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Pertronix Ignitor question, and any real benefit to "performance" spark plug wires?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SadbutTrue
  • Start date Start date Jul 3, 2004
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SadbutTrue

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May 1, 2002
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Granada Hills, California
Jul 3, 2004
#1
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #1
I have a relatively hot ignition already (MSD 6a and an aftermarket coil). My plug wires are shot, so I'm thinking I might just spend the extra few bucks for some 8mm wires as opposed to the 7mm ones I used to have, if theres any use. I also was looking a Pertronix Ignitor unit (I've heard using one of these to get rid of the points can be one of the best upgrades you can do all around for a classic), but I'm worried it might not be compatible with my MSD or coil.

Any comments?
 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
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Seattle & Tampa
Jul 3, 2004
#2
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #2
As I recall from reading an article in Car Craft (or was it Hot Rod???), they noted no horsepower or torque benefits from "performance" wires. What they did say was there was a wide range in terms of "quality" and "durability". I think it was a different article that did a comparison of wires in terms of cost, fit, pull pressure (the amount required to remove the boot from the plug), and a couple other things. I think most of the expensive wires did pretty well, but so did $30 yellow Accels.

As for 8mm vs. 7 mm, certainly 8mm wires should provide for less resistance (more current flow), but I can't tell you how much. Ultimately, I think you want to find a wire that flows adequate current, has decent durability, and doesn't break the bank... my vote is for good ol' Accels or Mallorys.

Hope this helps...
 
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D.Hearne

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#3
  • Jul 3, 2004
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Get the Ford Racing wires for small blocks ( 9mm) they last well over a year, fit well too. Use a small to large cap adapter and large EFI dist cap and rotor with them. I've had one set ( out of three or four I've had so far) on a 95 E150 351 Van, and they've been there going on four years now , cooped up inside that HOT engine compartment, and they're still going strong. Can't beat the price either, like $40 a set thru Summit
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
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Jul 3, 2004
#4
  • Jul 3, 2004
  • #4
well NPD had some 8mm Pertronix wires for 45$, and since I was there buying the Ignitor anyway I justn picked them up. We'll see how they do, I suppose.
 
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hummer784

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Jul 3, 2004
#5
  • Jul 3, 2004
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When my stock replacement wires gave up I bought the solid corre accels. Mabey im crazy, but I could have sworn that I got better throttle responce. If I had to do it again I would buy a nicer set like taylor.
 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
2,215
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Jul 4, 2004
#6
  • Jul 4, 2004
  • #6
Dammit... I always seem to confuse current and voltage... Voltage is the important one in this case.
 

Aero

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Jul 5, 2004
#7
  • Jul 5, 2004
  • #7
According to the guys at petronix, it is said to use a petronix coil with the petronix ignitor.

I don't know if it's just a marketing ploy or not but since I needed a new one anyways I went with the flamethrower.
 
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D.Hearne

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#8
  • Jul 5, 2004
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You have to use a points type coil with a Pertronix unit. Not one designed for other ignition types.
 

Jonstantine

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Jul 20, 2002
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Oklahoma
Jul 22, 2004
#9
  • Jul 22, 2004
  • #9
i also have a question..
i called cranecams about their vacuum advance kit and using it with an ignitor and he said i didnt need a vacuum advance kit because the ignitor controlled the timing or something to that affect
what do you guys think?

i also have msd 6a

last question - what is the gap supposed to be on the ignitor? i lost my spacer... and its a long story, but i want to recheck my gap.

thanks
 
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D.Hearne

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Jul 22, 2004
#10
  • Jul 22, 2004
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I think the gap was something like .030. The Ignitor controls the dwell, not the timing, so yes, you do still need the vacuum advance, unless the distributor you have is one designed to be a mechanical advance unit only.
 

Jonstantine

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Jul 23, 2004
#11
  • Jul 23, 2004
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thanks for the reply, how would i know if it was only mechanical?
it does have a vacuum hose connected to the carb though... so i can only assume ...

also, vacuum advance kit is same as "recurve kit" people have been saying is a good upgrade lately?
 
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D.Hearne

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#12
  • Jul 23, 2004
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A mechanical advance unit will not have any provision for a vacuum diaphram unit to be bolted to it. The vacuum kit is different from a re-curve kit. The re-curve kit contains the springs and weights necessary to change the way the mechanical adavnce under the points plate advance the dist timing. In most vacuum adv. dist there's also a mechanical advance mechanism in there too.
 

