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"Please allow me to introduce myself..."

  • Thread starter Thread starter MrAspen
  • Start date Start date Mar 14, 2009
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
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Mar 14, 2009
#1
  • Mar 14, 2009
  • #1
Gentlemen (and ladies if present),

I just bought my son a 1992 Ford Bronco. It was running on 7. I was hoping it was a bad injector but I was wrong. (I'm hoping) It's a blown head gasket.
The dude said he had just put the motor in it. The old motor was "smoking real bad". I acquired the old engine in the transaction. I'm going to pick the old motor up today and we're going to rip the heads off the motor in the truck.
The guy said the motor in the truck was out of a 1992 Lincoln Town Car. Well guess what, Lincoln (according to my current info) didn't put a 302W in a '92 town car so step 1 is to figure out what motor is in the truck (I'm hoping it was out of a '92 Mark 7). Step 2 is to figure out A: if the heads off the old motor will fit the motor in the truck and B: which heads will be more efficient. Step 3 will be to determine how far I should go on rebuilding this engine.

My situation:

My son is 17. He gets his license in April. He graduated high school last week and is 1/2 way through his first semester in college. I'm working a thousand miles from home (and my tools) and he's here with me. I'll probably finish this project here @ the end of the year but because he graduated from the local high school he gets a 2 year scholarship to the local community college. Because that saves me 100k in tuition I may leave him here when I go home.

My goal is to build an efficient reliable motor. My knowledge of Fords is limited!
There doesn't appear to be any "Ford men" in Northeast TX. (There's plenty where I come from!!) I'd appreciate any advice you can give me!
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
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0
Mar 15, 2009
#2
  • Mar 15, 2009
  • #2
Additional info

k,

I removed 1 of the heads from the engine in the truck. I found "E6SE" under the #3 exhaust port and 6E0 between the #5 AND #7 valve spring assemblies under the valve cover.
Saw other strings in this forum. 'Seems some people REALLY don't like E6SE heads. Some think they're salvageable. Somebody said the E6SE heads came out a '86 'Stang others say they were used in trucks/crown vic 'til '91 so I guess this means this is not a "roller motor" I can also say it basically has flat top piston heads with a slight circular indention on @ 2/3rds in the center. Your thoughts?
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
0
0
Mar 15, 2009
#3
  • Mar 15, 2009
  • #3
DEEPER!

One more thing, the guy I bought the truck from has a 5.8 with intake/fuel injection and all. How difficult would it be to upgrade to that setup?
 

300

New Member
Feb 25, 2009
38
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0
New York
Mar 17, 2009
#4
  • Mar 17, 2009
  • #4
Start with the VIN number in the engine.
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
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0
Mar 18, 2009
#5
  • Mar 18, 2009
  • #5
"My rhyme gets rugher as my rhyme goes on"

300, will check the VIN once I get the layers of grease off it!

Both engines are roller cam motors.


I pulled the heads off the other motor. Finally some good news. They're A7Ts. 'Look new! Boy, y'all were right, there's no clearance on the valves. 'Hope the flat top pistons don't tap the valves!

Found a set of graphite head gaskets. Should I use graphite head gaskets?

Found some low milage 4LE-A4A injectors. Should I use them? Will these fit my harness? Will they work? Will I have to change anything else?
 

300

New Member
Feb 25, 2009
38
0
0
New York
Mar 18, 2009
#6
  • Mar 18, 2009
  • #6
For help with the VIN number try: Free VIN Decoder - Vehicle Identification Number Report
(make sure you use caps for letters)

Good Luck
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
0
0
Mar 19, 2009
#7
  • Mar 19, 2009
  • #7
ROLLING, ROLLING, ROLLING!

E7Ts are being worked, headers ordered, gaskets in hand!

Thinking 'bout putting a gear drive on the cam. Dudes I talk to say it isn't necessary but I'm concerned about the valve clearance. (One little slip and I'm at square 0!)

The engine in the truck has a double sump oil pan. Any advantage to this? Would there be any drawback to going to a single sump?

300, I guess you're the only person reading this, thanks for your input!
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
0
0
Mar 20, 2009
#8
  • Mar 20, 2009
  • #8
"Crimson and clover, over and over...!"

'Got a cracked E7T. It's cracked at a head bold. Can I weld it?
 

300

New Member
Feb 25, 2009
38
0
0
New York
Mar 20, 2009
#9
  • Mar 20, 2009
  • #9
I don't know? Can you?

Read this: http://forums.stangnet.com/502090-86-heads-e6se.html

If you really dont want the e6se heads, ebay has rebuilt e7te heads for $175-$385.
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
0
0
Mar 20, 2009
#10
  • Mar 20, 2009
  • #10
Humor, the quality thar appeals to the absurdly incongruous!

Let me clarify the question, can it be welded?
And, "NO!" I can't weld it.
 
M

MrAspen

New Member
Mar 14, 2009
9
0
0
Mar 20, 2009
#11
  • Mar 20, 2009
  • #11
300: 'read that string. That's kinda where I got the idea nobody likes the E6s. I found sets of E7s locally, today (1 on a motor, 1 in the bed of a truck and 1 on a shelf, dozens in a bone-yard). Found a set of E5s and a set of E8s too. I've been searching eBay and cl all week. $150.00 is the magic # on Ford parts. $150.00 for heads, $150.00 for valve job, etc.
Ultimately, jr. has to pay for half the total cost of the truck. I think we've decided to go back to the E6s. I'm going to see if the guy can weld the crack. If not, E6s it is!
 
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