Popping fuses---NEED HELP

Hey guys. My Underdash Fuse #9 keeps popping, its a 15A fuse that powers what the manual says "Hazard lamps" "Tail lamps" and "Shift lock solenoid" which i assume is for an auto. When it pops i lose my signal lights, and brake lights. I replaced the brake light switch on the pedal, but of course that would be too easy of a fix:rolleyes:.

It doesnt pop instantly, it will work for a while, then pop. I tried to get it to pop in the driveway, but couldnt, but as soon as i pull of out of my driveway and signal, the signal will flash four or five times, then pop almost at the same time i turn the wheel. It seems to pop faster when i tried a 20A fuse.

This all started two drives after i installed my Steeda Quadrant/FWA/Clutch cable. I thought i may have puckered something when under that dash, but couldnt find anything, replaced the brake switch as a precautionary. I ordered a whole new signal switch assembly for a different reason, so im hoping that will cure my problem, if not i guess im wire hunting, which sucks.

Does anyone have any ideas for me? Its sucks being stuck in the driveway because of a stupid wire gremlin:mad:

Jay
 
Do more driveway testing.

Be real sure the brake wires are not catching and shorting at the pedal - it's a common issue.

Otherwise, turn the key on. Hit the brakes 20 times (a random value) to try and pop it. If that doesnt do it, start the car and use the turn signals (each side) 20 times. Then try them while turning the wheel.

If none of this does it, do the above tests while wiggling wiring harnesses. The short is probably intermittant so it can take wiggling it just right to cause the short.

Never use a fuse of a higher amperage than called for. You run the risk of starting a fire (the fuse is not longer the weak point, or fuse, in the circuit. The wiring is).
 
Be real sure the brake wires are not catching and shorting at the pedal - it's a common issue.

I had this exact issue in my '94 GT. It should be a harness directly behind the pedal assembly or thereabouts. Mine was being shorted when the brake and clutch pedals were applied simultaneously.

Your problem may be slightly different, but this is a good place to start.
 
I had this problem to after I put in my Steeda quadrant. A wire in the harness right above the quadrant got a small hole rubbed into it from the quadrant and would ground out.

I did the same thing, pulled tail light assy out, changed bulbs, brake switch, and clutch switch. I just happened to look up at the right angle and saw the shiny spot on the harness.

Good luck
 
Well i did some more poking and prodding, and i can not get it to pop in the driveway, even with the brake on, 4 ways on, cycling the clutch on and off, all while turing back and forth. Did another good look underneath and cant see anything. So i went for a drive and it took a while before it popped, and it happend to be with the right signal on, and the brake, but not turning the wheel, so i put in another fuse and continued, trying the right/brake combo, but couldnt get it to pop again:shrug: this time i was aiming for every pothole and bump, but still nothing.

When i got back, i put a stick on the brake pedal, and turned on the 4 ways, and started my wiggling. Started under the dash and wiggled and moved every wire and connection i could, then worked my way backwards under the carpet as far as i could without removing the seat. Then moved to the trunk, wiggling away, when i got to the trunk light, i wiggled and BAM light went out, but the celebration was short lived, my stick slipped off the pedal, DAMN:rolleyes:

Then i made my way into the engine bay, wiggled every single wire i could in the entire bay, but still nothing, then gave up for today.

So the variables that are still iffy is the singal light switch, which wont be here till next week sometime, and the section of wire between the side of the drivers seat, and where it enters the trunk beside the back seat(didnt have time to pull out inside panel)

Questions: Are the switches on the clutch pedal in this circuit? If so, then i will replace them, as i was doin some good prying when i was trying to get the stock quadrant off:doh:
And
WHat do i do if i cant get it figured out? take it somewhere and pay out the ass for some mechanic to do the same things as me, and still not figure it out?

Sorry for the novel guys, but i like being detailed:nice:
 
=Chern_889;7901527]Then moved to the trunk, wiggling away, when i got to the trunk light, i wiggled and BAM light went out, but the celebration was short lived, my stick slipped off the pedal, DAMN:rolleyes:

What made you dismiss this as the source? Not clear as to why you went from the trunk to the engine bay as stated below.

Then i made my way into the engine bay, wiggled every single wire i could in the entire bay, but still nothing, then gave up for today.

I personally would spend more time in the trunk. Try removing the trunk light bulb and/or switch and see what happens.
 
What made you dismiss this as the source? Not clear as to why you went from the trunk to the engine bay as stated below.


I personally would spend more time in the trunk. Try removing the trunk light bulb and/or switch and see what happens.

1.) Dismissed it as i couldnt get it to pop the fuse, only reason light went out was my prop rod i had on the brake pedal slipped. Then moved to the engine bay, to check the wires for the signal lights.

2.)The trunk light bulb, and switch to turn on the buld, are not in the circuit i am having problems with, Fuse #9 Only controls the hazard lights(signals), Tail lights(not trunk lights) and the shift lock soleniod(which im still not sure about, see above post)


keep it comin
 
Did you look at the wiring at the MF switch? Since you're replacing it anyhow, you might not have. Sounds like this is a good spot to check (the body brake lights go through the MF switch).

If I could not find the issue, assuming one is good with wiring, I'd consider rewiring the circuits from the MF switch rearward.

You were in the engine bay wiggling the wiring for the front parking lights, right?
 
Did you look at the wiring at the MF switch? Since you're replacing it anyhow, you might not have. Sounds like this is a good spot to check (the body brake lights go through the MF switch).

If I could not find the issue, assuming one is good with wiring, I'd consider rewiring the circuits from the MF switch rearward.

You were in the engine bay wiggling the wiring for the front parking lights, right?

By MF i assume you mean the turn signal/wiper switch on the column? and yes, i was wiggling the whole front harness for the lights and signals, im stillgoing to pull out my sidelights and double check. I replaced the lights a few weeks ago, so a wire could possible be pinched, although i can see where the wiring goes into the side lights.
 
By MF i assume you mean the turn signal/wiper switch on the column? and yes, i was wiggling the whole front harness for the lights and signals, im stillgoing to pull out my sidelights and double check. I replaced the lights a few weeks ago, so a wire could possible be pinched, although i can see where the wiring goes into the side lights.

MF switch does equal Multi Function switch, which is the proper name of the turn signal switch.

I'd actually look at the MF switch connector though. Sometimes the connectors overheat and burn (you headlight current passes through the switch and that's a big load). This could lead to an intermittant short, especially after some current has passed through the circuit and heated things up.
 
UPDATE:

Well i replaced the MF switch and checked all the wiring running up the column, found 2 wires that could have been suspect, fix them, but was still popping the same fuse. So i looked underneath the pedals again, and am embarresed that i didnt see it the first 8 times. Where the wires for the brake switch run up and over a metal plate that supports the pedals, it was all chewed and im really surprised it wasnt a hard, constant short. So i fixed the wire, and put some wire loom on it to protect it and all is well. Thanks guys!