PI swap not starting.. NEED ANSWERS

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 16, 2010

Ok so i just got done with it, im not an idiot ive done so many motor rebuilds ive lost count, but to start off, I know the cams were timed in perfect. its getting fuel i know that, and it has good compression I know that (can barely turn by hand) Im not for sure if its getting spark or not, but the coil packs worked fine before, and all the sensors are plugged in.

anybody have any suggestions? Im tired and im pissed lol, just want it to run..

EDIT: i just found the drivers coil pack connector is very loose like cracked.. i guess it could be that?

Midnight2V · Feb 17, 2010

Did you reconnect the spark lug wires exactly as you removed them? Or did you reconnect them according to a diagram like one out of a Haynes or Chilton's manual. The reason I ask is that the only manual with the correct diagram is the genuine shop manual for some reason. All the cheap ones are wrong.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

oh really? man i have a haynes and hooked em up like that, i did notice some of the wires didnt seem to fit, might all be in my head though, ill see if i can find the right one..

BTW: thanks!!

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

Winters98GT · Feb 17, 2010

Mr. Rustypwnz said:
edit: found it, 4 and 2 are swapped, and some others looks like it was way off!! thanks alot you have made my early morning..

What setup does the car have? Glad you found the problem. Are you getting the car tuned?

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

well they werent swapped (damn)

and yes its getting tuned asap!! ported pi swap with cams, should make pretty decent numbers..

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

ok is it this one or:

6 3 7 2
1 5 4 8

I have it set for the latter, still no dice, batt is going low, so im going to pick up some spare coil packs and a batt tomorrow..

BK_CAULEY · Feb 17, 2010

its out of gas you cheap bastard.

patman0911 · Feb 17, 2010

Does it try to fire at all, or does it just spin?

You need to make sure you're actually getting spark, there's fuel pressure and that the injectors are firing. If just a couple of plug wires were crossed, it would still try to run on the remaining cylinders - even with a bad coil pack, it'd still be trying to fire on at least 4 cylinders.

Is the crank position sensor snugged all the way down? About the only thing the PCM can't live totally without is the signal from the crank position sensor. Isn't it possible to put the trigger wheel on backwards on these motors? I believe if that happens, the teeth don't line up in the same plane as the sensor so no signal.

Mel96GT · Feb 17, 2010

Midnight2V said:
Did you reconnect the spark lug wires exactly as you removed them? Or did you reconnect them according to a diagram like one out of a Haynes or Chilton's manual. The reason I ask is that the only manual with the correct diagram is the genuine shop manual for some reason. All the cheap ones are wrong.

That is partially true!!!! I forgot how I wired it so I had to reconnect them like the Chiltons manual and they did work, but it was different than the original! Maybe I just got lucky. You should change that coil pack first. Even the manual says you should replace all broken and cracked ignition components first. YMMV.

Dustys'99 · Feb 17, 2010

I had this exact same problem after I installed an engine in my dad's 2000 Chev. It turned out the signal wire out on the crank sensor was broken off in the plug. Had to tug on the wires to find it and it pulled right out. The truck ran fine before but after the engine replacment I geuss just wiggling the wires caused the one to break. Try hooking it up to a code reader. Are you sure you are getting fuel? The fuel pump may run when you turn the key on but until the computer sees input from alll the necessary sensors it will not inject the fuel. Problems like this are frustrating (to say the least). good luck

patman0911 · Feb 17, 2010

In case you're not sure how to easily check the basic fuel & spark stuff:

Check for fuel pressure. Turn the key to run so the fuel system primes, then poke the shcrader valve (it's just like a tire valve) on the fuel rail and see if gasoline shoots out under pressure - if so, then you're probably OK.
Check for injector pulsing. While someone is cranking the motor touch a long screw driver or socket extension to a fuel injector and and put your ear to it - you should hear a clicking sound from the injector's solenoid opening and closing. If you hear that clicking then they are probably OK.
Check for spark. Pull a spark plug, stick it's plug wire back on it and while someone is cranking, hold the side of the plug to some bare metal on the motor so it can ground (use some insulated handled pliers or some gloves so you don't get zapped) and see if you see spark.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

i know for a fact its getting fuel, im going to check for crank signal today. i know the trigger wheel is on right (took pics to remind myself), but i might have screwed it. But that is true i would think that it would be at least spitting when turning over..

wmburns · Feb 17, 2010

While you are at it, check the Cam sensor since this would have been removed as part of the work.

Try holding the throttle part way open. If it starts, suspect a Bad/disconnected IAC.

IMO, the easiest way to check a crank sensor is with an ODB2 scanner. Monitor RPM's while cranking. No RPM's = No crank position sensor = no-start. Reminder, if no crank position sensor, then the PCM will not know when to fire spark or fuel. So no signs of starting would be expected.

Also assuming that PATS is not an issue.

If still no answer, try disconnecting the electrical connection to the MAF and see if it starts then.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

BK_CAULEY said:
its out of gas you cheap bastard.

no that was the formula 3 months ago lol

mogs01gt · Feb 17, 2010

check crank sensor, cam sensor and wires. Sounds like the plug wires arent right.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 17, 2010

UPDATE!! trigger wheel is on backerdz, took out the crank sensor and could feel it to the front of the opening, so, damn i gots to go rent the puller again.. oh well lol

better than throwing money at it i guess..

patman0911 · Feb 17, 2010

Oh man, that sucks - basically all the work of a cam swap minus the easy part of unbolting the cams. At least it sounds like like you've figured it out and it's a simple, if time consuming fix, and yep, it beats throwing parts and $$$ at it.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Feb 18, 2010

taking a break on it, its 25deg in the garage so ill work on it later I got a perfect notch to drive lol gonna go through everything I did and check the work..

PI swap not starting.. NEED ANSWERS

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Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!

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it's built for speed not longevity, woman

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Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!

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