Pics Please!

2vNotch · Feb 1, 2012

Im wanting to change my suspension up and go for a "drag" setup, but i dont want my car to look or feel like a truck. I also do not want to go coil over. Heres what im thinking: 90/10 front struts, 50/50 rear shocks, and moroso trick springs front and rear.... I have an 88 coupe with 15in welds btw, any1 have pics of this or suggestions on a better, possibly cheaper setup?

2vNotch · Feb 2, 2012

myslo50 · Feb 2, 2012

The advantages of coil overs is you can adj ride height with a spanner wrench. The moroso trick springs I believe will make the car sit a little higher than normal, they advertise on there site that you can cut the springs to desired ride height, but also changes spring rate the more you cut. Drag springs usually make the car sit high for having a soft spring rate for weight transfer, but like I said you can cut springs also for ride height. Hope this helps a little.

txstang84 · Feb 3, 2012

Is there a particular reason you don't want to use coil overs, or is it just to save a few bucks? From what I've read, if you use the Moroso springs, it's a good idea to bag the right rear to keep down the body roll. 90/10 struts, and 50/50 shocks would be a good start, but keep in mind the struts will alter the way the car handles on the street. When you set a car up for 1/4 mile, your street driving gets a little "loose", so don't expect to cut corners as fast as you used to. Another quick way to get weight transfer is to remove your front sway bar...drops a little weight too.

Don't neglect your chassis though when you're setting up for drag. I'm sure you already know what's happening to the car when you launch-everything is shock loaded, and fox bodies aren't known for being robustly built. So, if you haven't put in some subframes, and reinforced your torque boxes-or at least welded them-you're looking at creating some damage. Depending on how far/fast you wanna go, you might wanna look into buying a cage of some kind. There's nothing really wrong with your setup, but there are a few other little details that will help you hook better on the track. If you can swing it a good set of adjustable uppers would allow you to adjust your pinion angle. Better lowers would be a good investment too...the factory bushings leave much to be desired.

2vNotch · Feb 3, 2012

txstang84 said:
Is there a particular reason you don't want to use coil overs, or is it just to save a few bucks? From what I've read, if you use the Moroso springs, it's a good idea to bag the right rear to keep down the body roll. 90/10 struts, and 50/50 shocks would be a good start, but keep in mind the struts will alter the way the car handles on the street. When you set a car up for 1/4 mile, your street driving gets a little "loose", so don't expect to cut corners as fast as you used to. Another quick way to get weight transfer is to remove your front sway bar...drops a little weight too.

Don't neglect your chassis though when you're setting up for drag. I'm sure you already know what's happening to the car when you launch-everything is shock loaded, and fox bodies aren't known for being robustly built. So, if you haven't put in some subframes, and reinforced your torque boxes-or at least welded them-you're looking at creating some damage. Depending on how far/fast you wanna go, you might wanna look into buying a cage of some kind. There's nothing really wrong with your setup, but there are a few other little details that will help you hook better on the track. If you can swing it a good set of adjustable uppers would allow you to adjust your pinion angle. Better lowers would be a good investment too...the factory bushings leave much to be desired.

I dont want to go coil over just for now, bc prob by next year im going to add a tubular kmember, arms etc., and i will surely do it then. For now, its just to save a few bucks as u said. Im not worried about losing my cornering ability, as my pizza cutters up front and having already ditched the sway bar took that out of the equation. I do already have reinforced torque boxes, subframe connectors and a cage that are all tied in together. I do have adjustable upper and lowers already as well.

txstang84 · Feb 3, 2012

Well, alright! Sounds like you're off to a good start then-I guess I should've asked what all was already done to the car, eh? From what little I know about the Moroso springs, they do work-even better with an airbag. The only thing really to improve would be coil overs front and rear I would think-apart from going with a 4 link and thru-floor rails. But, talk to Rick91GT or some of the other die hard track guys and I'm sure they could tell you volumes more than I can.

2vNotch · Feb 3, 2012

lol Appreciate the help either way! Just really wanting to see some pics of some foxes on welds and what their setups are.....

need4spd90 · Feb 3, 2012

forget the lakewoods and get the Strange 10 ways at all 4 corners..full adjustability to help with changing track conditions, and can be dialed stiff enuff to run on the street without nose diving every time you touch the middle pedal..rear drag springs are worthless IMO, the stock v8 springs do just fine, but you'll need to cut a little off to get the right ride height..usually 1/2 coil to 1 full coil...you want the front and rear lower control arm bolt centers to be as close as possible to being the same distance from the ground

the Moroso rear springs are 2 different lengths and rates..a stiffer one goes on the right side to act as an airbag would to try to combat body roll..i tried a set on my car..my 60's got worse, so i slapped the stockers back in and went back to where i was..front drag springs will definitely need to be cut, they usually make the car sit like a 4x4 uncut..if you want a budget drag spring until you go coilover that wont make your car look like Ivan Stewarts Baja truck, put some fox 4cyl springs up front..they lower the front end about 3/4" and are soft enuff to transfer weight and work really well for a budget drag setup..just my $.02

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