plz help!intermittent start issues

[import this!]

hello every 1.new to posting butt have been reading and learning for sum time now..im the proud owner of a 94 gt coupe 5.0 ho.butt its killin me!.. ive been experinceing prob after prob!..1 prob was the rpms were jumpin so erratiaclly you could not drive it period.i traced that to the dizy was a worn pip..so i replaced the whole unit with a remaned 1 and that cleared it up.butt 2 days later this prob occurred>>current 1 is really weird though..she just quits when it wants ..sumtimes as soon as you start her other times you can go all over the place b4 she dies..no chuggin or sputterin just rpms drop to 0..and will turn over butt not catch, then if you push it backwards or shake it she starts back up!.. i replaced the fuel pump and filter seemed to fix it butt low and behold she died again..so i tryed igniton module no help..coil no help.ive been tearin the car down every where lookin for a bad or pinched wire or connetor..butt cant find any?..so now ive got it stripped and gutted pretty much everywhere..ive come to think it may be the ccrm..its pretty rusty and seems to have gotten water and corrosion in it..i opened it up to look inside and cleaned it with compressed air to remove dust and rust..it seems to click when it wants and after it clicks the car starts up..butt other times it will not click and she just turns over..theres no spark at all..butt when it does decide to click she fires right up..plz any 1 that has had this prob can you help?im at my wits end..i dont kpow what else to try.. i luv this car butt i cant throw money at it left and right..im so close to throwin in the towel..plz help me save this car

 

[wytstang]

Have you ran any codes?? Remans may or may not have new PIP in them so it may just be the PIP again. Run for codes and see what it says. Parts stores do this for free, just make sure they connect the scanned to the EEC IV on the passenger side strut tower (facing the firewall). They think was use the OBD II ecu's and we don't ALL 5.0 use the EEC IV system period. Also for the scanner to work they need to use a seperate power source tell the guy/gal to use the cig lighter outlet or the one in front of the shifter.

 

[import this!]

thanx for the quick response!butt i forgot to mention she not throwin any codes at all..it was throwin codes for no tach input and pip b4 replacin the dizzy..butt now nothing..its also and auto..trans was rebuilt by mister trans just 2 months ago.they also replaced the pcm and ecm among other things butt it ended up being a prindle switch is what they called it..butt still charged me 2200 can..and ultimatly all that money was spent on a rebuild and new torque converter when oit was a electronic prb..also another note about mister trans is that they told me the aode will suffer with poor performance if they add a shift kit withc i asked for and i asked for a higher stal converter..like 2200 to 2800..they said my car would overheat and perform badly with that aswell..so i got 1800 stall tehy say is stock style.im so frustarted with that company im scared to bring the car back in there even if its sumtin they should replace under my warranty..she still shifts poorly too 2nd to third gear is impossble..she will red line in 2nd and wont shift till you let right off the gas for like 20 to 30 seconds..not much help when your tryin to embarras a ricer or neon..lol

 

[wytstang]

O.K well have you had the TFI module tested? It's located under the MAF you need a 5.5 socket to remove and have a parts store test it (it's free). Ask them to do the test a few times it get it hot. If it passes well I don't know you have your self a E demon on your hands. Take the car back to the shop and have them fix there mistake. All the crap they said about over heating and performing poorly is crap. All the AODE guys here have never complained about their shift kits and converters.

 

[import this!]

well thanx for pointin out the tfi for me.. i will check that out now..is that the little wire in the casting with a plate cover that is right in the air way is the part you mentioned?if so i had assumed that was part of the maf..well anyways i just came back in from tryin to locate this issue again..this time when she started up as soon as i shook the ccrm it died..butt then i unplugged the alternator she started back upo..butt died again..so i plugged the alt back in and she started again..so i sat in the drivers seat and it died again?now wont start again..i was lookin for a pinched or damaged wire everywher butt no luck..it seems to be playin with me..no matter what i touch it either does nothing..or dies and then wont start till i touch sumthin diff..and its been towed in to 2 shops..they cant find nuttin wrong..but like i said b4 once it dies as soon as you move it it will start again.sumtimes you gota push it backwards sumtimes forward or even pushin it will work..so when they tow it or pull it on the flatbed voila she will fire up..so they dont beleive anything is wrong..im at a loss...its my 1st stang ever.ive wanted 1 for almost 15 yrs...now its so dissapointing..and seems to be more trouble then any car i have ever had..also to mention i am sumwhat mechanically inclined and never send any of my cars to the shop b4 with the exception of trans work..that was is a little intimidating when i have to do my work outside because i lack a garage...so plz any 1 with a similar experience could you plz chime in with what your fix was...and thanx again to wytstang..i appreciate very much your input...al with his broke down stang..lol...import this!

