Please help with mid-pipe removal

soctty7676 · Feb 16, 2006

Hey all, I just got my MAC o/r h-pipe in. I got under the car, removed the O2 sensor and tried like heck to get the mid-pipe to manifold bolts out on the passenger side. They were taken out around 4 months ago for a new clutch (by shop), so I was expecting them to be half-way easy.....ha ha ha! These f'n things won't budge. I tried letting pb blaster set for 1 hour, tried impact (air tank is only 125psi max), and tried breaker bar. My problem with the breaker bar is that I can't hold on to the stupid thing when trying to loosen it because of the swivel letting the whole end flop around.

I even tried the easy side (driver's side) and it won't budge.

Maybe I just need to work out more, but when I apply as much pressure as I can, everything appears to be twisting and it feels like something is getting ready to snap!

Oh, and I have tried using a propane torch on the nut and heating till it's glowing red. Still no luck, but I think I toasted the pass. side gasket.

Any other suggestions? Or anyone in Naples, FL want to help out? I will have beer on hand!

USMstang · Feb 16, 2006

More PB, more patience, and less heavy artillery. Many have experienced the same crap.

Mike97gt · Feb 16, 2006

i use the torch to heat the nuts up then you can take them off with a 3/8's ratchet.

you can but a MAPP gas torch kit with the flexible hoses that will do the trick. just don't keep tugging on them you will break a stud

TrueCustoms · Feb 16, 2006

I use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a snap-on swivel socket and a few extensions when i do the swaps. If they hardly move, or just dont budge, just pb blaster, heat, turn, pb blaster, heat, turn, heat, turn, pb blaster, turn, heat, pb blaster turn, and then beer

Mike97gt · Feb 16, 2006

TrueCustoms said:
I use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a snap-on swivel socket and a few extensions when i do the swaps. If they hardly move, or just dont budge, just pb blaster, heat, turn, pb blaster, heat, turn, heat, turn, pb blaster, turn, heat, pb blaster turn, and then beer

pretty much how i do it, but i am usually at work so no beer

HoustonGT · Feb 16, 2006

I don't get it. You have beer and its still not budging. Something must be wrong

98bluevert · Feb 16, 2006

OK i know this doesn't sound like the right thing to do but, get your extensions, your ratchet, an impact swival to match, then get a really long pipe(my case a drive shaft cut in two). u should have no problem then as long as u can lift the car up far enough.

BennyBlown2v · Feb 16, 2006

Mine were a bitch to take off the first time, I juse kept lubing and impactering and they spun off!!

mijo_latino · Feb 17, 2006

if you do snap it, you can just go pick some the studs at autozone... My studs were corroded down a bit.

supastang03 · Feb 17, 2006

if you take off the passenger side wheel, and remove the plastic wheel well covers youll have a perfect access to the bolt. this is what i did and it really helped in getting a good angle at torqing the ratchet. try it out, it worked like a charm for me...

soctty7676 · Feb 17, 2006

Wow, these are some great replies! As far as heating the bolts, I just have regular propane, I don't have any MAPP gas. Will that work? Also, how long do you heat the bolts?

Tommorrow morning, I will try the pb blaster/heat/repeat.

Thanks again!

Uncle Meat · Feb 17, 2006

Just remember all you need to know is...

Lefty Lucy, Righty Tighty

Is the car on a lift or are you trying to do this on jack stands?

U.M.

soctty7676 · Feb 17, 2006

Unfortunately, I am using jackstands.

timeless2 · Feb 17, 2006

You are still having issues?
It's tough, but soaking the heck out of it with penetrating lubricant is primary.

Heat helps in some cases, but usually when rust is prominent. Have you tried using the least amount of extensions & swivels possible, as to maximize torque?

I've done every swap with just ramps.

Uncle Meat · Feb 17, 2006

soctty7676 said:
Unfortunately, I am using jackstands.

Yeah... that makes it hard to get the neccessary torque required in order to remove a rusty exhaust nut/bolt!

U.M.

Mike97gt · Feb 17, 2006

soctty7676 said:
Wow, these are some great replies! As far as heating the bolts, I just have regular propane, I don't have any MAPP gas. Will that work? Also, how long do you heat the bolts?

Tommorrow morning, I will try the pb blaster/heat/repeat.

Thanks again!

you can use a propane torch as long as you can get the flame on the nuts. propane will just take a little longer. i heat them untill there about to turn red then try it. you don't need to even get the entire nut. just enough to expand it a little and break the rust bond.

Dan_Soprano · Feb 17, 2006

I had the same problem about a 2 weeks ago when I swapped my stock mid for a prochamber. Ended up soaking it with liquid wrench, let it sit for a few hours, soaked it again and hit it with an impact gun. Came right off. I couldn't believe how hard it was to get with just 5000 miles on the car and no rust/corrosion on the studs. Keep at it!

soctty7676 · Feb 17, 2006

Man this forum is great, I should be able to get this thing off. If I can't I need to sell my Mustang to someone worthy and buy a new VW Bug with a matching sundress....

Both the nut and stud are pretty rusted. I will try the pb blaster, then heat it for about a minute or so, then try again.

I am using a socket to swivel (only using one) to long extension to short extension to 1/2" ratchet. I talked to my tranny guy and he said just take your time (like you guys said) and don't break the stud!

timeless2 · Feb 17, 2006

soctty7676 said:
Man this forum is great, I should be able to get this thing off. If I can't I need to sell my Mustang to someone worthy and buy a new VW Bug with a matching sundress....

But yes, patience, some grunt, and some beer will get it off. You'll do fine.

Please help with mid-pipe removal

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