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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

pi cams vs. aftermarket??

  • Thread starter Thread starter rcombs18
  • Start date Start date Feb 22, 2009
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rcombs18

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  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #1
ok so i am really thinking hard about trying to do a pi intake and cam swap on my 97 gt... however if i was going to do a cam swap i would almost rather just get something thats aftermarket rather than a stock pi outta something newer... I really would like to have the sound of the cam more than anything... but how would the two compare powerwise... also any suggestions on a good cam thats affordable? or what do you guys think?

Thanks for the Advice!!
 
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zeevann

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#2
  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #2
i can't tell you how they compare to an aftermarket cam, but i did the swap a couple of weeks ago and there is a big differance from stock. The install was quite easy just a little time consuming. Deff a good bang for the buck

also it seems to run smoother if that makes any sense?
 

Winters98GT

Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!
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Feb 22, 2009
#3
  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #3
it all depends on what you are willing to spend.

The PI cams work with stock valve springs. They can be had for 50 bucks.

Aftermarket cams might give you another 5-10hp, but not much more on a stock npi heads.

For me, I'd go with the PI cams.
 

Blackone51

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Oct 30, 2008
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#4
  • Feb 22, 2009
  • #4
I have ported npi heads and pi cams, and I was very pleased with the results. I got the pi cams for free so couldn't pass on them but really wish I would have just spent the money and sprung for the aftermarket cams while I had the car all taken apart. In my case school was more important at the time so money was tight, O well it's a work in progress!!!
 
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rcombs18

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#5
  • Feb 23, 2009
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yeah see im kinda in the same boat right now... tryin to go to school and work and all that good stuff... so how hard was getting all the timing and everything to match up on the cam swap? thats really my biggest concern about doing it... i don't know a whole lot about workin on cars but my dad knows quite a bit from when he was younger (he use to have a 73 mach 1 that i wish was still around!) also i have some friends that i think could help me with it... i think i would rather just save the money and get the pi cams... sounds like everyone that does it absolutely loves them
 

Blackone51

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#6
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #6
rcombs18 said:
yeah see im kinda in the same boat right now... tryin to go to school and work and all that good stuff... so how hard was getting all the timing and everything to match up on the cam swap? thats really my biggest concern about doing it... i don't know a whole lot about workin on cars but my dad knows quite a bit from when he was younger (he use to have a 73 mach 1 that i wish was still around!) also i have some friends that i think could help me with it... i think i would rather just save the money and get the pi cams... sounds like everyone that does it absolutely loves them
Click to expand...

Well I never did a head swap before and it was not to hard, I guess it should'nt be, being only one year from being an engineer. I just did alot of researching, there are alot of how to threads on :SNSign: and plenty of great people on here to help out. Just do your homework and take a lot of pics, so you have a reference of where stuff goes back to. Oh and a good partner is a big help, my girlfriends dad helped me a lot
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
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#7
  • Feb 23, 2009
  • #7
I wouldn't pay for a swap so doing it yourself is a good start. If money is an issue then go with the PI's. Some people will try to tell you that a full head swap is the way to go but just cams and a PI intake and you are very close to a full head swap as far as power. I did install Comp 262's with the PI intake and on a conservative tune I'm at regular PI cars as far as power. The only difference in the headswapped NPI cars is the compression is boosted so you may see another 10 HP.

The cam swap isn't too hard. Check around for a cam tool that locks the timing chains in place making the swap easier. Otherwise, if going with a bigger cam, read up on timing and degreeing the cams to get the best results. Being you are only doing the PI cams you should be OK with a straight install. Just keep the timing chains stationary and all should work out.
 
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rcombs18

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#8
  • Feb 23, 2009
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ok man thanks a lot for the tips! so if i went with the pi cams it would be a lot easier swap than something else? i really just want a little extra power so my car doesn't look like it should be fast it is actually half way fast lol so what all is there to doing the pi cam swap? if you don't mind explaining it to me
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
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#9
  • Feb 24, 2009
  • #9
The swap would be about the same for PI or a mild cam. If you go with a more aggressive cam you would need valve springs and have them degreed.

As far a the simplicity of a swap I'm not going to say it is for a novice. Basic knowledge and some mechanical know how is required. Some my find it impossible and others a piece of cake.

Search "cam swap" and you shoud find some good info.
 
