Pinging on SCT tunes

[sarmikgar]

Got my SCT SF3 today, installed the 87 tune with some changes to the shift points and shift firmness.. result was not so great, the trans was acting really funny, it would like hunt for a gear but always go back to the same one(this was in second I think)under normal driving conditions, the car would like stop accelerating it was shifting "out" and back into gear very fast over and over. Also if at a lower rpm(1500-2k)and you step on it it will ping for a second. I checked the dtc after this drive and found p1233, cleared it, never got dash light.

I adjusted the tune and took out the shift firmness back to 0%, and turned the shift points for 1-2 and 2-3 up only 2mph. This seemed to help with the trans, but there was still a little pinging when throttle is jumped on. Checked dtc and was clear after drive.

I tried to set the tune for 87 Economy, went for a drive, and still pinging if I jump on it around 1500 rpm. Will ping for a just a short second, almost more of a short crunch then goes away if you stay in the throttle. Checked dtc, was clear.

The only mod on the car is a CAI, car only has 63k on it. I didnt expect these tunes to ping.. would just an intake cause these tunes to run that lean, whats the deal? Should I call up SCT or AM and see what they have to say? Or am I possibly missing something here?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

[Pearl02]

I would start by pulling 2 degrees of timing out between 0 to 2000 rpms (I think that's the range set up on the SCT). You could also add some fuel between that range. Someone else chim in. Pearl02.

 

[nyuk98gt]

sarmikgar:

The back-and-forth shifting sounds like the upshift/downshift curves are crossing. This shouldn't happen with an SF3 flasher but, like anything, it could happen. Call SCT. They will figure it out and get things right for you.

Chris

 

[Flghtmstr1]

Some cars ping while others do not. Work with Nick from AM to get it figured out.

 

[sarmikgar]

I would start by pulling 2 degrees of timing out between 0 to 2000 rpms (I think that's the range set up on the SCT). You could also add some fuel between that range. Someone else chim in. Pearl02.

Gave that a shot yesterday, test drove it during the day that time and I think the pinging was worse even. There is no adjustment for fuel like that, only WOT A/F ratio, pulling out 2* timing under 2k had no effect it seemed.

Will be calling/emailing etc today to try to get some help. Currently very disappointed with the product.

 

[Pearl02]

Gave that a shot yesterday, test drove it during the day that time and I think the pinging was worse even. There is no adjustment for fuel like that, only WOT A/F ratio, pulling out 2* timing under 2k had no effect it seemed.

Will be calling/emailing etc today to try to get some help. Currently very disappointed with the product.

I'm surprised that the pinging seem to get worst with 2 degrees of timing pulled out. It has been awhile since I had to play around with my tunes. I'm not sure how much user adjustabilty your tuner gave you. With my device I can make fuel changes between rpm ranges as I please. I know your disappointed right now but it really is a good device. Call whoever you ordered it from and work with them to make tunes right. They may want you to datalog the car and send the file to them so they can look at it. Good luck man. Pearl02.

 

[sarmikgar]

Contacted SCT and they tried to say it was a problem with the car.

Here is their reply:

Sounds like you might be running into a fuel restriction do to a mechanical issue. Check common fuel-related wear items, such as fuel filter, injectors, fuel pump, etc. An aftermarket tune leaves little room for error due to mechanical issues, whereas the stock engine management calibration is much more forgiving.

I was busy with kids going back to school and other stuff so I put off calling AM till today. The tech I spoke to (Ryan) suggested that I check the spark plugs to look for lean/rich condition, age of plugs, and type. He suggested that switching to a copper plug could help, and that he would send me an email tune soon as I get some info back to him.

Hopefully that will work out, will post results.

 

[Liberto]

I agree with pearl02... i bought mine from AM just because its free tunes for life... and i'm glad i did... i did a 93 octane strategy tune and my car was running very bad i couldnt even drive it downt he road... i called ryan had him make me a custom tune... car runs perfect... dont do a strategy tune... get one made from whoever you ordered it from... TRUST ME... its a well worth product

 

[Pearl02]

I agree with pearl02... i bought mine from AM just because its free tunes for life... and i'm glad i did... i did a 93 octane strategy tune and my car was running very bad i couldnt even drive it downt he road... i called ryan had him make me a custom tune... car runs perfect... dont do a strategy tune... get one made from whoever you ordered it from... TRUST ME... its a well worth product

I'm glad it's working out for you. I just responed to your last post about hanging rpm's. The key is to find a good tuner. I had my car dyno tuned by a local shop here in KC. I had problems with the tune. The guy did try to make it right but I wasn't satisfied with the results. I started to play around with the device myself. I was able to get the car to respond well to some of the changes I made. I took a shot with Doug over at Bamachips. He wrote me 3 custom tunes and emailed them to me. I've never been more happier with the results. Doug did a great job for me. Pearl02.