 

[toyman]

The TFI module is bolted to the fender well behind the air filter/duct. You need to remove these to gain access. The PIP will not throw a code and the car will just die and initially restart then just die. I believe that the PIP can be tested by a dealer. The AODE will take a shift kit and will perform well. Adding a transmission cooler is always a good idea as heat is almost always the killer for auto transmissions.

 

[wytstang]

The first image that says "Dyna Mod" is a TFI module, 2 5.5 bolts hold it to the fender.

Remove it and have the parts store test it a few times to get it hot. If it passes, I still want to say the PIP is bad as those symptoms are very similar to it failing. Also before reinstalling the TFI module make sure you put more dialectic grease on the under side (the side that mates to the fender). I've heard parts store carry a TFI specific grease so look for it, if you can't find it dialectic grease will work too. Good luck..

 

[import this!]

thanx again to all those tyin to help.and wytstang thanx for the pic..i have changed the tfi twice now one scrap yard part and bought 1 new 1 still no fix..i was told the tfi is called and ignition module though so thats why i wasnt sure what you menat ..butt on to the most recent scenario....ive removed the ignition switch the 1 located under the steering column and have done a continuity test and it seems to function butt because the symptoms are intermittent im still not positive if its workin properly.my thought is this though it may heat up much more when more voltage is applied thru the system and then malfunction i tested it with an ohmmeter though so it wasnt alot of voltage bein applied butt im about to pull the drivers seat out and carpeting up because ive read theres a relay under it for the fuel pump and sumthin else.i still feel theres a wire groundin out sumwhere because it sarts the 1st time everytime then when it quits from bounceing or shakin it wont start till you roll it or bounce it again..ive already gutted the rear interior and the trunk ive pulled the dash and steering coulmn sheilds and stuff so next is the front seats and carpet i guess..ive gotta find sumthin because this is my only means of transportation,,im really perplexed here fellas..im in the realm of thought now that the car is possesed or haunted..p.s the car was in an accident that was rather bad i found out after i bought the car..2 ppl died in it..whoever repaired the car was quite good at hidin the damage..its hard to tell it was in an accident butt once i found out it was the damages became more apparent..my own fault for bein to eager i guess when lookin for my dream ride..lol or at least sumthin that wasclose to it...al....import this!...

 

[xkuntrycowboyx]

just a thought but have your meter ready to test some of that stuff right when she dies on ya man.. before you move or shake it. ?? just a thought.

 

[import this!]

hi all again..thanx for popin in kutrycowboy.. i appreciate all the helpful insights from all.and to kuntrycowboy.i have done what you suggested and when it quits im not gettin any spark and no pulse reference from the spout connector..also theres power at the coil plugin but not from the coil..the hall effect plug also shows power but not flashes just steady on and i thought that it should be flashes like the pulse refernce from the spout..so any other thoughts?im really pullin hair out now!!ive read a number of other ppl have had this same prob or at least the same symptoms..butt after all the time they put into typin what the prob was and things they tried that faile to correct it..they never came back to there post or sites with the final outcome and how they acheived it??so either a number of our beloved cars went to the scrappers or once they fixed it were to happy to return and share the cause..lol..butt im still lookin and deff will post all things i try and hopefully will find the cure on my own or with the help of my fellow stangers and will be sure to post it for others who find themselfs in this particular leaking and sinkin ship.lol..i know sum 1 out there has the answer...thanx again to all whove helped with suggestions ...so tommorow i am headin a couple hrs south to a larger wrecking yard to get another ccrm[multi function box]..[ford dealer had no idea what a ccrm was?]and will post if that cures the headaches..also im pickin up a new ignition switch at the local ford dealer..55 plus tax new..[ccrm is 125 at my local scrappers and i found it for 50 2hrs south of me]

al.....import this!....

 

[Zero_chance]

If it dies when you hit bumps have you checked out the fuel pump reset switch?