C

CatmanJJ

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#10
  • Feb 25, 2009
  • #10
Cams!!
 
4

4tun8

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#11
  • Feb 25, 2009
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I would not pay for cams for the sound.
 

squeak93

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Jun 2, 2005
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Feb 26, 2009
#12
  • Feb 26, 2009
  • #12
Look me up when ur ready to do the swap. There are a ton of us mustang guys (mod ones at that) around you locally and I even know where a set of pi cams are just sitting that you could probally get for cheap. Send me another pm with what your looking to spend.
 
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rcombs18

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#13
  • Feb 26, 2009
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pm just sent

do you think any of them would be willing to help me do the swap if one of my buddies cant?
 

squeak93

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#14
  • Feb 26, 2009
  • #14
I have no clue man. Its hard to get folks you don't know to committ then actually show up. I'd volunteer but am afraid I'm worthless as far as actually timing them.
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
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#15
  • Feb 26, 2009
  • #15
4tun8 said:
I would not pay for cams for the sound.
Click to expand...
X eleventy.

Not that I have any real proof or any back up to this opinion but I'm thinking the cams on the early 4.6 were set to more exact tolerances than the future 4.6's. I've heard many horror stories of aggressive cams on the later cars causing PTV issues but not so much on the early GT's. My reasoning is that the specs got looser in the later years which is why when going with an aggressive cam it is good to have them degreed. If I remember correctly someone measured stock cams to be in the neighborhood of 6 degrees off on a later model GT. That could be the difference between running fine and breaking a valve with a more aggressive cam. I've swapped to 262's in my 96 and a friend had 270's in his 98 and neither one of us had any running issues at all using the cam tool only. No timing or degreeing at all. Like I said there is no science to back my belief but it seems plausible.

That said I think you would be fine with a PI or Stage 1/Comp 262 type cam and not go thought the extra issue of degreeing. Just make damn sure the timing chain doesn't move at all.
 
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rcombs18

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#16
  • Feb 27, 2009
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ok thanks for all the info! is there any secret to keeping the timing chain from moving? thats the part that worries me the most... although i saw a guy out driving tonight that i've just seen around town and he said he has a guy that would most likely help me do it! so hopefully i'll hear something back from him!
 

98COBRA281

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Nov 24, 2007
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Feb 27, 2009
#17
  • Feb 27, 2009
  • #17
COramprat said:
X eleventy.

Not that I have any real proof or any back up to this opinion but I'm thinking the cams on the early 4.6 were set to more exact tolerances than the future 4.6's. I've heard many horror stories of aggressive cams on the later cars causing PTV issues but not so much on the early GT's. My reasoning is that the specs got looser in the later years which is why when going with an aggressive cam it is good to have them degreed. If I remember correctly someone measured stock cams to be in the neighborhood of 6 degrees off on a later model GT. That could be the difference between running fine and breaking a valve with a more aggressive cam. I've swapped to 262's in my 96 and a friend had 270's in his 98 and neither one of us had any running issues at all using the cam tool only. No timing or degreeing at all. Like I said there is no science to back my belief but it seems plausible.

That said I think you would be fine with a PI or Stage 1/Comp 262 type cam and not go thought the extra issue of degreeing. Just make damn sure the timing chain doesn't move at all.
Click to expand...

im running cams with these specs, 540/540lift, 225/230 dur @.50, 112lsa, and almost flattop pistons with no problems, i checked ptv clearnce and i had plenty of room.
 
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rcombs18

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#18
  • Feb 27, 2009
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hey 98cobra281, did you get my pm a couple days ago?
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
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Feb 27, 2009
#19
  • Feb 27, 2009
  • #19
rcombs18 said:
ok thanks for all the info! is there any secret to keeping the timing chain from moving? thats the part that worries me the most... although i saw a guy out driving tonight that i've just seen around town and he said he has a guy that would most likely help me do it! so hopefully i'll hear something back from him!
Click to expand...
Search for the Anderson Cam tool. I can't remember what there website is but you can order one from them, It locks the chains in place so can swap the cam without removing the chains.
 
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rcombs18

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#20
  • Feb 28, 2009
  • #20
alright sweet! autozone will rent out tools for free i wonder if that would be something that they would rent? that would be sweet! thanks a lot for your help man! you've made convinced me that i can do the swap! lol
 
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