0 5 speed.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
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104
Adrian, MI
Jun 2, 2013
#4
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #4
Only thing I would be worried about os snapping off an old bolt. Otherwise no big deal
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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a van down by the river
Jun 2, 2013
#5
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #5
easy fix man, get some replacement gaskets and get to work
 

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
Feb 27, 2006
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Jun 2, 2013
#6
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #6
Just wanted to make sure. I figured I'll want to pull the upper intake or at least the tb for ease
Of access. Then just install both new gaskets and go.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
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a van down by the river
Jun 2, 2013
#7
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #7
dont pull anything off other than the air intake hose/maf meter on pass side. and no need to pull intake to get to drivers side
 

Hawkeye_306

Member
Jul 20, 2004
69
3
9
Jun 2, 2013
#8
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #8
I've had the best luck running copper exhaust gaskets & pre-treating them by annealing (heat with a butane torch & allow to cool to soften up before install.)

Aside from that, it works best to use bolts with either an Allen or Torx fitting in the center to give you the ability to tighten them down w/o interference/stripping issues.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
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Maryland
Jun 2, 2013
#9
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #9
I run dead soft aluminum gaskets with arp bolts and a dab of black RTV on the threads to keep them in place... Never had a leak or had a bolt back out
 
Reactions: toolow91

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
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Jun 2, 2013
#10
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #10
Thanks guys! Can I find the gaskets at a local parts store?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
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Jun 2, 2013
#11
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #11
Yes I got my aluminums at pepboys
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
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In the garage
Jun 2, 2013
#12
  • Jun 2, 2013
  • #12
Don''t pay somebody $200 to replace one header gasket. Thats crazy. You don't need to remove the intake or valve covers. . The first thing I would do is find out where the leak is before you start swapping out parts. Is it the headers at the head or collectors?

To remove the header, just remove the air box, intake tube, Spark plug wires from the plugs on that side. You will need a combination of 7/16 wrenches and thin wall sockets for the header bolts. The rear one is a PITA to get to. If you still have the smog crap on, it is much easier to remove them for access. put masking tape on the vacuum lines and label them for the TAB and TAD valves so you know which one goes to which valve.
If your flanges are straight, there is no need for any fancy gaskets or RTV. To be honest, the stock ford OEM copper gaskets are some of the best and can be reused over and over if you are careful. I recommend either Percy's, Felpro 1415 steel reinforced, or Mr Gasket ultra seals. The key to no leaks is to make sure the flanges and heads are squeaky clean.

I soak the Felpro gaskets for an hour in water before installing them. That makes them expand and not crush as much, They also seal better when the engine heats up. I also use on stock or iron heads a 1" long SS allen head bolt and lock washers. Tighten them up from the inside out. Just snug them down and then tighten them down a bit. You don't want to snap the bolt. Go back after a few heat cycles and then after a few weeks. Do this and you will never have a leak.
 

Bill Gordon

Active Member
Sep 20, 2012
119
12
29
Broomfield, CO
Jun 3, 2013
#13
  • Jun 3, 2013
  • #13
Header gasket replacement isn't a huge deal. Definitely replace both sides. I have always had the best luck with copper gaskets. You should only have to remove the inlet tubing/MAF, spark plug wires and some misc hoses/tubing (disconnecting the rear of the H pipe helps, gives a little more room to move header around). Do it yourself and save your $ and buy another go fast part!
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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Kearney, NE
Jun 3, 2013
#14
  • Jun 3, 2013
  • #14
If you have the time and a good back, "get er done." The money you save would pay for some nice tools and refreshment. Next time I will probably drill and wire the heads of the bolts. Stage 8 makes cool lock bolts but I worry they will get stuck.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
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Jun 3, 2013
#15
  • Jun 3, 2013
  • #15
That's basically what I wanted to hear. I'm not sure where the leak is , I'll be grabbing some sea foam and trying to see the smoke before I start.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
Feb 27, 2006
2,607
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Jun 19, 2013
#16
  • Jun 19, 2013
  • #16
Was away directing a teen camp, now I'm back at it. The leak is between the header and mid pipe. Used sea foam to find it. Gonna start the labor tonight. Hoping for a easy / fast fix.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
15 Year Member
Feb 27, 2006
2,607
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Jun 19, 2013
#17
  • Jun 19, 2013
  • #17
Wow.. Easiest fix ever. Spent more time looking for the right size socket than actually fixing the dang thing. Both bolts on the passenger side are welded at the top, so they were easy to tighten up . All it was , was one bolt had backed out. Very easy fast fix. Spent more time cleaning up and replacing the battery trey than anything else. Sounds great now.thabjs guys.
 
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