Planning on full 351W EFI Swap, but don't even know where to start...

[Justin_Bradley]

Are there specific year blocks I should look for that will work best for EFI. Also, what about casting integrity (I've read in many books the 351W castings weren't the best during a certain time period). What style valvetrain should I use (roller, flat; hydraulic, roller)? Plan to throw some SERIOUS power at the S.O.B., so I need the best information possible. Was looking at the Sportsman block, but wasn't sure if it would accept a roller cam.

BTW- Is there a link someone could post with all the differences of hydraulic vs. solid vs. flat vs. roller? Still a little ignorant on the matter.

 

[JNeidlinger]

Article from an issue of National Dragster:

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa4078/is_200303/ai_n9217044

good info

 

[Stanger007]

Several of the guys around here have done the swap!

I've got a little bit of information on the wiki - as you find information on the swap, feel free to add to it.

http://www.mustang-tech.org/wiki/Category:94-95_Mustangs_Engine_Swaps

 

[Pokageek]

Start with $$ and go from there. The pre-74 blocks are supossed to be the strongest. post-74 blocks are still alot better casting than the 5.0 block...and there's guys running 500rwhp + on 5.0's. Depends on what serious HP means to you.

 

[final5-0]

You can find a lot of things said about the Windsor

Of course ... Your actions will be influenced around your application

The hardcore site has good reliable info on the topic

I have focused a good bit of my time on the subject of lifters

Of course ... it all boils down to the shorter length bore hole
block of the old school flat tappet or the newer block like the
Lightning motor.

You got so many more ft blocks at your disposal
but
I kinda think I would beat the bushes for a newer style block
so
I could just run regular late style roller lifters.

Good Luck with all your plans

Grady

 

[parchisi]

You don't HAVE to go with a hydraulic roller block. I am running a 1990 block and using those retrofit hydraulic roller lifters, but they are pricey. Yes, the pre '74 blocks are stronger, but post 74 351 blocks are still plenty strong for some 'serious horsepower'. I'm putting 530 down at the wheels right now and nothing's blown up yet. Going to put on a smaller pulley soon, so we'll see how that goes. I was 600 RWHP or bust!

ANd pokageek is correct, to do it right, it takes some serious money. Keep looking around, the information is out there.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

1969 and 70 are the strongest.

 

[Justin_Bradley]

You don't HAVE to go with a hydraulic roller block. I am running a 1990 block and using those retrofit hydraulic roller lifters, but they are pricey. Yes, the pre '74 blocks are stronger, but post 74 351 blocks are still plenty strong for some 'serious horsepower'. I'm putting 530 down at the wheels right now and nothing's blown up yet. Going to put on a smaller pulley soon, so we'll see how that goes. I was 600 RWHP or bust!

ANd pokageek is correct, to do it right, it takes some serious money. Keep looking around, the information is out there.

After readiing one of the links posted above, I think that the hydraulic roller setup is what I want to go with. Streetability is very important to me, and it seems like this setup is the most reliable.That is what was put into 302s when they went "High Output", right?

For me, serious power is this:
408c.i. w/ twin turbos and a heavy amount of spray. Will run the car at events ranging from street night at the local drag strip to auto-cross and anything else I can find. Want to be able to cruise in the car on weekends, and even be able to take it on vacation for cruising and what not, such as Mustang Week in Myrtle Beach, SC.

 

[final5-0]

Stroked to 408
Twin Turbos
High hp shot of Juice

You are talking M E G A bucks

That is W A Y more than the typical member here deals with :Word:

If you are really serious about that kind of combo, you may wanna
start to hang with the power adder folk over on their forum

Grady

 

[parchisi]

and forget this pre-74 block crap. You'll need a Dart!

 

[BlackVert]

here's some general infor about the swap

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=917978

you'll need a dart or man of war block for that kind of power.

hydraulic rollers take the least adjustment, best for street car
solid rollers are best for racing but take more maintenance
i don't know why anyone would go with flat tappet anymore, they are definately dated
the hydraulic rollers are taller than the solid ones. most current aftermarket blocks accept HR i bet

 

[chuck943]

Blackvert and Parchisi have you guys had any luck getting those monsters to hook up? I remember when I built a 410 stoker for my sons a couple years back street tires and drag radials just wouldn't do the trick.

 

[Pokageek]

Blackvert and Parchisi have you guys had any luck getting those monsters to hook up? I remember when I built a 410 stoker for my sons a couple years back street tires and drag radials just wouldn't do the trick.

That's why I am going 3.27's. As to the block..haha he is going to need a man-o-armageddon block.

 

[BlackVert]

i am having tranny problems right now, so i haven't had much chance yet.

and the motor doesn't have even 500 miles on it yet.

but the few times i have stepped on it (while trying to break the tires loose), it did spin the tires pretty easily. one time it made a big cloud of smoke in the parking lot.

i have yet to go WOT with it yet.

i am having 3.27s installed tomorrow, and will be getting deep dish fr500 17x10.5 rims with 315/35 tires to help with traction.

 

[chuck943]

I remember the first time he took it to the track he ran an 8.8, 97 mph, with a 2.86 60 ft time with drag radials and about 12 lbs of air. Quarters where coated with rubber. Had to pedal it quite abit to. Thing was a torque monster.

 

[parchisi]

Stepping on it, I don't get any traction in 1st or 2nd gear. But that is with some crappy Sumitomo 315's.

 

[Don 95Vert]

My turbo 357 Gen 1 Lightning just made 502/635 and it's fine. It has stock roller block, stock crank, forged pistons and H beam rods.

Our turbo '95 Mustang just made 640 with boost problems - fixed it should be close or over 700. No issues with block failure - many people regularly go over 700 to the tires with them. These are all 94-96 roller blocks.

If you are doing a turbo, plan it carefully, I do not suggest going to big cubes - maybe 351-357 - mainly because of the huge exhaust volume they make. It creates pressure ratio problems. Although with twins it shouldn't be as bad as a big single, but you still need to plan carefully. You will need a big oil pan and a high volume pump or you'll have oil pressure problems at the top end of the track.
Don

 

[1slow95]

Blackvert and Parchisi have you guys had any luck getting those monsters to hook up? I remember when I built a 410 stoker for my sons a couple years back street tires and drag radials just wouldn't do the trick.

No traction problems for me . I ran it at the track one time and ran a 12.20 at 120(1/8 was 8.0-8.1 at 93-94mph) with a 2.1 60' time. That's on 315/35 street tires, but the track was prepped very well. Now with 315/35 M/T drag radials I can go WOT on the street with no problems.

 

[chuck943]

yeah but thats still a little high on the 60 ft times. If I remember right on my sons with the 302 in it he was hitting 1.5 60 ft times with drag radials. You could probably do 7.5 pass easy with that thing.

Man that is one sweeeet looking ride!!!

 

[1slow95]

yeah but thats still a little high on the 60 ft times. If I remember right on my sons with the 302 in it he was hitting 1.5 60 ft times with drag radials. You could probably do 7.5 pass easy with that thing.

Man that is one sweeeet looking ride!!!

Thanks!
That was my second run ever with the new engine, and I haven't been back to the track yet. With some more practice I could have got in the 2.0 or 1.9 range, but I only got two runs in. I'm shooting for mid to low 11's when I go back sometime later this summer.