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Piston/rod advice on build

  • Thread starter Thread starter JasinC19
  • Start date Start date Nov 28, 2011

JasinC19

What hole is this!?!
Jun 7, 2011
312
2
19
Nov 28, 2011
#1
  • Nov 28, 2011
  • #1
Hey guys,

Now that I have the block stripped down, I'm looking at having it rebuilt at Magnum Machine in Chesapeake, VA.

After the TFS top end kit is installed, I suppose I'll end up with around 300 whp.

I need some advice on rods and pistons. I'm considering Probe SRS pistons. They seem pretty good for the money and are pretty light.

Also, I'd like to reuse the stock rods. Is there any benefit from installing aftermarket forged rods? There is a small chance of forced induction in the future.

Having ARP hardware installed on the stock rods and then having them balanced/shot peened/etc will cost me dollars. Eagle sells a set of 8 forged rods for under $300. I'm not sure how great they are, but it's just a pricepoint.
Details

Does anyone have any experience with Probe pistons? Or advice with the rod situation?

Thanks!
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,560
1,146
184
Georgia
Nov 29, 2011
#2
  • Nov 29, 2011
  • #2
The SRS pistons are great pistons, I use them and so do thousands of other people. Yes, it is more cost effective to use an aftermarket forged rod then to rebuild stock rods with ARP hardware. By the time you buy the bolts, have them installed and resize the rods, you can buy new ones. I've seen 4340 Scats going for a little over $200 before, Eagle makes good rods as well.

Here is something to consider... You are going to spend $450 on SRS pistons, $300 on new rods, thats $750 for a stock cranked 302/306. For only a couple of hundred more, maybe even only a hundred more, you can buy a stroker kit from several different big name companies. You will most likely get the pistons and rods you are looking for, and a little better crank, plus more cubes. I think Coast High Performance is still offering free balancing.

Good luck with it!
 

JasinC19

What hole is this!?!
Jun 7, 2011
312
2
19
Nov 29, 2011
#3
  • Nov 29, 2011
  • #3
Thanks for the reply.

I'm new to a lot of this, so going stroker feels "dangerous" to me lol. I'm mainly looking for a power increase with a focus on longevity and reliability.

Not to mention the top end kit i'm putting on comes with cam that probably won't work with the stroker.

At the moment I'd almost rather add a SC if 300hp isn't enough for my trip to work and back.

I'm mainly wondering what the difference is between the $250 set of eagle rods and the $4xx set.

Jason
 

Jason 302

10 Year Member
Aug 9, 2003
685
71
68
Newark, Ohio
Nov 30, 2011
#4
  • Nov 30, 2011
  • #4
Something to consider...everything stock, the block will usually give up before the rods. Just something to consider before you put some H-beam forged rods into a stock block.

If you can swing it, like RangerJoe said, look into a simple 331/347 kit. The Trick Flow top end should compliment it well. I promise it will run better than a 302/306
 

JasinC19

What hole is this!?!
Jun 7, 2011
312
2
19
Dec 1, 2011
#5
  • Dec 1, 2011
  • #5
You know just when I think I know exactly what I want... lol

Here is the situation: I have the block torn apart. I haven't bought really anything yet for the build except full exhaust (2.5"), Centerforce clutch kit with FRP stock style flywheel, 24# injectors with 255lph fuel pump & matching mass air replacement.

So I havent bought:
- any bottom end internals
- no h/c/i parts including cam & lifters

This is my first build and I want the most trouble free experience, but I don't want to do it all over again if I decide that the 302 build isn't quite enough down the road. (Thanks to your tempting words)

If I go 302/306 with forged pistons & rods (stock crank), then want to add boost later, would I be able to do so and leave the bottom end alone? Or would the CR be too high?

If I stroke it (331) I know it raises CR. But I am pretty sure at that point I wouldn't ever need the supercharger because I'd be at what I assume close to 400 whp n/a. Or something like that.

So I suppose on paper, the 331 stroker makes sense since I'm buying the parts anyways.

I've read a lot of conflicting information about the 331... I'm assuming that my builder will know which pistons to buy for the TFS heads so PTV clearance won't be an issue, but will the TFS stage 1 cam that comes with the top end kit work with the stroked motor? Or would I need something more custom?

Thanks for the info guys
 

Jason 302

10 Year Member
Aug 9, 2003
685
71
68
Newark, Ohio
Dec 1, 2011
#6
  • Dec 1, 2011
  • #6
JasinC19 said:
You know just when I think I know exactly what I want... lol

Here is the situation: I have the block torn apart. I haven't bought really anything yet for the build except full exhaust (2.5"), Centerforce clutch kit with FRP stock style flywheel, 24# injectors with 255lph fuel pump & matching mass air replacement.

So I havent bought:
- any bottom end internals
- no h/c/i parts including cam & lifters

This is my first build and I want the most trouble free experience, but I don't want to do it all over again if I decide that the 302 build isn't quite enough down the road. (Thanks to your tempting words)

If I go 302/306 with forged pistons & rods (stock crank), then want to add boost later, would I be able to do so and leave the bottom end alone? Or would the CR be too high?

If I stroke it (331) I know it raises CR. But I am pretty sure at that point I wouldn't ever need the supercharger because I'd be at what I assume close to 400 whp n/a. Or something like that.

So I suppose on paper, the 331 stroker makes sense since I'm buying the parts anyways.

I've read a lot of conflicting information about the 331... I'm assuming that my builder will know which pistons to buy for the TFS heads so PTV clearance won't be an issue, but will the TFS stage 1 cam that comes with the top end kit work with the stroked motor? Or would I need something more custom?

Thanks for the info guys
Click to expand...

Some of the stroker kits, like from Coast High Performance, has an option to get pistons for the Trick Flow heads. The stage 1 cam would work, but are there better options? Yes.

If you're planning on boost, I would keep the C/R ratio below 9.5:1 max

Once you start talking 400/450+ rwhp horsepower you're really pushing the limits of the stock block.

You'll get different responses when talking 331 or 347. The 331 gives you a better rod ratio, the 347 gives you more cubes is how I look at it.
 
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