Pakrat

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Aug 6, 2000
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Jul 23, 2004
#13
  • Jul 23, 2004
  • #13
D.Hearne said:
You have to use a points type coil with a Pertronix unit. Not one designed for other ignition types.
Click to expand...

Also note worthy I think is that while you do not need the flamethrower coil per say, not just any points type coil will neccessarily work. For example my exisiting coil was just fine, but it was also designed to use with an internal resistor which you do not want to use with the kit. To play it safe I just spent the extra cash on the flamethrower since my particular install was anything but text book and I had to modify and fabricate almost everything becsuse of my distributor. A long story I won't bore you with but there is a thread on it if you run into problems.

In addition, be aware that there are two different V8 units with pertronix, one for vaccumm advance and one with out so be sure to get the correct one.
 
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D.Hearne

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#14
  • Jul 23, 2004
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Pakrat said:
Also note worthy I think is that while you do not need the flamethrower coil per say, not just any points type coil will neccessarily work. For example my exisiting coil was just fine, but it was also designed to use with an internal resistor which you do not want to use with the kit. To play it safe I just spent the extra cash on the flamethrower since my particular install was anything but text book and I had to modify and fabricate almost everything becsuse of my distributor. A long story I won't bore you with but there is a thread on it if you run into problems.

In addition, be aware that there are two different V8 units with pertronix, one for vaccumm advance and one with out so be sure to get the correct one.
Click to expand...
Ditto here I went with a Mallory Promaster (for points ignition) coil on my Ranger's Pertronix II and it's worked great. My 68 Merc's Pertronix I has the Flamethrower coil. Can't tell the difference between the two. I had the Pertronix I / Flamethrower on the Ranger before using it on the 390. If there's a difference, it surely doesn't show up on the seat-of-the-pants meter.
 

splinterddt

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Jul 24, 2004
#15
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #15
I hate to point out that blkfrd is backwards. Voltage is like the water in a hose and current is the flow. You cannot increase the voltage to the spark plugs. 12 volts is all the battery produces. Amps(current) increase when you reduce the resistance in the wires.

As far as the Ignitor, I read that the Ignitor is not compatable with MSD. The multiple sparks will burn up the Ignitor. I'm not sure about the Ignitor II. I think it is used with Pentronix's new multi-spark ignition. It's a low cost alternative to MSD.
 
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D.Hearne

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#16
  • Jul 24, 2004
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If you can't increase the voltage to the plugs over 12 volts, then why are ALL the performance coils rated in output at 40,000-60,000 volts?
 

splinterddt

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Jul 24, 2004
#17
  • Jul 24, 2004
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Okay, I suffered from a brain fart. The coil is designed to create its own voltage from the battery, thus being able to greatly increase the voltage to the plugs. The statement blkfrd said "Thers is NOT a lot of current running thru the plug wires" is incorrect. According to Ohm's Law, Voltage=Amps x Resistance. Thus when voltage increases, the amps will increase too. Still electricity is like water: voltage is like the water in a hose, current is the flow of the water, and resistance is like putting your finger on the end of the hose.
 
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D.Hearne

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  • Jul 24, 2004
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splinterddt said:
Okay, I suffered from a brain fart. The coil is designed to create its own voltage from the battery, thus being able to greatly increase the voltage to the plugs. The statement blkfrd said "Thers is NOT a lot of current running thru the plug wires" is incorrect. According to Ohm's Law, Voltage=Amps x Resistance. Thus when voltage increases, the amps will increase too. Still electricity is like water: voltage is like the water in a hose, current is the flow of the water, and resistance is like putting your finger on the end of the hose.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, didn't I? But I think( maybe I'm wrong here ) the amperage stays the same from before the coil, to the plugs. The voltage is jumped up by the coil, otherwise that 12 volts wouldn't jump the plug gap.
 

SadbutTrue

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May 1, 2002
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Jul 24, 2004
#19
  • Jul 24, 2004
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heh, well the accel seems to be working fine, though I still need to get my timing under control
 

Pakrat

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Aug 6, 2000
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Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po
Jul 26, 2004
#20
  • Jul 26, 2004
  • #20
So if electricity and water are so alike than why don't they mix?
I think electricity is more like oil.
 
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