Progress Thread Pilot bearing VS TOB?

[NurseGuy]

Update: Transmission is back together and TOB retainer has been replaced. It was very difficult to find the part, so, my transmission guy found someone who machines them out of billet steel. He machines most parts for the T-45 transmission from what I'm told, but he lives almost in Canada. This is why it took so long to get the part in. I could have paid double the price for expedited shipping, but, I didn't know this at the time. All in all, #ProjectBlancaStang has a new clutch, quadrant, firewall adjuster, TOB, pilot bearing, clutch plate, resurfaced flywheel, TOB bearing retainer, and a new spedometer gear to match the 3.73 gears. Now my speedo will be accurate and there will be no more guessing my speed. This process has taught me alot about patience and also about the mechanics of my Mustang. Next phase..... exhaust and windoow tint. Then, I'd like to get new factory seats as my leather is very dry and beginning to crack in spots. Oh..... I would also like to supercharge it one day but that is way down the line. I should have my baby back by mid day on the 4th. My guy is delaying his trip to the lake just so he can make sure my car gets put back together! I thought this was more than kind, and I am very appreciative. I'm also very appreciative for all of you guys and the information / guidance that has been shared with me.
I LOVE MY STANG...... the sounds, the vibrations, the ride, the smells, the EVERYTHING!

 

[NurseGuy]

UPDATE:

Need help again. Went to pick up the car today and it's worse than before. New clutch and TOB retainer sleeve. Now it's rattling, grinding, chirping, and the clutch is super soft. It also got stuck in reverse coming out of the shop driveway. WTF!? Should I just take this guy to court or let him try to fix it..... again?

 

[Acj2001_Fordman]

Its unfortunate that the extra part was broken, but mechanics can't keep all necessary parts in stock. Especially ones that are not everyday common replacements such as a bearing / seal. I think you making the correct decision replacing all the components. No reason to take the transmission in and out multiple times. I hope you researched the type and style of clutches before making a selection. Clutches and pressure plates are designed for different styles of performance.

My replacement clutch has great engagement under high loads, but it also comes at the expense of heavy pedal pressure. Looking back I wish I would have choose the next upgrade for a lower pedal pressure. (my clutch is a manual cable). Good luck with the repair. Happy Independence Day!

 

[Acj2001_Fordman]

Just saw your most recent response.....I think the main front bearing of the transmission and the TOB bearing guide tube are integral components. If the front main bearing retainer was damaged, and operated for a long time, it could have worn the main transmission bearing 'goofy'. Tightening the retainer back up in its original condition might have thrown the roller bearings out of its newly worn groove. That's kind of worst case scenario. Better yet why was the original guide broken??? This is not a typical component I have seen damaged.

The transmission getting stuck in reverse probably just means the clutch cable is not adjusted correctly. Side note what mechanic doesn't test drive a transmission repair???

 

[NurseGuy]

he claims it drove fine when he tested it out. I'm not sure what broke the original guide. It was like this when i purchased it but i didn't know until after i got it home. He had a transmission guy replace it so one would think that anything else damged internally would have been noted when the "transmission guy" broke it apart.

 

[NurseGuy]

Hey guys...... tell me about shims. If he didn't adjust for end play then would that cause me to have rattling noise from transmission and cause it to also get stuck in reverse? I'm thinking he didn't shim it correctly when he replaced the bearing retainer tube.

