Pertronix and wiring

I could tell you, but given the recent attacks that you have enjoyed on me, I'll let you figure this one out for yourself.

Max, I'd like to know why you must continue this badgering of me? Why can't we just agree to disagree on some subjects and let it drop? You seem to enjoy posting these little jabs and quite frankly, I am getting tired of it and will be voicing my concern to the moderator if you continue. Consider this your final warning.

Hey Max.

On my 72 model, the resistor wire is connected to the factory tach in the dash. I bypassed it when I put in an Accel distributor.

If I understand correctly, the engineering from 69 to 73 didn't change very much, so I would speculate that the resistor wire on your car originates under the dashboard too, whether you have a factory tach or not.

From what I've gathered over the years, running most electronic systems other than Accel -- including Pertronix (sp?) -- without a ballast resistor of some type will overheat and eventually destroy the electronics.

How many miles did you put on the unit in six years? Maybe it was just time for it to go to electronics heaven.

Good luck.

Wayne.

btw: IMHO, if somebody doesn't have something contributory to post, then don't post at all (or as I tell my kids, "if you don't have something nice to say, then just don't say anything"). My .02 worth.

I can tell you how my 66 is setup, I don't think yours will be much if any different. The resistance wire connects directly to my ignition switch, it is covered with a woven fabric like guard, same stuff on the pressure switch lead. The wire is a resistance wire its entire length, from the male plug to the bulkhead connector at the firewall. I can't tell you the voltage thru the wire, frankly I never checked, car started, no problem. I ran Petronix for about a year and left the resistor in place, despite the instructions that say to bypass it.

I have since replace the engine and am using a MSD ready to run dizzy. I bypassed the wire for this unit. I cut the wire off as close to the bulkhead connector as possible, soldered a new wire in its place which I connected to the ignition switch. I left the old wire in place should I ever decide to go back to a stock engine.

If you have voltage at the positive (ignition switch side) of the coil when the key is on, the wire is good. The circuit is either closed or open, however you may want to check its length for cuts or nicks that may allow the circuit to ground out.

BTW, I kept the old set of points and condenser, screws, and a feeler gaug in my glove compartment, you never know......