 

[import this!]

thanx to all those whove posted..i have checked the inertia\fuel pump shutoff..seems ok and was replaced with a salvage peice.no difference..thanx for tha thought..so i picked up a ccrm or multifunction box..and an ingition switch..i came home and the car started and now wont die??????????????i was hopin it would not start or start and die like usual so i woul know if the ccrm or ig switch was the cure..now it wont die for the life of me????????????????????now im really frustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!....@#$@@#%$%$%!#$~#~@#$>>!@#$%^$%$#@!!..........i dont really wanna throw these parts on till it dies and wont start..
butt the good news is the trip south was worth it for other reasons..i found another 94 gt with the 5spd runin and intact..its got 140 k on the odometer and a aluminum driveshaft..ive wanted to do this swap since buyin my gt its not really what i expected from it..was hopin for more of that hotrod feel and capability..so i asked the price for what i beleive i need and for all the thinhgs i asked for he said 800..sounds like a deal to me what do you guys think???...
my list of what i thought i need is as follows..


trans
bellhousing
flywheel
driveshaft
linkages
clutch pedal
shifter and console
ecm
pcm
.possibly starter??not sure though butt i thought it was the same starter when the changed them to the solenoid on the starter?
.


anything im forgettin guys?..i would like to buy this stuff as soon as i can hopefully will get it put together this winter..depends on the weather here in northern ontario though..lolwell thanx again to all who have had sum input...al...import this!

 

[import this!]

bump..bump..bump..

so i have tryed both the ccrm and the igi switch to no avail..i drove her to town and she quit so i change 1 after the other on the side of the road and nothing!!!!!...now im really lost....butt i was wondering if any 1 knows the relationship of gettin spark and gas..should i have spark if im not gettin gas??..should i get gas if im not sparkin??..i tapped the ig switch and the pump run for 2 secs..and she wanted to fire when i tried..so i tapped it 4 times and she started and sputtered out..so again i tapped 4-5 tim4es and floored the gas pedal while i turned her and she caught .sputtered and coughed then roared to life??????so now im back at thinkin it may be gas realted...back at home i pulled the vac line to the pressure regulator and she still ran fine so i assume that is ok.now im wonderin if the fuel rails could be cloggin up??my filter was real bad when i changed..the air compreesser barly blew thru it...so please guys i need more help...any and all input would be greatly appreciated...thanx..al..imprt this!..

 

[import this!]

import this! back after much headache and money spent.butt finally cured this problem it did turn out to be the dizzy again afterall myself and many others including 2 ford dealership service epartments couldnt figure it out$$$$$$$$butt now that i got her runnin after almost a year ive got way worse problems!!!i will post up a new thread with the new probs today in hopes of sum help from my fellow stangers!!cheers to all and sorry it took so long to post up the answer to the problem butt i just got her runnin a week ago and have been with out a computer for months...thanks again to all those who had insightfull info and encouragement for me in my time of need!!..AL..aka..import this!...:Track:

 

[SROBERTLAW2003]

I had the same problem also, and replaced about everything you stated you have done and it was a relay that is located around the computer. its function was to tell the car when to tell the injectors when to fire. man i wished i knew what the guy told me the name of the relay was. I replaced the fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel relay,control module. computer itself,coil you name it. it all came down to that relay located next to computer.

 

[HISSIN50]

I had the same problem also, and replaced about everything you stated you have done and it was a relay that is located around the computer. its function was to tell the car when to tell the injectors when to fire. man i wished i knew what the guy told me the name of the relay was. I replaced the fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel relay,control module. computer itself,coil you name it. it all came down to that relay located next to computer.

There is no relay that tells the computer when to fire the injectors. If you have a Fox III, I think you are talking about the EEC relay (it's above the EEC in the passenger kick panel on a fox). On 94-95's, it's in the CCRM (in the engine compartment).

If someone thinks the EEC relay is bad (on either a fox III or IV), it takes 10 seconds with a DMM to know for sure.

 

[rickthecanuck]

starting problems

I had the same problems, the car would run fine then just die. RPMs would drop off and the car would not start for about 20 min or so. I changed the fuel pump the ignition module (several times) plugs, wires, coils. no one could figure it out.

I finally found one mechanic that said it was the magnetic pickup in the distributor.
I could not see how it could go bad but I ended up buying the part, pulling the distributor apart and replacing the pickup.

After that the problem was solved. However I did notice one other thing however.

It might have been the magnetic pickup but I also noticed that the connector which was attached to the pickup (and runs out of the dist to connect to the wiring harness) was really corroded on a few connectors. What is strange is that not all of them were corroded, just a few. So now I am wondering if it was just a bad connection, and the heat from the enging would cause it to break connection, and after it cooled it would make contact again?

so basically one of those two things was the culprit. But that is what solved the problem for me.