 

[NurseGuy]

UPDATE:

Blanca is back on the road. I was told that a bearing had come apart (wasn't informed as to which one it was) inside the transmission. This unnamed bearing was replaced and now it's almost perfect. The short throw shifter feels like it needs to be adjusted a bit more as it doesn't feel tight like it once was. There is some difficulty from time to time going into 5th gear, and to get reverse I have to go up into 5th first then down into revers (note that this was an issue prior to having this work done). I'm thinking about maybe buying a new shifter as well. There is this mustang guru who lives just a few miles from me and I found him on accident while searching forums. He's going to give it a look over and see what he thinks! All in all, it's 90% better than it was . Oh.....I also forgot...... the dumped exhaust is now banging against the frame because they didn't bolt it back up correctly. This is what was causing that "rattle" I was attempting to describe a few posts above. I can shake the pipes with my finger and I can see where it's hitting the frame. No worries though, because Monday I'm having magnaflows installed and running tips out the back. I'm NOT a fan of dumps! I think I am going to cut my ties with this mechanic which sucks, because he has always done right by me up until this point. I think he knows less than he claims to know as he said that he "didn't know" why the shifter was being temperamental all of a sudden. Any input of why my shifter isn't as "accurate" as it previously was??? The clutch is engaging where it should about 2-4" from the floor and doesn't feel like it's dragging.

 

[NurseGuy]

quick question..... how would one know if the clutch needs to be adjusted more and/or the shifter? The shifter isn't as "tight" as it was and the gears are hit and miss. It's like I have to hunt them down, but, once I find them it pops in just fine except 5th is a bit wonky.

 

[Acj2001_Fordman]

Probably misaligned / not properly installed shift forks and or synchronizers inside the transmission.

Exhaust rattles are typical. I have to frequently adjust mine. The space at the cat back is very limited.

 

[NurseGuy]

how would the synchro's be misaligned if the guy didn't touch them? I guess when the bell housing was taken off to replace the bearing retainer something shifted???? F*ck me man..... I guess I don't need to drive it like this then??? As far as the exhaust rattle..... it sounds like the is falling out from underneath the car, especially in reverse. I can also see one of my dumps hanging lower than the other.

 

[Acj2001_Fordman]

No, the synchronizers should not have been damaged if he didn't take the transmission apart (unless they were damaged from too many power shifts). The bearing retainer is on the front of the case. Don't have to remove the top cover or the internals to replace the front bearing retainer.

 

[NurseGuy]

No power shifting. At least not by me....the guy I bought her from pampered her. He kept her in a humidity and temp controlled garage under a cover, and once a week he said he would detail her regardless of whether or not she had been on the road that week or not. It runs like a champ, but, it appears I have inherited some clutch issues. I'm thinking that the linkage needs to be adjusted more / fine tuned, or perhaps the short throw shifter needs to be tweaked a bit. It's like the gears are not where they were when I dropped it off to him. Once I find the gear, it goes in fine. No grinding.....except reverse but that is intermittent and has done that since I purchased her. He even pointed out that many times he would have to shift into 5th then down into R. I really want to lay drag but I'm scared to because I don't want to f*ck something up.

 

[Shuttleman83]

Check out clutch cable. These cars with T45's are known to be clunky shifting, there's a certain pattern you have to drop it in before reverse for the lock out. Also, the clutch cable is hugely important to shift smoothness and being too far adjusted out or in can cause it every time that mimics TOB problems. Synchros as

Rattle could be the cable hitting something or even the fork.

 

[NurseGuy]

Check out clutch cable. These cars with T45's are known to be clunky shifting, there's a certain pattern you have to drop it in before reverse for the lock out. Also, the clutch cable is hugely important to shift smoothness and being too far adjusted out or in can cause it every time that mimics TOB problems. Synchros as

Rattle could be the cable hitting something or even the fork.

I will look at the cable today even though I'm not certain that I'm proficient / knowledgeable enough to properly adjust it. My ex is a mustang GURU but he and I have some bad blood and i think he'd be more likely to cut my brake lines vs fix my clutch cable. Lol. It is releasing about 3-4 inches from the floor and clutch feels fine. Very little vibration and no vibration at the shifter. I really don't like the T-45, maybe it'll grown on me, but I just feel like it's to fragile for these cars. I'm having my pipes adjusted today to get them off of the frame (that's where my rattle is coming from). I just want my baby back on the road dammit. I love driving her, and hearing that modular v8 rumble down the road.