Pinion shaft lock bolt SNAPPED!

AdRock · Jan 30, 2006

When my bolt broke it did the same thing as yours. The threads that you see left are pretty much all the threads on the bolt. Have you tried sticking a magnet in there to see if the rest comes out? I know, obvious question, but I have to ask.

MAXX RS4 · Jan 30, 2006

AdRock said:
When my bolt broke it did the same thing as yours. The threads that you see left are pretty much all the threads on the bolt. Have you tried sticking a magnet in there to see if the rest comes out? I know, obvious question, but I have to ask.

Yes I have..

SLY GT · Jan 31, 2006

Put it back in and forget about it until you are ready to tear it apart. You are not likely to get it out with an ez out while it is still in the case. you will destroy it.

NX281GT · Jan 31, 2006

I seriously wouldn't put half a broken bolt back in I'd tend to go a little overboard sometimes, but I'd drop the whole rear-end to get it away from the car and access the job a lot easier. Center punch the bolt and drill you a pilot hole in it. Start your E-Z out and then back it out. Heat the piece of bolt up with a propane torch (why I'd remove the rear-end) and then get your E-Z out back in there. Tap on the E-Z out to keep a good bite. Good luck with that man.

SLY GT · Jan 31, 2006

NX281GT said:
I seriously wouldn't put half a broken bolt back in I'd tend to go a little overboard sometimes, but I'd drop the whole rear-end to get it away from the car and access the job a lot easier. Center punch the bolt and drill you a pilot hole in it. Start your E-Z out and then back it out. Heat the piece of bolt up with a propane torch (why I'd remove the rear-end) and then get your E-Z out back in there. Tap on the E-Z out to keep a good bite. Good luck with that man.

Normaly I would agree but this bolt is not holding two parts together, it is just acting as a stop pin to prevent the shaft from sliding out. We are talking about a major job here. You cannot get the diff out of the case w/o pulling the axles and you can't pull the axles w/o pulling the C clips, and you can't pull the C clips w/o getting the bolt out to release the carrier!!! Trying to do it with the carrier in the case is a high risk venture.

NX281GT · Jan 31, 2006

Thank you for explaining to me how to remove a carrier. This fellow stated he wanted to get the bolt out.

MAXX RS4 · Jan 31, 2006

Well, I'm not pulling my entire rearend just to get this little piece of bastard bolt out. So, if I manage to screw up the housing threads - I'll just tear the **** out of it to get the pin free and just replace the whole diff. The thing has 100k miles on it anyway - I don't think my car would mind a new one.

Mike97gt · Jan 31, 2006

that cross bolt is hardened steel. i doubt you will be able to ez out that one. i would drill it out and then you most likely will have to get a new carrier

BTW. thats why i heat it up when i remove it. they use locktite on that cross bolt and the best way is to heat up the carrier right on the area to the right of the cross pin. if you look at the design of the bolt you will see that is above where the threads are on the cross bolt.

jackchan · Jan 31, 2006

Something you might try is a left handed drill bit. You'll need to center punch the bolt to get the small bit to stick, but I've had great success with those. The bolts have all just backed right out. Good Luck!

Click to expand...

I did the exact same thing once.....I tried to center punch it and drill out the center of the bolt with a very small drill bit, then I think we used a left handed drill bit (dont laugh they actually do make one) and it just came out!
good luck
Jack

Mike97gt · Jan 31, 2006

jackchan said:
I did the exact same thing once.....I tried to center punch it and drill out the center of the bolt with a very small drill bit, then I think we used a left handed drill bit (dont laugh they actually do make one) and it just came out!
good luck
Jack

yeah i have a few sets of left hand drill bit and extractors. sometimes they work.

SLY GT · Feb 1, 2006

NX281GT said:
Thank you for explaining to me how to remove a carrier. This fellow stated he wanted to get the bolt out.

