pinging or u joints

legalize420

Active Member
May 21, 2005
1,541
1
37
South Florida
as some of you may know from my post earlier today i have had my car for a year now. it was bone stock with 99,000 miles for 5200. a few weeks after it needed some work. white smoke, low oil, clutch shaking , low coolant light. it had a new clutch put in, complete tune up, low oil sensor was leaking. was good for a couple of months then got a grinding noise at WOT similar to what i have now. mechanic swaped driveshaft with a from a junk yard ( keep in mind i did not find stangnet till a few months ago ). car ran perfect. my exhaust was the first thing that i ordered. got it installed and the pulleys a few weeks later. after that i started messing with it. throttle body which i totaly messed up because i got very frustrated and to make a long story short i beat the crap out of that thing. next i went investigating the intake. see how hard it would be to do a swap. well it ended it made my cobra intake swap go real smooth because i already knew about all the vacuum lines ( pcv ) in back the that i broke and had to fix. until recently when i did the cobra swap and got my timing set by my mechanic ( 95 bux,it was before i got the timing light ). the car was driving much better but still hanging idle and then surging. i purchased new tps and iac when i got my first tb so they are new. i figured it was the 70 mm on stock motor. i just recently ordered the bbk 65. well this friday i got my timing light. ends up the mechanic had it at eight. i put it at 12 this weekend with the 87 in the car. car drove so much better idle was much better clutch even easier to use. today i filled up 87 because it was fine sat and sun. well i get a chance to open it up for a brief moment and i hear a similar noise to when my driveshaft went. so i figured maybe the 87 and the 12 were not getting along and thats what pinging was so when i got home i set it to 10. car drove very nice but when i was just driving home i gave it a quick test and opened it up and its got the same noise. sorry for the long post. do you think it could be pinging or ujoints or something i dont know about. what does pinging sound like. anything like a bad ujoint. thanks in advance, greg

fwiw, i did not even do an oil change on a car before i found stangnet
 
Pinging will often lessen if you let up a little on the gas pedal. But the torsion on the DS remains the same. ALso one can find the U-joints and grab the DS on each side of the joint and see if there is any slop.

Or just put the timing back to 8* and see if the noise goes away. FWIW, in 95-115*F ambient temps, I have to run 91 octane at 8* in order not to ping.

Good luck.
 
I vote to put the timing back as when my d/s went it banged on the highway regardless of load on the pedal. Now on the other hand you can always try to tie it to engine load (pinging) vs speed (d/s) by driving a gear lower up some hills or something like that...
 
update. on the way to work today the car was pretty much close to running perfect. no more hanging idle, and all around much easier to drive. i briefly got on it and no more popping pinging grinding whatever it is. car pulled really nice. heres the problem. when i got on the highway i had the ac on and got on it for a second and heard the same noise. so it only happens with the ac on. any suggestions or thoughts. thanks
 
TrueBlue95GT said:
Did you get an aftermarket shifter? because sometimes those things like to rattle on the set screws. Pinging sounds like an exhaust leak only more metallic.

no aftermarket shifter yet. i have been thinking about getting one soon but i figured i would wait for the gears and suspension and get them all put on at once. there in no way im going to try that myself. now that i think about it, what is involved in changing the shifter. do you install it from inside the car. if thats the case i might try it but if i have to go under the car and mess with the tranny i will wait. thanks
 
What are the motor's temps when this happens? THe condensor (for the A/C) dumps heat into the radiator. So having A/C on can move the operating temps up, which brings one closer to detonation (ping). That sounds likely.

I have never heard of a DS causing Bucking. Someone might be trying to equate secondary chain stretch on a motorcycle to bucking, but that is completely different.

It sounds like the typical idle surge type of thing.

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
What are the motor's temps when this happens? THe condensor (for the A/C) dumps heat into the radiator. So having A/C on can move the operating temps up, which brings one closer to detonation (ping). That sounds likely.

I have never heard of a DS causing Bucking. Someone might be trying to equate secondary chain stretch on a motorcycle to bucking, but that is completely different.

It sounds like the typical idle surge type of thing.

Good luck.

not sure on temps. i have the stock gauge. never goes past the O in NORMAL. i have a brand new compressor and acumulator because my ac recently took a dump. not sure if that adds to the equation. ac is fine now.
 
HISSIN50 said:
What are the motor's temps when this happens? THe condensor (for the A/C) dumps heat into the radiator. So having A/C on can move the operating temps up, which brings one closer to detonation (ping). That sounds likely.

I have never heard of a DS causing Bucking. Someone might be trying to equate secondary chain stretch on a motorcycle to bucking, but that is completely different.

It sounds like the typical idle surge type of thing.

Good luck.

the car drives fine when driving normal so i am going to give it a few day and see what happens when i get the 65 tb. i will also have another tps and iac to try out even though mine are new. after that if i will bring it by one of my mechanic to see what they think. i wanted to add that when i sit at a light my volts go all the way down to the N if i have the ac and stereo on. is that from the idle problems. before i ever took the stock throttle body off i had the pullies on and it was perfect so it cant be that. can it be a combo of idle problems and the pullies. thanks
 
legalize420gt95 said:
the car drives fine when driving normal so i am going to give it a few day and see what happens when i get the 65 tb. i will also have another tps and iac to try out even though mine are new. after that if i will bring it by one of my mechanic to see what they think. i wanted to add that when i sit at a light my volts go all the way down to the N if i have the ac and stereo on. is that from the idle problems. before i ever took the stock throttle body off i had the pullies on and it was perfect so it cant be that. can it be a combo of idle problems and the pullies. thanks
What is your idle at? Do you have U/D's (I forgot to look and am too lazy to go back from the reply box to look. :rlaugh: ).

Have you checked voltage at the battery and noted the voltage drop to the gauge? Some cars' gauges see as much as a one volt drop, so battery voltage is one volt higher than what the gauge indicates (so one just has to remember that).

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
What is your idle at? Do you have U/D's (I forgot to look and am too lazy to go back from the reply box to look. :rlaugh: ).

Have you checked voltage at the battery and noted the voltage drop to the gauge? Some cars' gauges see as much as a one volt drop, so battery voltage is one volt higher than what the gauge indicates (so one just has to remember that).

Good luck.

with the ac on the idle is barley above 6. without the ac more like 7. yes U/D. i have not checked the voltage. voltage is fine with ac off.
 
You have a decently low/stock idle, but with U/D's, that can lead to voltage issues. Lots of people just deal with it, overdrive the alt, etc. Measuring the voltage at the battery would be my next step though.

Good luck.