Por15 on Drivetrain?

WhiteThunder

New Member
Oct 16, 2005
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Well I'm still on my search to make sure I'm fully prepared for my resto and I had a question. I plan to clean up the bottom of the car and make it last for awhile and I was wondering, has anyone ever used Por15 on the drivetrain?

I know powdercoating is the first choice but I'm trying to do everything myself and it's not practical for me to have to borrow a vehicle to make the long drive to the nearest powdercoater.

So, that said. Anyone done it?


(PS - I'm finally starting to order all my parts.:D)


:SNSign:
 
Check my nickname in my avatar...you've got the right guy.

I sprayed it under the entire bottom of my 81 notchback. Looks beautiful! Cleans up with just a quick spray of water when it's dusty. I also sprayed my front LCA arms after I had new bushings installed. They still look brand new and shiny as hell.

WEAR THICK, LONG INDUSTRIAL GLOVES. (It does not come off your hands easily)

WEAR A RESPERATOR

WEAR EYE GOGGLES, NOT GLASSES, IF YOU SPRAY IT. (It stuck to my contacts and ruined them!!!)

DO NOT SHAKE CAN, STIR ONLY.

It takes a long time to dry, so apply it as the last thing you do that day, go to bed, then continue work the next day.

Anything else you need to know, just ask.
 
Thanks SVT. I'm planning to use it underneath as well and use their bedliner for the wheel wells and the frame rails for a little more durability when I need to jack him up.

25th, don't know where SVT got it but I'm ordering from their website. Only thing that bothers me is you ant get the starter kits in white. Which leads me to my last question for the moment.

SVT, do you know if you can paint over POR 15? I've heard both yes and no. I can't get white and so I was going to go for gray then paint over it for my floor when I do my interior.
 
I hate the stuff and think its junk. It looks soo cheesy when its on the car. Even with the full kit I have had alot of trouble having the stuff stick. I threw all of it into the garbage where it belongs.

As you can tell, Ive had a bad experience with that stuff.
 
I'm not sure if it works better on rust as opposed to non rusted metal. I was going to order Por15 last night but everything I need is around 200 bucks. This stuff isn't cheap, especially if you buy it by the gallon.
 
Thanks SVT. I'm planning to use it underneath as well and use their bedliner for the wheel wells and the frame rails for a little more durability when I need to jack him up.

25th, don't know where SVT got it but I'm ordering from their website. Only thing that bothers me is you ant get the starter kits in white. Which leads me to my last question for the moment.

SVT, do you know if you can paint over POR 15? I've heard both yes and no. I can't get white and so I was going to go for gray then paint over it for my floor when I do my interior.

You're welcome. I bought it at my local paint supplier, but you can buy it online. Yes you can paint over it....follow these steps.

Sand area.

Spray POR15, one coat is all you need. If you want a second coat, wait at least 12 hours between coats.

Scuff POR15 and spray an Etching Primer over it. Let that dry a few hours.

Scuff etching primer, and spray a good Urethane Primer. Let that dry a few hours.

Scuff Urethance Primer, and spray your paint.

These are the steps I used as the can says, and I had no problem with, flaking, lifting, etc.

I hate the stuff and think its junk. It looks soo cheesy when its on the car. Even with the full kit I have had alot of trouble having the stuff stick. I threw all of it into the garbage where it belongs.

As you can tell, Ive had a bad experience with that stuff.

I think it looks damn good. If it didn't stick, you didn't have it prepped correctly.

PIC of LCA's
81notchproject014.webp


Underbody
81notchproject006.webp

81notchproject005.webp
 
Thanks for the pictures SVT. You give me hope for my build. I was supposed to order a gallon of the por-15, the rust reatment and the degreaser tonight but I had some snags on my interior "de-construction". Can't figure out how to remove the back portion of the rear seat without cutting metal.
 
Your welcome. A gallon will do you well. I used 2 or 3 quarts on the underside of the car, the trunk, engine bay, wheel wells, even the inside of the floor under the carpet) Some of it I brushed, because I can't stand the stuff in the air. I also lost about 1/4 of a quart because the lid didn't seal right.

You must place 1 coat of plastic wrap between the lid and can, and make sure you wipe out the access stuff in the lip. If that lid seals to the car, it's junk.
 
Wow, if thats how much you used for all of that I just may get a gallon of black and use a gray primer overtop for my floorpan so I can paint that white. I was wanting black underneath anyways, as well as all the brackets on the interior (under dash and convertible top).

I'm probably gonna have limited spraying capabilities so is there anything I should be wary of in brushing it on? I was thinking of using a foam brush but I'm not sure if bristles would be better than foam.
 
Brushing it one works well, but you will need a lot more POR15 if you brush it rather than spray it. I used a bristle brush, and when it dried, it dried pretty smooth. I haven't tried a foam brush, but that would be something I would want to try in the future. Let me know how that goes for you.
 
What should you get the surface to before applying the POR?

I am ready to do my axle housing out of the car and have wire brushed and chipped and sanded all the loose rust off. Does it still well to slightly rusted metal?

Also..bristle or foam brush? what works best?
 
I usually sponge brush the stuff on and comes out phenomenal I have done brake booster and other little stuff brackets ect....
I'm going to be doing the whole bottom of my fox coupe.I do hear it sticks best to rust,but I have none of that and I have done it before and never flaked peeled or anything like that.Only problem I had was I didn't put a plastic bag between the can and the lid after use.End result-lid would not come apart and had to tear it off never sealing again using what I had to use and throwing rest out.That is what happens when not listening to the Carquest guy when buying.Thank god it wasn't a gallon and it was a pint.With saying that remember a little goes a loooong way with Por-15.A gallon will last you the rest of your life if stored properly.


I have also painted the stuff on far rear quarters behind the tires "where the rubber sticks coming out of burnout hole"rubber then wipes right off.I only did that till I had car painted since it was all primed didn't really bother me to much.

Hope I can be of some assistance before making your final purchase.Good Luck

KJ
 
my cousin works for por-15 and i have used it many times... i have used it on quite a few areas on my car... you would be astonished at how well it actually lays flat even if you brush it on... its beautiful if you spray it ...the key to the success is the prepwork... if you do not use all the steps correctly it will not stick right... you have to use the marine clean, then the metal ready, and finally the por15... anyone that works for por 15 will tell you the same thing, that when it comes to covering rusty areas you dont actually want to remove everything, just clean up the loose stuff and sand it up a bit and thats it... the stuff sticks better if it has a little something to adhere to...hope that helps..

jim
 
I stripped my engine bay and the whole underside down to bare metal and applied "Chassis Saver" (very similar to POR15) with a brush, primed it, then painted it gloss black. Stuff works well.


before I started:
159598381_3HxvF-L.webp


Almost stripped to bare metal:
159598517_TuyCB-L.webp


After 2 coats of Chassis Saver and 2 coats of primer:
164861168_yYjYo-L.webp


Painted gloss black:
165059482_WyDat-L.webp


Everything installed:
238540547_HRrsL-L.webp