My 67 currently runs 13.0 in the 1/4 mile. Since then I have added a 7qt canton pan, a windage tray and a lower girdle. I also have a paxton 1200 I am getting ready to put on. My question is, how much time do you think will come off my ET? And any info on installing the paxton system that anyone has run into would be great besides the instructions youget with it.
Paxton
- Thread starter Daniels1414
- Start date
302 coupe
Founding Member
well, the girdle/tray/pan wouldn't add any. How much the paxton adds will depend on how much boost you run and how well its tuned. I would dare say the T5 won't be lasting long, especially if you're using slicks. With 6 psi, I would say maybe 12.50's, hopefully faster though. Good luck, sounds like a nice ride. If dragging is your game, switching to a C4 would be the way to go. If you do highway driving with 4.11's, you'd need the overdrive.
I'm about to ditch my T5 for a built C4 with a 3500 stall, and swapping my 3.70's for 4.11's. Of course I don't have to drive it everyday either.
I'm about to ditch my T5 for a built C4 with a 3500 stall, and swapping my 3.70's for 4.11's. Of course I don't have to drive it everyday either.
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
The new 600 lb Tremec TKO3 would be the way to go if you want the 5 speed. The c4 is ok, but you will need to run a really high gear to get it movin'.
The paxton install is pretty straight forward. The pulley config can get a little tricky. It comes with 3 v belt and one serp on the front for the charger. The inside v belt is virtually useless. The linkage is a little tricky to adjust but not rocket science. Just make sure you tune your car really good after install and before you seal the enclosure. Comes stock with 7.5 lbs of boost.
Lastly, it's highly recommended you go with the Mighty Demon carb with the Paxton. I've been running a 650 dp for a few months and the dp doesn't take pressurization very well. It has been pushing my float bowls down creating a lean condition. The Demon will eliminate this...
The paxton install is pretty straight forward. The pulley config can get a little tricky. It comes with 3 v belt and one serp on the front for the charger. The inside v belt is virtually useless. The linkage is a little tricky to adjust but not rocket science. Just make sure you tune your car really good after install and before you seal the enclosure. Comes stock with 7.5 lbs of boost.
Lastly, it's highly recommended you go with the Mighty Demon carb with the Paxton. I've been running a 650 dp for a few months and the dp doesn't take pressurization very well. It has been pushing my float bowls down creating a lean condition. The Demon will eliminate this...
brianj5600
Active Member
blue66tang
Founding Member
Daniels1414 said:
You could do it hte fun way, drive it till the t5 blowes up then worry about another tranny. Besides its cool to tell people you blew somethign up because it couldnt handle the engine power.
blue66tang said:You could do it hte fun way, drive it till the t5 blowes up then worry about another tranny. Besides its cool to tell people you blew somethign up because it couldnt handle the engine power.
but then they'll look at you and think you're an idiot for screwing up a tranny instead of pulling it and selling it.
... as long as you don't go over 500 horses on a T-5(Z- I'm guessing?) then you'll be fine. The T5-Z can take a lot of abuse. I know, I have one. I run in the low 13's in my '67 289 coupe and I've never had tranny problems.
I do have a BG mighty Demon for the when I put the paxton on. What jetting do you recommend as an initial setup. Also, what fuel regulator is a good choice? I have a holley blue electric pump with holleys regulator currently but I've heard holleys regulator is crap. Either way I'll have to replace the regulator with one that has boost reference. Paxton suggested an Aeromotive. Any opinions/feedback would be great.
dodgestang
Active Member
Not to be a wet blanket here....but what compression are you running now?
13.0 is pretty good for a N/A 289 and ussually means worked over motor....if you already have 10:1 or better on compression, you're going to need race fuel to run any meaningful amount of boost.
13.0 is pretty good for a N/A 289 and ussually means worked over motor....if you already have 10:1 or better on compression, you're going to need race fuel to run any meaningful amount of boost.
dodgestang
Active Member
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
Basically the newer style float bowls is the difference here. However the Demons allow for much more adjustability for a quicker throttle response.
You must go with a mech secondary and choke no matter what...
3 notches higher than where you're at is a good starting point on the jetting.
You must go with a mech secondary and choke no matter what...
3 notches higher than where you're at is a good starting point on the jetting.
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
Regulator issue!
The early model systems come with a mechanical pump (Carter) that has a diaphram in it for referencing the boost. 1 lb per pound of boost. No regulator is needed.
If you want to run an electric pump, you will have to get a regulator that is boost referenced in the same ratio.
Personally I haven't had much luck with electric pumps here in the desert heat. The pump that came with the system runs 9 lbs at idle.
The early model systems come with a mechanical pump (Carter) that has a diaphram in it for referencing the boost. 1 lb per pound of boost. No regulator is needed.
If you want to run an electric pump, you will have to get a regulator that is boost referenced in the same ratio.
Personally I haven't had much luck with electric pumps here in the desert heat. The pump that came with the system runs 9 lbs at idle.
Similar threads
