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Piston Ring Choice

  • Thread starter Thread starter JD1964
  • Start date Start date Oct 10, 2016

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
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Maryland
Oct 10, 2016
#1
  • Oct 10, 2016
  • #1
My block should be ready for pickup by the end of the week. It was measured and qualified for hone and re-ring at he stock 4.00" bore.

I'm about to order piston rings. Should I go stock cast type for $30 or a moly set for $75?

Also, I see ring thickness listed in standard and metric sizes. Either one works right? My pistons are the TRW forged that came stock in this engine.

Update on my bearing choice - I decided to go with King HP. Standard size.
 
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Moosee1955

Active Member
Sep 30, 2016
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Oct 10, 2016
#2
  • Oct 10, 2016
  • #2
I've always liked moly piston rings better in the builds I've done. They seem to hold up compression, and power longer. It's just like the difference of cast vs forged pistons. It only takes one over rev or missed gear to shatter a cast piston. Seen it happen, happened to my friends 350 chevy motor 3 months back. Be sure to set your gaps on piston rings correctly. And take time to get end gaps on each ring right. You'd be surprised the difference filing each ring does for a proper performing/ low oil burning motor. I'm sure if your building your own motor you already know these things, but if not I hope it helps. Moose.


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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
3,427
1,518
194
Maryland
Oct 10, 2016
#3
  • Oct 10, 2016
  • #3
So far I've been happy and encouraged by the communications with the machine shop guy. I have assembled a few engines in my days and my plans were to do the same with this one. However, this guy is very reasonable and easy to talk to. He already acquired the rod bearings for me because he needed them as part of the rod balancing. So, I'm pricing the mains and rings for myself to see the cost if I assemble. Then, I'm calling him tomorrow and asking how much he wants to acquire the same parts and assemble for me. If its not too much, (doubt it will be) I'll have him put it together.
 
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FoxtrotTangoWhiskey

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Oct 7, 2016
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#4
  • Oct 10, 2016
  • #4
John Dirks Jr said:
So far I've been happy and encouraged by the communications with the machine shop guy. I have assembled a few engines in my days and my plans were to do the same with this one. However, this guy is very reasonable and easy to talk to. He already acquired the rod bearings for me because he needed them as part of the rod balancing. So, I'm pricing the mains and rings for myself to see the cost if I assemble. Then, I'm calling him tomorrow and asking how much he wants to acquire the same parts and assemble for me. If its not too much, (doubt it will be) I'll have him put it together.
Click to expand...
I noticed that a lot of the rotating assemblies that I have been looking at have "file to fit" piston rings. It makes me nervous to even think about it lol...

I found the old ticket from my 306 rebild. It looked like the machine work was only $675... He kind of got me on the camshaft kit, but I ended up reusing it on a stock rebuild later. I dont know if this helps at all? It came with a full gasket set also.
 

Moosee1955

Active Member
Sep 30, 2016
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38
Oct 11, 2016
#5
  • Oct 11, 2016
  • #5
Your machinist is probably a top notch guy, a lot are. The lower end assembly is everything on your engine. The reason why machinists file to fit rings, is that's the proper way. Just slapping rings on pistons, then shoving them into the bores, is a crap shoot. Your best shot would be to get original Ford rings, if that's what you plan to do. End gaps probably will be closest from Ford. These days I've seen so many problems with built engines, that you don't want to leave anything to chance. One last thing, look at package, ask parts guy, get rings made in U.S. Good luck with your motor, let us know how it runs.


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