Please Help - which h. balancer and flywheel...

[AnthonyR23]

So I purchased a 347 stroker kit.. so as soon as that arrives I am dropping it off at my shop.. they have verified that the block is good... so they are just waiting for the kit now.. because they want it on hand before they start the machining.. anyways... before they actually install the kit.. they are going to balance it.. but I told them that I am getting a new harmonic balancer and flywheel... so I do have a little time because they have to do the prep work on the block, boring, etc. But could you guys maybe help me with my choice of balancer and flywheel... looking at the billet steel flywheel and aluminum.. If I intend on using my stock clutch does that make a difference with the flywheel, I'm sure it does, what is stock tooth.. 157? Kinda need help 50oz or an aluminum 15lb 157 tooth flywheel. Both for manual transmissions. I plan on rebuilding my t5 for now.. Any help with this choice for the 347 would be awesome, and for the harmonic balancer.. there is 50oz and 28oz.. I know stock is 50oz, is there a benefit of one over the other... for this kit... what should I worry about.. don't want to order the wrong thing. I know its 4 bolt.. looking at fluidampr.. stock replacements are about 70 bucks, the others are about 380... any advice would be awesome... should I not use my stock flywheel and balancer... Thanks guys!!!

 

[5.0ina66]

So I purchased a 347 stroker kit.. so as soon as that arrives I am dropping it off at my shop.. they have verified that the block is good... so they are just waiting for the kit now.. because they want it on hand before they start the machining.. anyways... before they actually install the kit.. they are going to balance it.. but I told them that I am getting a new harmonic balancer and flywheel... so I do have a little time because they have to do the prep work on the block, boring, etc. But could you guys maybe help me with my choice of balancer and flywheel... looking at the billet steel flywheel and aluminum.. If I intend on using my stock clutch does that make a difference with the flywheel, I'm sure it does, what is stock tooth.. 157? Kinda need help 50oz or an aluminum 15lb 157 tooth flywheel. Both for manual transmissions. I plan on rebuilding my t5 for now.. Any help with this choice for the 347 would be awesome, and for the harmonic balancer.. there is 50oz and 28oz.. I know stock is 50oz, is there a benefit of one over the other... for this kit... what should I worry about.. don't want to order the wrong thing. I know its 4 bolt.. looking at fluidampr.. stock replacements are about 70 bucks, the others are about 380... any advice would be awesome... should I not use my stock flywheel and balancer... Thanks guys!!!

The stock flywheel is 157-tooth. Stock 5.0L imbalance is 50oz but most stroker kits are easier to balance to 28oz, which is why most people go 28oz, because mallory metal is something like $200 an ounce. If you buy a 50oz kit and it needs lots of work to balance, I've seen people get something that's hard to balance and spend $700+ on heavy metal and balance work.

I know what I'd do

 

[1991vert]

what crank did you get?

i had my "0" balanced. it's all internally balanced and uses a zero balance harmonic balancer and a zero balanace flywheel

 

[AnthonyR23]

So I wrote this when I was sure what kit I was going to get, I talked to I guy named Ken at ADPerformance who was really nice, he recommended the scat crank and rods, but said to go with the probe pistons for the twisted wedge heads. So when I wrote this I was pretty positive this is what I would be ordering (monday), by shop is ready to start on the block, but just need this kit in. What has changed is I talked to a guy Brian that everyone has been telling me to talk too.. and to be honest I think he is a real piece of work. The honest truth is that I am pretty handy when it comes to fixing and doing things myself.. but the fact is I am not an engine builder and do need some help and advice on this build , and after speaking to him I am confused as ever. This Ken guy said they build the kits to order.. but after talking to Brian who just rambled on like I was this pro builder who would understand his lingo... I just simply mentioned what Ken had recommended.. Pretty much what I got was that the 5.325 rod was pretty much the same as the 5.315 rod and that scat is better quality. But he said I couldn't go with scat rods with the probe pistons for twisted wedge. I got off the phone with him because he was just an arrogant jerk, and I think I am going elsewhere with my business after talking to that brian guy, which is too bad for them because I will also be buying cylinder heads, flywheel, and balancer, and likely other parts... but will never give them a cent. My engine builder said he would call for me if I was confused about anything. You know this really shouldn't be such a chore. I just want to get a quality kit... I like the kit below... and may just go with it.. but don't know if it will work with the heads I'm looking at. Any flywheel or balancer advice would still be great, and if someone could let me know what heads this would work with that would be great.. apparently this is good because of a 0 deck height or something.... which may require less work.. but I couldn't get anywhere with the head choice with this kit... I'm sitting here ready to order.. I was going to order it on Friday so that it would hopefully be here next week. If any of you out there are kinda new to engine building def. go elsewhere, that is my advice!!!

-Scat Series 9000 Crankshaft, 3.40" Stroke
-Scat 4340 5.325 I-beam Connecting Rods, w/ ARP hardware
-KB Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged 2618, Inline valve relief, Floating pin w/ spirlox, wrist pins
-Clevite Rod and Main Bearings
-File Fit Moly Ring

 

[347HO]

PM'd you bud.
I feel your pain!

Also, plan on balancing to 28oz. As above it's extremely expensive to zero an assembly. Where I'm located, it's 80.00 a plug. You can expect to have about 10 plugs machined in.

My choice of flywheel are the aluminum Fidanza. They weight 11.5 lbs before imbalance.
There are so many preferences on dampers... the better known brands are better quality and more expensive. I thinks that has value in it though.

