Popping / Grinding In Low Speed Turns

Hey guys,

I recently replaced my rear end. I bought a used, 3.55 LSD from a custom shop in the area. Inspected the rear end thoroughly before buying, all of the gears looked great, almost new, and bearings felt good.

I installed the new rear end last weekend along with a new set of tubular control arms (upper and lower) and new bushings in all connections. Filled the rear end with the correct amount of Royal Purple 75W-140 fluid with friction modifier. I took it out for a drive, and the rear end was quiet and felt smooth in straight lines and in turns. However, as I drove it longer and it heated up, it started making slight popping noises in turns and really bad pooping and grinding at low speeds when the wheel is turned (i.e. In parking lots).

I did a little reading, and concluded that it might be the clutches binding, so I added about 2 more oz of friction modifier. Took it to a parking lot and did figure 8s for a while, dead silent.

I drove it around for a while longer, up windy roads and on the freeway and let it heat up. And, once again, when I started making low speed (<20mph) turns, I get a horrible popping / grinding sound and a binding sensation with no improvement from the previous occurrence.

I put the rear end on jack stands and ran it, letting the wheels spin freely. I listened to the differential carefully, everything sounds smooth with no rubbing or grinding and a minor knock from the driveshaft/ U joint.

Anyone had similar experience with an 8.8? I know the grinding/popping can be normal with limited-slips, but I'm beginning to think the problem might not be coming from the clutch pack.

As always, your help and input is appreciated!
 
I'm With mikestang. If you didn't torque the control arms with the wheels level then you have an extreme amount of preload. Couple that with no lube and you have bushings that are literally screaming for mercy.
 
Jack the car up and loosen them. Then either lower the car to the ground if you can fit underneath or use the Jack to simulate the load. Measure the gap between the fender and the tire while it is on the ground. If you can duplicate that you'll be in the ballpark.