 

[2002BLGT]

code P1233 is a a code for the fuel pump driver module , I think SCT guys were right , sounds like fuel pump or the fuel pump driver module is on the verge of failing , not uncommon on these cars either , the SF3 tune should have ran just fine if anything these tunes are more conservative than the custom SCT tunes you will get from most dealers

P1233 - Fuel System Disabled or Offline LS6/LS8:
For LS6/LS8, P1233 indicates the PCM is not receiving the fuel level information on SCP from the rear electronics module (REM). Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 413-01 for diagnostics.
All Others:
The PCM monitors the fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit from the fuel pump driver module (FPDM). With the key on, the FPDM continuously sends a duty cycle signal to the PCM through the FPM circuit. The test fails if the PCM stops receiving the duty cycle signal. Inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch needs to be reset
Open FPDM ground circuit
Open or shorted FPM circuit
Damaged IFS switch
Damaged FPDM
Damaged PCM
Also for Escort/Tracer and Mustang:
Open FPDM PWR circuit
Open B+ circuit to constant control relay module (CCRM) pin 11
Open ground to CCRM pin 18 (Mustang)
Damaged CCRM
Also for Continental:
Open VPWR circuit to FPDM
The PCM expects to see one of the following duty cycle signals from the FPDM on the FPM circuit: 1) 50% (500 msec on, 500 msec off), all OK. 2) 25% (250 msec on, 750 msec off), FPDM did not receive a fuel pump (FP) duty cycle command from the PCM, or the duty cycle that was received was invalid. 3) 75% (750 msec ON, 250 OFF), the FPDM has detected a fault in the circuits between the FPDM and the fuel pump

 

[sarmikgar]

code P1233 is a a code for the fuel pump driver module , I think SCT guys were right , sounds like fuel pump or the fuel pump driver module is on the verge of failing , not uncommon on these cars either , the SF3 tune should have ran just fine if anything these tunes are more conservative than the custom SCT tunes you will get from most dealers

P1233 - Fuel System Disabled or Offline LS6/LS8:
For LS6/LS8, P1233 indicates the PCM is not receiving the fuel level information on SCP from the rear electronics module (REM). Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 413-01 for diagnostics.
All Others:
The PCM monitors the fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit from the fuel pump driver module (FPDM). With the key on, the FPDM continuously sends a duty cycle signal to the PCM through the FPM circuit. The test fails if the PCM stops receiving the duty cycle signal. Inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch needs to be reset
Open FPDM ground circuit
Open or shorted FPM circuit
Damaged IFS switch
Damaged FPDM
Damaged PCM
Also for Escort/Tracer and Mustang:
Open FPDM PWR circuit
Open B+ circuit to constant control relay module (CCRM) pin 11
Open ground to CCRM pin 18 (Mustang)
Damaged CCRM
Also for Continental:
Open VPWR circuit to FPDM
The PCM expects to see one of the following duty cycle signals from the FPDM on the FPM circuit: 1) 50% (500 msec on, 500 msec off), all OK. 2) 25% (250 msec on, 750 msec off), FPDM did not receive a fuel pump (FP) duty cycle command from the PCM, or the duty cycle that was received was invalid. 3) 75% (750 msec ON, 250 OFF), the FPDM has detected a fault in the circuits between the FPDM and the fuel pump

I considered it.. but I dont have the code after driving around for a week on the stock tune. And prior to the tuner I have never had a dtc. At this point its my guess it was from the SCT tunes/doing the tuning, not certain of this, but it makes sense. Also, having the fuel pump fuse out while tuning may have had some strange effect that pulled code p1233. Its possible I tried to scan with the fuse out, I dont think I did, but maybe..

p1233 should leave the car in a "no start" condition from all the info I have read on it. Ive never had any problems with the car starting, even with the SCT tunes.

It was my thought that they would be "safer" tunes also.. I guess not After speaking with the tech at AM he didnt seem surprised by the pinging, and I mentioned to him that SCT had said it was a mech. problem with the car and he pretty much dismissed it also. He said once that what works on one car may not work on another, even though they are the same car there are alot of variables. While it is possible there is an issue within the fuel system, if so the car is doing a great job of hiding it since it starts right up, runs perfect and has never thrown a code in the past and isnt showing one now after being back on the stock tune for a week.

 

[sarmikgar]

Well great, now the car does not even start on the custom tune, and I put it back to stock and it still wont start, and now it wont even turn on the tuner if I plug that in. Reading 12.45v at the battery, car was driven all day by wife and made several stops. It cranks over once real slow and thats it.

Other posts I found say that my car is now screwed up and needs to be reflashed from the ford dealer. Im so pissed right now

I find this totally ridiculous. I frankly cant even believe its happening.