 

[AnthonyR23]

I am looking at the 28oz harmonic balancer's, the 28oz say they are 4 bolt for 1970-1981 302/5.0L, & 1970-1997 351W/5.8L. I honestly find this stuff so frustrating, so it has seemed from the start that everyone recommends the 28oz balancer... will this work with my underdrive crank pulley I already have... I have a electric mark 8 fan.. so doesn't have the clutch fan... will this balancer work with the pulley and stroker kit. Just confused because they say 1970-1981 for the 28oz balancers... and I think my old balancer was 4 bolt... I think it will work.... Just don't want to spend almost 400 dollars on a balancer that won't work... Please help guys!! I know I am being a pain.. but I just want to get my machine shop the parts.. I think I am just going to go with the probe flat top kit that will work with those tfs heads that I have been looking at... I think the scat kit just confuses things.. unless someone can verify that those pistons would work with the scat pistons.. Thanks!

 

[AnthonyR23]

Thanks 347HO I just bought the aluminum Fidanza 157tooth flywheel!!!! 1 down!

 

[347HO]

Thanks 347HO I just bought the aluminum Fidanza 157tooth flywheel!!!! 1 down!

Sweet!
I really like mine, and the machinist said they are pretty accurate as is before balancing.
I have both an ATI and a Pro Products damper at 28oz. Both are lightweight and both will fit my Probe 347 crank. I actually believe it is a Scat crank though.
If you are in question of it's application, you should call the manufacturer or your supplier.

 

[AnthonyR23]

I really just want to get this stuff to the shop.. so he can finish it up... I am having him build what I'm not as comfortable doing.. balance and install bottom end with flywheel and balancer, I also want to get a custom cam made and want to get the heads.. I am going to do the intakes, fuel rails, injectors, and everything else.. but want the big stuff finished then I can take my time with the rest...

 

[AnthonyR23]

Can I use my stock rods and lifters?

 

[AnthonyR23]

pushrods.

 

[5.0ina66]

pushrods.

Maybe. Sounds like you're dropping some serious $$ into this thing, so I wouldn't eff around; your builder might charge an extra $10 to toss a pushrod checker in there and find the right length for you. You can use the stock lifters too.

If you're interested in a custom cam, I'd call up Ed at Flowtech Induction and buy a heads/cam package from him with a set of his tweaked AFR's..either way this thing sounds like its gonna make crazy power

 

[347HO]

Can I use my stock rods and lifters?

pushrods.

I assume you're installing new cylinder heads or different cylinder heads.
If this is the case, you "should" check for pushrod length.
IMO... don't use OE lifters with aftermarket performance parts.

You'll find the need to use better valve springs as you get more aggressive with the camshaft profile. In this application you'll overcome the performance of the stock lifters with the increased spring tension.
It is all too possible to ruin a SADI camshaft core with stout valve springs also.
You should define your goals, and research the different parts you need to keep everything matched and within their performance tolerances.

 

[vikingpower]

So I wrote this when I was sure what kit I was going to get, I talked to I guy named Ken at ADPerformance who was really nice, he recommended the scat crank and rods, but said to go with the probe pistons for the twisted wedge heads. So when I wrote this I was pretty positive this is what I would be ordering (monday), by shop is ready to start on the block, but just need this kit in. What has changed is I talked to a guy Brian that everyone has been telling me to talk too.. and to be honest I think he is a real piece of work. The honest truth is that I am pretty handy when it comes to fixing and doing things myself.. but the fact is I am not an engine builder and do need some help and advice on this build , and after speaking to him I am confused as ever. This Ken guy said they build the kits to order.. but after talking to Brian who just rambled on like I was this pro builder who would understand his lingo... I just simply mentioned what Ken had recommended.. Pretty much what I got was that the 5.325 rod was pretty much the same as the 5.315 rod and that scat is better quality. But he said I couldn't go with scat rods with the probe pistons for twisted wedge. I got off the phone with him because he was just an arrogant jerk, and I think I am going elsewhere with my business after talking to that brian guy, which is too bad for them because I will also be buying cylinder heads, flywheel, and balancer, and likely other parts... but will never give them a cent. My engine builder said he would call for me if I was confused about anything. You know this really shouldn't be such a chore. I just want to get a quality kit... I like the kit below... and may just go with it.. but don't know if it will work with the heads I'm looking at. Any flywheel or balancer advice would still be great, and if someone could let me know what heads this would work with that would be great.. apparently this is good because of a 0 deck height or something.... which may require less work.. but I couldn't get anywhere with the head choice with this kit... I'm sitting here ready to order.. I was going to order it on Friday so that it would hopefully be here next week. If any of you out there are kinda new to engine building def. go elsewhere, that is my advice!!!

-Scat Series 9000 Crankshaft, 3.40" Stroke
-Scat 4340 5.325 I-beam Connecting Rods, w/ ARP hardware
-KB Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged 2618, Inline valve relief, Floating pin w/ spirlox, wrist pins
-Clevite Rod and Main Bearings
-File Fit Moly Ring

I had a similar experience with a salesman at DSS, he was quoting me a lot more than their advertised prices and tried to convince me to get something else than what I wanted. It was the first and last time I tried to do business with them.
So I called CHP and talked to guy named Manuel, he quoted me exactly what they had advertised and took the time to run through a bunch of options.
I'm also having my kit internally balanced, their machinist said it was going to take 6 slugs (in a 3" crank).

 

[AnthonyR23]

I will replace both the pushrods and lifters then... Maybe I'll let my engine builder order them for me... building engines is his job, so he will know best.. I am really excited about this!! Still living at home, so if I am ever going to be able to do a project like this... it's now! I'm working full time, so it's a good time... finishing up my school online... kinda wouldn't mind having this car by mid summer.. but that could be pushing it... we'll see though!!