Pics and video of my 299/323 dyno run.

I truly don't know which would give higher numbers. If anything I would think this kind of dyno is more accurate b/c all cars are tested on a level playing field b/c you don't have to account for different size tires. That being said I would think that they would have the machine set up to give the same amount of resistance as if tires were on the vehicle.
 
are those SAE corrected? Because if they are I have a hard time seeing that. I have the 93 octane SCT tune with the C&L intake and tune. I have 1090 miles on the car and dynoed today at 273hp and 292 Torque.
 
Yes, my dyno sheet says the correction method is SAE. Here is my dyno sheet. The JLT CAI is one of the least expensive on the market and it is awsome IMO. :nice:
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I guess I should also mention that there are several types of dynos and they all give out different numbers-

Dynojets tend to be 10% higher then Mustang Dynos based on our experience here, however Mustang Dynos will give you a more accurate reading for tuning because you can adjust for different conditions- hills, wind resistance and so on-

Mustang Dynos are the most accurate however-

You will find that when aftermarket manufactures report dyno gains however, the Dynojet is the industry standard because it gives the higher numbers-

Dynos are fun, I love running my car on dynos, but for the most part you can not compare dynos with one another as there are way too many factors that come into play-

Altitude, humidity, temperature, coolant temperature, intake temperature, type of fuel (different states use differnt fuel mixtures) - well you guys get my point-
 
Yea, as I was saying before the guy who did my tune said there could be a 5hp difference in dynos so my numbers could be more like 294 rwhp which I am still happy with. Eitherway what really matters is performance and she feels MUCH quicker now :banana:
 
Sweet #'s. I got the Magnaflow x pipe (with cats) and axle/cat back (Roush package) and what a diff the x pipe makes to the sound! Sweet sweet music, no mistake. Also, when I went to pick up the new pipe, I was shocked at how light it was - I also picked up the stock set when they were being changed and it felt like there was a good 10 or so lbs weight difference. Hey, every little counts!

No dyno yet, but current mods are gears (daily driver 3.73's :( from the auto's OE 3.35's), x pipe, axle backs and Diablo 91 Octane tune. FRPP headers, Steeda pulleys going on this w/e (hopefully) and C&L mass air kit likely to be bought and installed this w/e too. I was going to go s/c'd, but have decided to put that on hold until the car has all it's minor issues resolved under warranty.
 
I don't know how many of you folks are in California, but isn't it against the law to change out catalytic converters unless they are not working?

For example, it would be illegal to buy a new car and a week later swap out the cats for new high flowing ones. Or do I have this wrong? I ask this due to the previous post talking about the bassani cats providing some extra horsepower.

Thanks
 
As far as I know as long as you HAVE cats and you aren't tripping any emmissions codes that cause the CEL light to go on you can pass inspection in New York. The Bassani cats were causing me to get a CEL b/c I was running lean. We tuned it and adjusted the A/F and now no more CEL (knock on wood).
 
shatter said:
I don't know how many of you folks are in California, but isn't it against the law to change out catalytic converters unless they are not working?

For example, it would be illegal to buy a new car and a week later swap out the cats for new high flowing ones. Or do I have this wrong? I ask this due to the previous post talking about the bassani cats providing some extra horsepower.

Thanks
I think that is correct. However, my car is lowered and I cracked a cat, either bottoming-out or else in the accident my car was in, and HAD to switch em out. Really.
 
Yea, the title is wrong. I saw it and asked the tuner while I was there and he said its a misnomer. Should be rear wheel. Only way to test fly wheel is to yank the engine and dyno it on its own. No real way to predict how much hp is lost to the drivetrain.
 
yeah but ot could be est numbers. But good numbers man. From my understanding it is all in the way the dyno is calibrated. The one at school must be a different calibration.
 
JTGrant said:
yeah but ot could be est numbers. But good numbers man. From my understanding it is all in the way the dyno is calibrated. The one at school must be a different calibration.

Yea, I gotta go with what the tuner says, he does it every day I it's my first dyno tune. Plus it makes sense for it to be rear wheel numbers given that the machine was hooked up to the rear wheels. ;)