PLEASE HELP ME! HUGE PROBLEMS

astronut1885

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Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

Jul 10, 2004

#1

• Jul 10, 2004

• #1

hey guys. I went to install my new a/c delete and valve covers today. The A/C delete went well, then everything went straight to hell. I lost a valve cover bolt, so I need to replace that but can't find one. Then it got worse. I was installing the driver's side vc and I noticed that the lower intake was cracked. The corner thread hole, where the upper intake bolted in, was cracked almost in half right down the threads. I am currently trying to JB weld it together, but the piece that came off is twisted or something and won't sit flush. Is it safe to run the car with 5 bolts holding the upper on, and the 6th barely torqued down? I don't think it's reparable by a welder, and I can't afford a new intake setup right now. What are my options? Also, where can I get a new valve cover bolt?

 

jrichker

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#2

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Forget about the JB weld, it won't help with what you are doing. Besides that, a nice clean surface is easier to weld.

According to the link in your sig, you have an Explorer intake manifold. Is that correct?

I suspect that you will get to pull the lower off, have it welded and then taken to a machine shop to get it re-threaded, & resurfaced. Explorer lowers are going for $75=$125 where I live, so get some estimates on the entire job before you start. That way you don't spent more money on repairs than the cost of a replacement lower manifold.

 

astronut1885

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#3

• Jul 10, 2004

• #3

I called Ford, the repair shop guy said I could be OK with 5 bolts holding the upper on, but I could get a vacuum leak. I'm going to go to AutoZone, they said they have generic valve cover bolts there, so I'm hoping I can match one up with mine and be set there. The JB weld on the lower isn't set yet, but I don't think it's going to matter much, the piece isn't setting where it should be. Dammit...Looks like I'm saving for a new intake.

 

astronut1885

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#4

• Jul 10, 2004

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Yeah, I really don't want to put more money into this intake, because If that's the case I'd just as soon buy a better one like a Trick Flow. It is an Explorer, and I guess I can call some boneyards Monday and see if I can't find another lower. Maybe I can even port it before I install it... For now, I need to get running with what I have. Jrichker, will I be ok installing the intake with 5 out of 6 bolts, leaving the rear driver's side one out?

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Jul 10, 2004

#5

• Jul 10, 2004

• #5

I'd be less concerned about a vacuum leak and more concerned about a coolant leak. ESPECIALLY if you've removed it already. The corners of the intake are where the coolant passages are. I suppose you have nothing to lose trying to seal it with 5; but watch it carefully. A slow leak of coolant into the lifter valley wouldn't show up for a while, and it only takes a bit of coolant in the oil to cause big problems with bearings. Having it welded is the way to go. And being REAL careful on the reinstall. Only takes 16-18 ft-lbs. on the lower (use the proper pattern) and 10 ft-lbs. on the upper. People overtorque and break them regularly. It's not a strong casting.

 

astronut1885

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#6

• Jul 10, 2004

• #6

It's not going to leak coolant, because there's no coolant where it's broken. It's not the lower to head bolt hole, it's where the bolt from the upper intake goes into the lower to secure the upper on. It's the corner of the hole where the thread is. It's JB-ing back together now. I got the valve cover situation dealt with, I got some of those wing nut things that they sell, and I'm surprised to say they look cool. I only used one on each lower corner, but when money allows, I'll put them in all around. It's funny Mike, because a month or so back, you told me that I was going to break my lower, and sure enough I had. We were talking about torquing down the upper, and I said I just did it until I heard the squeek. My laziness has caught up with me

 

astronut1885

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#7

• Jul 10, 2004

• #7

Here's a picture of how it broke. The one on the left highlights the path of the crack that broke the piece off, and the one on the right just circles the area in question.

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Jul 10, 2004

#8

• Jul 10, 2004

• #8

Sorry I misunderstood - when you said 5 of the 6 I thought you meant 5 of the 6 down one side of the lower. You're absolutely right - no coolant issues.

