Pictures of long tubes installed?
- Thread starter 02 281 GT
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ratio411
Founding Member
I started a conversation on the subject I posted earlier.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/conversations/link-to-discussion-on-lt-headers.263462/
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/conversations/link-to-discussion-on-lt-headers.263462/
I have also used 94/95 specific long tubes, cut the bung off, welded the hole, grinded smooth, then ceramic coated them. That's one other option in the 94/95 version. I've got a set right now that I'll probably be doing that on.
I agree with Vibrant...under no circumstance should chrome headers be purchased. Ceramic is the best way to go.
revhead347...good tip on the Explorer o2 sensors.
I agree with Vibrant...under no circumstance should chrome headers be purchased. Ceramic is the best way to go.
revhead347...good tip on the Explorer o2 sensors.
ratio411
Founding Member
Someone needs to make that info "Sticky"...
Over time, that info would help a great number of people.
I wish I had done a how to Long Tube thread last time I installed them on a car. I could definately include specific info like that. If I ever get enough money together to replace my current longtubes, I'm going to do it. I hardly ever use my digital camera anymore, and it's safe to say I can donate it to the garage to get all greasy. The first time you do longtubes, it's really hard to know exactly how to jack up the engine to make them fit. Once you have done it once, it's really easy. I had to pull one of my longtubes in a parking lot, and did it in 40 minutes.
Kurt
Kurt
I didn't need to jack the engine to install the hooker super comps due to some of the tubes being removable. Last time I jacked an engine was on my '86. Can't remember exactly how I did it, either. Do you jack one side at a time? I seem to remember jacking the entire engine at once didn't really give me much room before the bellhousing hit the firewall.
Yeah, unless you have the transmission disconnected jacking up the whole engine doesn't enhance the clearance much because eventually the bell housing hits the body. You have to disconnect each motor mount one at a time and jack up the engine so that it tilts over. There is enough clearance to slip the headers in this way if you do it this way. Removing the starter makes it easier to get the passenger side in. Disconnecting the steering shaft is essential to getting the driver's side in.
Kurt
Kurt
Is there much difference from the 1 5/8's to the 1 3/4's when it comes to ground clearance?Here are a couple chassis shots when I was bending my exhaust to fit.
Hope these help. I too would go with 1 5/8 unless your going to supercharge it.
Also shouldn't be much hp/torque difference between the same Na engines and swapping from 1 5/8's to 1 3/4s or will there?
Called BBK the other day and if they used to I guess they no longer make a 1 3/4 for the SN95. I emailed you earlier too by the way
I've noticed you are bumping a lot of old threads-here is a useful piece of info when asking old thread participants .if you click on there name-it will (usually) tell you the last time they where on StangnetCalled BBK the other day and if they used to I guess they no longer make a 1 3/4 for the SN95. I emailed you earlier too by the way
Hope this info helps.
Yes I usually check all of that information out unless I'm in a rush or on the phone or whatever the case is.I've noticed you are bumping a lot of old threads-here is a useful piece of info when asking old thread participants .if you click on there name-it will (usually) tell you the last time they where on Stangnet
Hope this info helps.
Really sorry about that guys. Have honestly not been on here much. Been really busy. I did get the email. He's doing the right thing, and using the search button instead of blasting off a new thread on a question that may have already been answered.
Like most things SN95, information on SN95 headers is becoming harder to find, because the car is now 22 years old. The whole market is focussed on Coyotes and Focus RS, etc, because that is is where all the money is. I actually remember putting FOX headers on an SN like 18 years ago, but when I called BBK, they had never heard of it. Truth is, they have probably had an entire staff turn over since the SN headers were designed, and nobody currently working there has any idea why those headers were bent in that pattern. I actually sent them detailed pictures of the install with instructions and part numbers so they could pass the information on to others.
Kurt
Like most things SN95, information on SN95 headers is becoming harder to find, because the car is now 22 years old. The whole market is focussed on Coyotes and Focus RS, etc, because that is is where all the money is. I actually remember putting FOX headers on an SN like 18 years ago, but when I called BBK, they had never heard of it. Truth is, they have probably had an entire staff turn over since the SN headers were designed, and nobody currently working there has any idea why those headers were bent in that pattern. I actually sent them detailed pictures of the install with instructions and part numbers so they could pass the information on to others.
Kurt
Nice and informative. I appreciate you taking the time to reply via email and share your knowledge and helping out. I whole heartedly agree about the new age stuff and folks now probably not having much knowledge. After i build this 331 and buy another sn95 cobra to do a 400, I'll focus on the Terminator and may sell one of the SN's. I want to build both though and hell, may end up with 3 cars to keep
One of the reasons I'm so addimat about building definitely 2 SN is because after my car that I've had since 95 was totaled 2 yrs ago I wanted to fix it at first but and the guy at the first body shop was a blessing in taking so long to get started. It allowed me to take more time to decide what i truly wanted to do. After taking it to another shop and the guy pretty much telling me that He could fix it but guarantees on getting it 100 100 % and for the cost I might of been better off just getting another car and building or transferring things off of it. So anyway I decided to just go ahead and build the one I bought and do a 400. Well I always wanted to have a few different cars setup different mechanically and cosmetically and over the past month I said I'm going to do a saleen and a cobra and one as a 331 and the other as a 400. Build 350-375 HP, then build 500 HP, then the Termi built so that's the plan of action that I hope to follow and do. I'll at some point I'm sure step up to the newer age stuff after doing all 3 cars and maybe keeping all 3 or selling one or 2; who knows
I am buying a Focus RS real soon. Blows my mind that a Roush Focus RS is 500hp. I am definitely living in the past.
Kurt
Kurt
Woww.
A stang though is my pastime and I'd rather not have any other car; though those new vettes look good though. I actually like the new base vettes body much much better than the new stangs. I'd have to have the stang with other aerodynamics, maybe a kit or something, and offset wheels and everything to like it over the vette ( cosmetically)
I live in Atlanta, 4th worst traffic in America. Most of my driving is done at 8mph. I want something small, with 4 doors so it's easy to get the little one in and out, etc. Good visibility and can dart in and out of lanes quickly. Another musclecar is not what I need. I have a lot of friends with Vettes. There is no arguing with the performance, but they aren't built very well, and fall apart pretty quickly.
Kurt
Kurt
oh I did not know that about vets. Man I want no parts of ATL LOL, absolutely none so and if I lived there I would drive something decent but old with a tough body that ran good for all that traffic and stuff in if it got beat up on a little bit I wouldn't worry bout it. driving anything precious and good around there would not be good LOL
