persistant pulling under braking

[limestang]

As the title implies, I'm having problems with my 68 pulling to the left under braking. The first time I noticed this problem my first instinct was to adjust the front passenger brake. The drum on that side had too much space between the shoes and the drum so I adjusted it and the problem seemed to be fixed, but after about a week or two of driving the car started pulling again. I went back and found that there was too much space between the shoe and drum passenger side brake again, so I adjusted it once again only to have the same result.

The car has manual drum brakes on all four corners. The cylinders, shoes, and drums were replace about four years ago and I put on a new master cylinder two years ago. The upper and lower control arms, spindle connecting rods, and the passenger side strut were replaced three years ago. I was thinking the fact that I only replaced the right strut might have something to do with it, but the car actually tends to pull a little to the right when cruising. In addition, after adjusting the passenger side drum I find that when the car does start pulling again it's a gradual thing that gets worse and worse as I drive the car more, eventually to the point where I'm fighting with the steering wheel to keep the car straight. Oh yeah, the car has manual steering too.

I also know that the car would naturally tend to pull to the left due to the difference in brake line differences, but it definitely pulls a little too much. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[rsweld]

I had the same situation on my 65, check your left front wheel cylinder. If it is leaking it will case the brake to pull to the left. You would think the brake fluid on the shoe would lube it causing the car to oull to the right not so it has the opposite effect and causes that brake to grab. This is what my problem was.

Ron

 

[Az Pete]

Also check the self adjusters. I just replaced all 4 of mine and got rid of the pull I had. Mine worked real stiff even after clean and lube. $25 for all new stuff was worth it.

 

[myred65]

X2 on the break cylinder. Had this problem on my 66 to where if you hit the brakes hard it would almost pull the steering wheel out of your hands. I would recomend just biting the bullet and replacing both front cylinders and shoes at one time. Should take care of the issue.

 

[horseballz]

limestang,
Sounds to me like your adjuster on the passenger side is somehow loosening itself. This could be caused by the nubs on the star wheel being worn kinda smooth or the sharp, flat edge on the plate that actuates the star wheel being worn. I doubt there is any possibility that when you installed the brakes that you put the left adjuster on the right and vica-versa? There is also the slight possibility that somehow you got a left side adjuster in the package for the right side when you bought them? Remember that one side is right hand threaded and the other side is left hand threaded. You can check this with the drum off. When the adjuster plate pushes downward it should be making the adjuster assembly longer as it turns the star wheel. Simply turn the star wheel in the direction that the plate will turn it and check that it is operating properly. Please let us know, as it will be interesting to hear.
HTH,
Gene

 

[limestang]

Upon visual inspection of the driver's side cylinder, it didn't appear to be leaking at all. In addition, the master cylinder was still completely full which supports this assumption. I'm going to go ahead and try new adjusting screws/springs and adjuster plates and see where this gets me.

One other thing. When I was inspecting the driver's side cylinder I noticed that the shoe closest to the front of the car was worn down more than the rear shoe. Is this normal? I have yet to check to see if the passenger side has the same issue, but it's up next on the to do list. Thanks! You guys are a lot of help!

 

[71fordramair]

the problem can be caused by the "self adjusters" when you back down out of your driveway with the wheel turned and hit the brakes to leave, some adjusters adjust tighter than others. ford had manual adjusters before 1964. it used a spring hooked to both shoes together at the bottom, and the spring bows over the adjuster wheel to keep it from moving. I went to napa ond ordered pn#80503 { 4 springs} removed self adjuster cable, cable guide, index pointer and spring . hook spring across both shoes and adjust till shoes close to drum. since pass side has LH thread adjuster you will spin all adjuster wheels UP TO TIGHTEN SHOES { up is big} pump brake pedal then adjust each wheel till shoe just drags on all 4 drums. it has made my 71 mustang with power drums stop as straight as disc brakes. ive been driving it a while and cant say when i'll have to adjust them again but im guessing once a year. GET RID OF THE SELF ADJUSTING MECHANISIM! you'll be a lot safer off.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

When my drums pull left, I wonder if the right one is working correctly. Something like this seems to happen with drums especially after bring parked for some time. I can not imagine new/reproduced hardware is not available. Replace the adjuster set up on both sides with new hardware for the right side and check out the wheel cylinders too.

I do not believe in messing with the stock configuration. Ditching the self adjusters is possibly bad advice.

 

[71fordramair]

if you adjust your shoes equal with slight drag{all four} then test drive does it stop straight?
after 3 days mine would start pulling to the right again. i jacked up front end and right side wheel was really tight. all my parts are less than 1 yr old, my adjusters are on the correct side [R is pass side] flushed and blead. the "self" adjuster kits i bought are made in china, they dont adjust accurately, especially when you back up with the wheels turned on a steep driveway! Ford did not install " self" adjusters before 1964 but everything else is the same. nothing wrong with that. im still breaking like a disc brake car for a $16.00 upgrade.