Pics of the mustang I got

I

Ilikeponys

New Member

Nov 22, 2005

17

0

0

Nov 27, 2005

#1

• Nov 27, 2005

• #1

I picked this up last week. Drove it 100miles home with no problems. Ran really good besides the exhaust leak. Had to drive with the windows down. Its a 68 mustang 289. Motor was rebuild last year. Has a c4 tranny. Has dual flowmasters and headers. New 4 column raditor and new fan. Has some rust spots but nothing to bad. It had new motor and tranny mounts. The interior is less than a year old.








how much money do you think it will to get that back peice of rust cut out and replaced?

First im going to get the exhaust leak fixed,then new front shocks, get the rust fixed,get it painted them probably new rims and tires and some engine work.

 

Attachments

• IMG_0160.webp

  41.4 KB · Views: 68
• IMG_0161.webp

  36.7 KB · Views: 78
• IMG_0162.webp

  36 KB · Views: 62
• engine.webp

  14 KB · Views: 67
• int.webp

  10.7 KB · Views: 97
• back.webp

  9.9 KB · Views: 87
• IMG_0163.webp

  17.4 KB · Views: 71

I

Ilikeponys

New Member

Nov 22, 2005

17

0

0

Nov 27, 2005

#2

• Nov 27, 2005

• #2

Oh and I got it for 3700$. Does that sound reasonable?

 

70vert

New Member

Dec 31, 2004

722

0

0

Bay Area, CA

Nov 27, 2005

#3

• Nov 27, 2005

• #3

Sounds like you got a great deal

you might want to take it to a reputable local restorer or body shop to diagnose how much rust is really there. It's hard to tell. Cowl and floor pan can be some of the most expensive to repair.

I like those coupes - I would think about making it look like a GT/CS (California Special) - look for kits online. I think they look fantastic, side scoops and a spoiler, but that's just my personal bias. Enjoy it and welcome!

Joe

Ilikeponys said:

Oh and I got it for 3700$. Does that sound reasonable?

Click to expand...

 

t_chelle16

Keeper of the closet key

Founding Member

May 8, 2002

3,610

0

0

Knob Noster, Mo.

Nov 27, 2005

#4

• Nov 27, 2005

• #4

If that little spot on the C-pillar is the only rust on the car, then $3700 is a really good deal.

But like 70vert said, look it over really good for rust. Floor pans, torque boxes, toe boards, bottom corners of the fenders & doors, head light buckets, battery apron, cowl, frame rails, trunk floor & drop offs, rocker panels . . . all really bad rust spots for these older mustangs.

-Chelle

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

2,359

0

46

Confederate States of America

Nov 28, 2005

#5

• Nov 28, 2005

• #5

Nice car. A little body work and you are off and running.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

NasaGT

Founding Member

Sep 19, 2002

1,993

2

49

Virginia

Nov 28, 2005

#6

• Nov 28, 2005

• #6

Nice car! Congrats!

 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member

Oct 5, 2002

1,104

0

36

NJ

Nov 28, 2005

#7

• Nov 28, 2005

• #7

How bad is the battory apron fix? I know mine is rusted up, but I think its limited to only the tray itself under the battery. Im planning on putting the batery in the rear anyways, so can I just cut out the tray?

 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici

Admin Dude

Nov 29, 1999

1,366

202

154

the Shadow Gallery

Nov 28, 2005

#8

• Nov 28, 2005

• #8

Looks good and is a nice find!

 

t_chelle16

Keeper of the closet key

Founding Member

May 8, 2002

3,610

0

0

Knob Noster, Mo.

Nov 28, 2005

#9

• Nov 28, 2005

• #9

BullittStangV8 said:

How bad is the battory apron fix? I know mine is rusted up, but I think its limited to only the tray itself under the battery. Im planning on putting the batery in the rear anyways, so can I just cut out the tray?

Click to expand...

Well, there's the battery tray itself and there's the apron which is that whole panel on the passenger side of the engine bay. I believe it's just a bolt-on panel, but don't quote me on that since I haven't actually done it before (mine needs it also). And even if it is just bolt-on, it would probably be a lot easier to do with the engine out.

-Chelle

 

dennis112

15 Year Member

May 15, 2005

1,561

36

79

Amish Wonderland of Central PA.

Nov 28, 2005

#10

• Nov 28, 2005

• #10

The battery tray unbolts. The apron has both bolts and spotwelds and is structural in nature. To replace it in its entirety requires good welding skills.

The fastest and easiest way to repair the apron is to cut out the bad area and replace it with a new piece. To maintain originality, I will buy a repro apron to cut out the needed area and then discard the rest. Time is saved in that you will not need to remove the RH fender to complete the job. Engine compartment strength is not compromised, as long as the repair is capable of supporting the weight of the battery you would be fine.

Perhaps another reason to retain most of the original apron is that often, at least on 66's, a VIN # is stamped on the top (under the fender.)

 

t_chelle16

Keeper of the closet key

Founding Member

May 8, 2002

3,610

0

0

Knob Noster, Mo.

Nov 28, 2005

#11

• Nov 28, 2005

• #11

Cool. I'll keep that in mind when I get around to doing mine.

-Chelle

 

I

Ilikeponys

New Member

Nov 22, 2005

17

0

0

Nov 28, 2005

#12

• Nov 28, 2005

• #12

Its in good shape rust wise. I did do a good check when I bought it. Its been a california car its whole life which is good.