Ah I see now. I just pulled the contents of my kit out and looked them over and see the connector. I can solder, so looks like i'm good to go unless I just want to extend the distance. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
PiMPxs vs MS3 (Pro?) vs PNP MS2
- Thread starter Black1987
- Start date
Ah I see now. I just pulled the contents of my kit out and looked them over and see the connector. I can solder, so looks like i'm good to go unless I just want to extend the distance. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
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Sponsors (?)
Actually, the more I dig into this, if soldering isn't your thing, i'd skip the DIY aspect completely and buy one premade.
The Pro M is 1999 and PimpXS is 999. What am I missing here?
Does the Pimp come with engine harness or what about this rotunda harness you guys are talking about.
Basically, what else is required to get a complete kit?
my pricing reflects what LMR shows.
The PIMPXS uses the factory harness, what we are talking about here is building your own MS3x and using the rotunda harness as an attachment point to the factory system so as not to damage any of the factory wiring.
You can build your own MS3X for $560... or buy one for 730 pre built...
The pimpxs is a megasquirt but it is made by Stinger performance not DIYAUTOTUNE...
You can order a full harness from 3rd party companies that will plug directly into the MS3X and still come out 800 cheaper than the ProM
stangboy
Founding Member
I bought the PIMPxs this past fall. I also bought the engine harness that's customized to the PIMPxs, wide band O2 kit(Spartan I think), and A/F gauge. The grand total came to about $1600.
I haven't installed it all on the car yet tho.
Steel1
Mustang Master
Last year when I purchased the PimpXS it was $900 with a base tune and all install/start-up instructions.
This combined with wide band wired in (explained in instructions) is all you need to get running/tuning.
They will gladly sell you a wideband kit, fancy tuning gauge etc. but that's optional.
This combined with wide band wired in (explained in instructions) is all you need to get running/tuning.
They will gladly sell you a wideband kit, fancy tuning gauge etc. but that's optional.
The soldering isnt bad as long as it THT, right?
Sorry for the delay response, was closing/ moving into the burbs with my prego.
Semi related but did anyone see the new Holley Terminator X. I feel like if they did a ford version they could almost push these set ups out.
Sorta, they i/o is very limited on it but the price point is good. For a similar price you could do a ms3pro and have 10x the features.
It was just interesting it came with the wideband( i think) and dash. Given the dash is small but still. The guy across the street recieved one to put on his youtube page for his 8 second mustang at drag week this year. Wonder if he’ll keep his MS3 as a back up.
It's all THT, which isn't bad but there's a few spots it gets tight and you really need a steady hand.
I'm almost done building mine. Really hasn't been difficult at all . Almost going to be disappointed when done....I've enjoyed it
I guess it all depends on what you'd call a "steady hand" . I don't have Parkinson's or Alzheimer's or anything, but I do have to brace my hand against something to steady it if I'm welding or doing intricate work like what is needed to build an ecu project like you've pictured.It's all THT, which isn't bad but there's a few spots it gets tight and you really need a steady hand.
I'm almost done building mine. Really hasn't been difficult at all . Almost going to be disappointed when done....I've enjoyed it
I've purchased 2 ms2's, and 1 DIYPNP kit from DIYautotune over the years dating back to 2006. The first time I saw what came in the box back then, I sent it back, thinking that it was too complicated. I built a DIY PNP kit for the red car when I planned to turbocharge the 4 banger, but sold that off after completing it, when I switched engines over to the 2v4.6.
I built the current MS2 for the monster several years ago sitting in my Jammie's on a Saturday morning. It's not rocket science.
Soldering a circuit board together is only slightly more difficult than painting by numbers.
I too liked the " build/test" part of the project...it's like a class science project on steroids. I found the mega-manual instructions to be 85% on point. The 15% remainder being the "optional" parts : i.e. " If you are using xxx for your ignition, don't install this, or remove that, or be sure to do this ." Some of that left me wondering if I had did it right. ( obviously, I did). If I had one wish/ concern about my decision to go this route, it would be that SOMEBODY would take the time to print a nicely done, plain English owners manual for the thing explaining every option in the build..An example of which, would be the boost mod...Somebody find a clearly defined instruction sheet detailing where to add this thing, with other potential options to use instead of having to dig through the expanse of the Internet..and copying off of a picture. The tuning part....even more so.