What a waste of money this has been. Wonder what its gonna cost to fix now. Gotta say I think I am done with mods heh.

 

[sarmikgar]

I was able to put it "back to stock", it turned on the tuner and let me do that.

Still wont start, just a "click" now when the key is turned.

This really sucks

 

[MaxedGT]

12.45 volts is not a fully charged battery by any means. You're tuner is not likely why your car won't start. Your battery could be bad, or you might just have poor battery connections for that matter. if it won't crank, and you pats light isn't flashing, your tune has nothing to do with it. That is assuming you didn't reprogram with a dead battery. Don't try programming any more, until after you get the cranking condition addressed. If the battery voltage goes too low during programming, it's possible to damage the ecm and you'll have to replace it to. I'd bet your battery needs replacing. Still could be the starter or battery connections as well. This is not related to the pinging in any way.
Have you tried jump starting the car?

 

[sarmikgar]

12.45 volts is not a fully charged battery by any means. You're tuner is not likely why your car won't start. Your battery could be bad, or you might just have poor battery connections for that matter. if it won't crank, and you pats light isn't flashing, your tune has nothing to do with it. That is assuming you didn't reprogram with a dead battery. Don't try programming any more, until after you get the cranking condition addressed. If the battery voltage goes too low during programming, it's possible to damage the ecm and you'll have to replace it to. I'd bet your battery needs replacing. Still could be the starter or battery connections as well. This is not related to the pinging in any way.
Have you tried jump starting the car?

Hard to believe its not the tune..

Car was driven all week with no issue in stock form, I got the custom tune in my email today and when wife got home with car I put in the custom tune and now it wont start.

Car ran fine and started 8 times today.

How many volts should this car have? Its a 12v system. Or am I just really frustrated and not thinking correctly right now?

I cant jump it since its in the garage right now, I have the charger on it though. Was at 13.04v last I looked.. from what I know this should be enough.. again maybe I am not thinking straight

 

[sarmikgar]

12.45 volts is not a fully charged battery by any means. You're tuner is not likely why your car won't start. Your battery could be bad, or you might just have poor battery connections for that matter. if it won't crank, and you pats light isn't flashing, your tune has nothing to do with it. That is assuming you didn't reprogram with a dead battery. Don't try programming any more, until after you get the cranking condition addressed. If the battery voltage goes too low during programming, it's possible to damage the ecm and you'll have to replace it to. I'd bet your battery needs replacing. Still could be the starter or battery connections as well. This is not related to the pinging in any way.
Have you tried jump starting the car?

Will have battery tested in the morning. I hope its that!

edit:

Battery is acting funny I think, goes from 13v to 10v after a crank or two(which is not really a crank but a starter click), and/or when charging.. which is odd.. so will have that tested in morning. My other vehicle is a big Dodge truck I cant get into the garage with the Mustang to jump start it, may pull battery from it to try behind the battery in Mustang.

It did recognize it was Mustang GT when strat tune was tried.. so maybe that means its not fried and its the battery.. will find out in the morning.. if its not the battery its the tuner F'ed up my ecu.

 

[sarmikgar]

Been doing some reading.. found this.

Mustang PCM Dealer Flash Updates

I hope AM can take care of me tomorrow morning if its not the battery. Missing cars and coffee in the morning and sons birthday party is this sunday at mother in laws, need car back!

 

[sarmikgar]

Totally wierd..

Car started up out of nowhere, there was no time on my clock showing I noticed and when I went back to check if it was still like that I cranked it over and it started. Turned over slowly. Reading on voltmeter at battery at that time was in the 10s.. Saw 13.8s on it before I pulled it off with car running.

Went for a drive, car drove what seemed like was normal, voltage guage in car didnt move at all. Came back home and tried to start it and it did start but cranked over slowly, turned it off and started it again, but was a slow(er) crank again.

Checked voltage at battery and got reading in the 10s.. I think battery is toast. Will have it tested first thing in the morning.

I cant believe this is a coincidence that the battery went dead on the drive before I put in a custom tune. Scared as hell to use tuner again.

Any chance the tuner could have screwed up the battery? (lol I know it sounds funny, but I have to ask!).

 

[nyuk98gt]

sarmikgar:

The tune had nothing to do with the battery croaking. If it is the original battery, you're lucky it lasted this long. If you can afford the $60 to $80 then get yourself a "Battery Tender" and it will help to keep you battery healthy for a long time.

Chris

 

[sarmikgar]

Yup, bad battery .. I cant believe it. Happy its not the ecu.

Still iffy on using tuner, I may just sell it.. sucks, but I feel jinxed or something lol. Maybe will just hang onto it till I can get a dyno tune.

You guys think this was just bad luck having battery go out on first attempt to custom tune?

Or could something else be wrong possibly?