Try bolting it up and see what happens I suppose - nothing to lose. Might want to put a bit of rtv around that portion of the gasket (the right rear corner and the back two runner openings). I remember the post now - when you said you tighten it til it squeaks I was thinking - I wonder what he'll find when he takes it back apart. Use a torque wrench on the other 5, don't go beyond 10 ft-lbs., and start your pattern in the back - work your way to the front criss-cross; take it up real slowly . See what happens. Worse comes to worse a machine shop can simply weld that up solid, machine it flat, and re-drill-tap the hole and insert a helicoil in it. Anything's repairable. Sorry you had the problem - remember, it's just like racing - go slow to go fast. Use the torque wrench -- it'll keep you out of trouble.

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Jul 10, 2004

#9

• Jul 10, 2004

• #9

Hard to tell from the pic (lack of focus) - did it just break off a small corner yet still leave unmolested threads further down in the hole? If so, you might be able to get a slightly longer bolt to reach the good threads further down, and use washers to keep the bolt from bottoming out. In any event, be sure to let that jbweld set up til tomorrow before you try anything - if it's gonna have any chance at all of holding. Also, try to start the bolt before you attempt to put the manifold on. If the threads are slightly misaligned on your glue job, you could really mess it up by trying to tighten the bolt. Lastly, while you're screwing around with it you might want to tape up those runner openings. If a broken piece of manifold finds it's way into the runner, a magnet won't work, and you might end up having to pull the lower anyhow just to get it out. My luck, a small piece would fall into a runner with a valve open just enough to let it get all the way into the chamber - and then the heads would have to come off.

 

astronut1885

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#10

• Jul 10, 2004

• #10

I had cardboard taped over the runners, I took it off for the pic. I just put it back together, and surprisingly the broken hole took the bolt and held it. I have everything back together, and I am going to go for a test run.I think what happened is that I had bought some bolts to use as manifold bolts because my spacer came with bolts for a true GT40, 4 short 2 long. I had to cut the thread down on the bolts I bought, and I think it cross threaded into the hole and broke it, because the threads inside the hole were FUBAR. I let the JB set for 8 hours, which is 2 extra. It felt solid going in, and I put a tad extra on the other bolts to take the slack. I'm gonna go let it run, check the valve covers for any leaks, and watch the RPMs to see if there's a vac leak.

 

astronut1885

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#11

• Jul 10, 2004

• #11

Well, it ran good, except for minor idle issues I get everytime I reset the computer. One thing did come up though: The power steering pump was making a lot of noise, so when I pulled back in, I checked the level and it was low. I topped it off, and checked the lines to make sure that I didn't damage one when I moved it up while doing the A/C delete, or that I didn't crack the cooler line when I pulled the A/C condenser. Nothing appeared amiss, no fluid leaking anywhere, so I started her back up, and it made almost no noise, just the usual slight groan it used to. I accounted the fluid issue to the fact that the angle of the pump changed, so the pickup couldn't get the fluid as easily. The neck used to sit low, now it sits high in relation to the center, and the line to the steering rack is parallel to the neck. Now that I added a little fluid, it seems to be fine.

 

shttygtstang

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Jun 2, 2004

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Jul 10, 2004

#12

• Jul 10, 2004

• #12

dont some people get there intakes portted out and have the top and bottom welded to each other do that i think that will be your best fix

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Jul 11, 2004

#13

• Jul 11, 2004

• #13

Glad it's running ok for you.

On porting - sometimes people will have an upper intake cut open for access to do the porting - and then they weld it back together. But I've never heard of the top being welded to the bottom. It would make it near impossible to access the lower bolts to install it.

 

astronut1885

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Jul 11, 2004

#14

• Jul 11, 2004

• #14

Yeah, it ran fine today. I didn't plan on keeping this intake long term, so as long as it holds up for maybe two years, I'll be happy. Hopefully I won't have to pull it for a long time.