I shudder to think how screwed I'd be if there wasn't a Steve out there that could ride along sitting inside my computer to sort thus thing out.
For all of the capabilities of a ms3x,...they'd do themselves a greater good if they told you what you needed to do to add the necessary circuits to do the things it can, and do it in the same fashion that a "Building a Megasquirt ecu for dummies" would do. I realize that there is copious amounts of documentation out there on a lot of this,..but it may as well be written in another language...it needs to follow an ABC order to be relate able.
Somebody is gonna get rich off of this...Unfortunately, I'm the Dummy that needs the book, not the Smarty that can write it.
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I kinda agree. The directions could be a little better, but I understand they are written for general use and not for specific applications. There were parts of the install instructions that sent me reading a different section 50 pages away to see if I need to install something.
For the most part, this one page helped the most in telling what special mods needed install and what settings to use
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ford/megasquirt-your-mustang-5-0/
Of course, some other things could be clearer. For instance the Ford VSS is useless to the MS unless you convert the signal or just install a hall sensor.
For the most part, this one page helped the most in telling what special mods needed install and what settings to use
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ford/megasquirt-your-mustang-5-0/
Of course, some other things could be clearer. For instance the Ford VSS is useless to the MS unless you convert the signal or just install a hall sensor.
How is the ford vss useless? It's a variable reluctor sensor. Build a vr input identical to one used for a cam or crank input, then across the input vr+ vr- place a 10k resistor to filter the input.
Easy peasy.
Easy peasy.
See, That's what I mean. Finding this info , as a novice, has been hard to do. Not one resource I have read mentioned any of this as a way to make use of the VSS.
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Now i am going to flood you with some information here so bear with me a bit....
The VR circuit requires conditioning so it will produce a 5v input to a digital input on the MS3, the issue is that a VR sensor produces an AC sine wave of ever increasing magnitude..... this input to the MS3 will kill the i/o...
to use the standard VR input you can add this conditioning board for $45 and add a bunch of extra functionality https://www.diyautotune.com/product/zeal-engineering-daughterboard-with-dual-vr-conditioners/
The option above makes things easy easy...
OR we can build the circuit LM1815 from scratch.... this will require you to test your skills in the proto area of the MS3, thats the area to build extra stuff...
http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/tachin-v30.html scroll all the way to the bottom for the circuit. I can help you with the "where to connect" for the Vss input on the mainboard.
now all those options aside for using the stock Vss sensor... we could also use this instead!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-800600fmc/overview/ this will allow you to use the factory wiring [you will have to splice the VSS wires under the car] or modify some male spade connectors and plug them in and tape them in place. the ground for this hall sensor will need to be done to chassis ground under the car. This is the easiest solution.
The VR circuit requires conditioning so it will produce a 5v input to a digital input on the MS3, the issue is that a VR sensor produces an AC sine wave of ever increasing magnitude..... this input to the MS3 will kill the i/o...
to use the standard VR input you can add this conditioning board for $45 and add a bunch of extra functionality https://www.diyautotune.com/product/zeal-engineering-daughterboard-with-dual-vr-conditioners/
The option above makes things easy easy...
OR we can build the circuit LM1815 from scratch.... this will require you to test your skills in the proto area of the MS3, thats the area to build extra stuff...
http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/tachin-v30.html scroll all the way to the bottom for the circuit. I can help you with the "where to connect" for the Vss input on the mainboard.
now all those options aside for using the stock Vss sensor... we could also use this instead!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-800600fmc/overview/ this will allow you to use the factory wiring [you will have to splice the VSS wires under the car] or modify some male spade connectors and plug them in and tape them in place. the ground for this hall sensor will need to be done to chassis ground under the car. This is the easiest solution.
Thanks Steve. As usual you are a wealth of knowledge on this subject. I really need to give you a call and run a few things by you one of these days.
Looks like the add on board is ms1/ms2 only, and not sure the summit sensor allows use of th mechanical cable as well.
I can build the circuit, just needed a gentle nudge in the right direction.
I have my stim showing up in the mail so I'll likely be doing some bench testing shortly. Looks like I can build and test this as well
