Pics of upper and lowers installed...

stang8urimport

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Apr 18, 2006

#1

• Apr 18, 2006

• #1

Well, I put upper and lowers in the 90 about 2 months ago... JDI double adjustable uppers, and JDI adjustable lowers... Awesome parts... But I messed up... Where the lower conects to the axle, there is a metal sleave, instead of a bushing... well, I didn't wanna really struggle with getting it in there, so I ground it down. Well it slid in fine, but when I bolted it on, the control arm itself was bolted to the axle, not the bushing.. I ground them too much... So today I took them back out and ground down the arm itself so the sleave would protrude... making it the attaching point like it should be... Anyyyyyywho... Here they are installed, with spherical axle bushings, adjustable rear swaybar... and my custom hacked to fit with an adjustable sway bar FMS girdle


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And a pic of my dads truck... 99 5.4 w/ a powerdyne blower I installed for him some years ago... and I dropped it 3 front, 4 rear... and 20s... I love this truck. It will surprise a number of people.



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GreatWhite

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Feb 24, 2006

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Fairfield, PA

Apr 18, 2006

#2

• Apr 18, 2006

• #2

nice work

nice truck

 

Strype

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Huntsvegas, AL

Apr 18, 2006

#3

• Apr 18, 2006

• #3

I need those... let me know how they work out for ya

 

D

DeVus1

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P-Town, Va.

Apr 18, 2006

#4

• Apr 18, 2006

• #4

How long did it take you to do the lowers?

 

Strype

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Apr 18, 2006

#5

• Apr 18, 2006

• #5

lowers are easy... uppers are what I'm worried about


Edit: Oh yeah except for the spring part

 

stang8urimport

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Apr 18, 2006

#6

• Apr 18, 2006

• #6

Thanks guys...

The lowers only take about 30-45 minutes... Hardest part is getting them to line up with the axle... Well, S&B gave me the best tip to date... I grabbed a ratcheting strap (tie downs) and put it around the axle, and the subframe connector... ratcheted it.. and man.. lined up instantly... These arms are super quality... Like I said.. I messed up and trimmed the sleaves...

The best thing... NOW I HAVE REAR SUSPENSION! omg... I was bouncing everywhere before I took these back off and fixed it... It felt like I had blocks, not springs in the rear... binding so bad. Now I feel like it's a BMW lol.. well not that great. haha. But I don't bounce and hit my head on the ceiling. I would buy these arms over and over again.

Nick

 

stang8urimport

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#7

• Apr 18, 2006

• #7

HoodStrype said:

lowers are easy... uppers are what I'm worried about


Edit: Oh yeah except for the spring part

Click to expand...

The uppers are cake.. I knocked out the shell and bushing from the axle with my air hammer.. came right out... clean it up, slide the spherical axle bushing in, thread lock it... and thread it in. Uppers were 19192192 times easier then the lowers.

 

Strype

Cuthbert catcher

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Huntsvegas, AL

Apr 18, 2006

#8

• Apr 18, 2006

• #8

Cool! You can use a jack under the pumpkin (chunk) too btw

 

stang8urimport

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#9

• Apr 18, 2006

• #9

I did that when I first installed them... It literally took two hours just to get the lowers in... what a PITA... Ratcheting strap is soooo much easier... If I was just taking them out and putting them back in, it would have taken 30 minutes.

 

Strype

Cuthbert catcher

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Apr 18, 2006

#10

• Apr 18, 2006

• #10

I'll try that... I hate the springs but they're a lot easier than the fronts... I think I'd rather pour Ben Gay in Chuck Norris's underwear than do that again

 

stang8urimport

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#11

• Apr 18, 2006

• #11

Springs gave me no problem...??? Just grab your jack... put it under the lower... slide the spring in and push it all the way up... and jack the lower up till the spring is on the lower... Not very hard.

 

stang8urimport

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#12

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ttt for your viewing pleasure.

 

RsStanG1987

I shaved all my pubes playing this game.

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Apr 18, 2006

#13

• Apr 18, 2006

• #13

What if i did one upper at a time would i need the tie down for that? also would i be able to knock the bushing out with a regular hammer?

 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row

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Woodward Ave.

Apr 18, 2006

#14

• Apr 18, 2006

• #14

Looks good.

 

stang8urimport

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#15

• Apr 18, 2006

• #15

RsStanG1987 said:

What if i did one upper at a time would i need the tie down for that? also would i be able to knock the bushing out with a regular hammer?

Click to expand...

The uppers are much easier... You don't need a tie down for them. A hammer probably wouldn't work, but I would be more then happy to help you install them if you'd like to drive over here. Air tools rule.

Also, you don't really need to do the spherical axle bushings if you don't want, which would eliminate that problem... But they are really nice... But will transfer road noise. It's really louder at low speeds and goes for the most part away at higher speeds.

 

RsStanG1987

I shaved all my pubes playing this game.

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Apr 18, 2006

#16

• Apr 18, 2006

• #16

I have a set of urethane bushings to put in with my steeda uppers but dont have a drill or air hammer to take the old bushings out..
What is that red bar you have back there i dont think i have one?

 

stang8urimport

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Daytona Beach, FL

Apr 18, 2006

#17

• Apr 18, 2006

• #17

It's an adjustable rear swaybar. It's an addon sway bar. Really keeps the car flat in turns. It will probably go once I get a panhard bar.

Nick

 

stang8urimport

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#18

• Apr 18, 2006

• #18

RsStanG1987 said:

I have a set of urethane bushings to put in with my steeda uppers but dont have a drill or air hammer to take the old bushings out..
What is that red bar you have back there i dont think i have one?

Click to expand...

Also, you could just use a torch and burn out the bushing. Works great... Once it's all out, just use a wire brush or what not to clean it out... Remember, the shell has to stay in, and the bushing comes out. JDI also sells the bushing removal tool... Just Ebay them. I'd still be up for helping if you need any.


Nick

 

RsStanG1987

I shaved all my pubes playing this game.

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Apr 18, 2006

#19

• Apr 18, 2006

• #19

Ill have to see when i can make it out to daytona...