Yup.I am a moron I didn't realize that. You are right. He should listen to you and all will be well because you are an expert on this sort of thing. He will have no problem removing the broken bolt with the carrier in place,laying on his back, using a hand drill, with an angle chuck trying to use a center punch with a hand held hammer in a blind hole to remove a hardened bolt with red thread lock not screwing up the threads. Oh, and by the way,I was not explaining anything to you I was trying to offer some alternative advice to the poster. But now that you set us all straight, all he has to do is listen to you.

NX281GT · Feb 1, 2006

My opinion is my opinion. I never claimed to be an expert nor would I try to cause someone uneccesary work. Simply stated, He was looking for advice on getting the bolt out and I gave mine. I'm not interested in arguing with you about this so I won't entertain you with any further responses.

SLY GT · Feb 1, 2006

NX281GT said:
My opinion is my opinion. I never claimed to be an expert nor would I try to cause someone uneccesary work. Simply stated, He was looking for advice on getting the bolt out and I gave mine. I'm not interested in arguing with you about this so I won't entertain you with any further responses.

Yes, but at the same time you tried to school me for giving him my opinion. Your response is typical.You make a sarcastic post( " Thank you for explaining to me... blah blah blah) then get b*tch slapped for it and retreat to the " I won't dignify it with a response", bull *****. Any way... your aplogy is accepted.

PS: Don't flatter yourself, I don't find you entertaining in the least.

MAXX RS4 · Feb 1, 2006

Ladies, please.

By comparing the screw I removed to the new one from Ford, I have about .5-1 thread remaining in the casing. Now, the locktite (it's yellow, by the way ) is only on the first 4 or so threads nearest the head of the bolt. This should mean that the threads remaining in the casing are not held in with any locktite and when the first piece of the bolt is removed, there's no torque on the piece stuck inside.

If all fails, I'll replace the posi with one from the local mustang salvage yard for a measly $40. Not to bad I think.

Mike97gt · Feb 1, 2006

your going to need that new carrier so just go buy it now. that bolt did not break for no reason. it probally was cross threaded in there.

the only way i see that coming out is drilling it out of the pin. get some good high speed drill bits.

AdRock · Feb 2, 2006

svttech76 said:
your going to need that new carrier so just go buy it now. that bolt did not break for no reason. it probally was cross threaded in there.

the only way i see that coming out is drilling it out of the pin. get some good high speed drill bits.

Trust me when i say that those stupid bolts will break for no reason. I've pulled several out as well as seen other people pull them out. They'll snap when you try to loosen them. It's not some one in a million occourance.

Mike97gt · Feb 2, 2006

AdRock said:
Trust me when i say that those stupid bolts will break for no reason. I've pulled several out as well as seen other people pull them out. They'll snap when you try to loosen them. It's not some one in a million occourance.

i have never snaped one of them, and i have never seen anybody snap on in my shop. i have had that bolt out of so many 8.8's i cant even count them. everytime i rebuild a rear end i had it out. everytime i have done e brake shoes on explorers i have had it out. but i heat up the carrier to the right of the cross pin. right over where the threadlock is. comes out easy when you do that.

heat is your friend. and dont worry the rear end lube will not light up.

Randy's pony · Oct 30, 2007

You need a Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt Extractor Kit. Get one at Matco tools, or Fabbri Associates.com or etoolcart.

It saved my a** more than once!!

hotmustang331 · Oct 30, 2007

Old thread?

BobHyatt · Oct 30, 2007

damacman said:
Dude, that sucks! Even if you could get a left-handed drill bit to take a bite into it, that bolt isn't threaded the length of the shaft - the part that goes into the cross pin is thread-less. I would think an EZ-out may be your only choice. May be a job that will prove easier with the carrier sitting on your work bench . . .

Either way, good luck!

Err... with the shaft locked in, making it impossible to remove the c-clips, how is he going to remove the carrier and get it to his bench?

That is one tall order...

Pinion shaft lock bolt SNAPPED!

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